The Genius is one of a few La Sportiva models to feature its No Edge technology. That means that what would ordinarily be the edge of the shoe comes rounded right out of the box. Although this design takes a little getting used to, our testers believe it ultimately improves sensitivity and edging performance.
Performance Comparison
The Genius stuck to the rock like glue a beautiful spring day in Sinks Canyon, WY.
Edging
Out of the box, the Genius feels perfectly worn in and project ready. The No Edge rubber shaping doesn't require pinpoint precision to hold. Instead, it molds your toe onto the rock, holding on imperfect placements where other shoes would skitter off.
The sensitivity of the toe also makes it easier to feel and fix an imperfect foot placement. This takes some getting used to, and our testers were skeptical at first because there isn't a sharp edge like we're used to.
The No-Edge technology allowed our tester feel every edge and ripple on this techy, vertical wall at Wild Iris.
Rest assured, after a brief adjustment period, these puppies will stick when you press into precarious micro edges and ripples. This is a tremendous advantage when on-sighting as it will help you push through the moves when you're near your limit. The Genius will make your footwork feel brilliant even when you're pumped stupid and flailing wildly for holds.
Crack Climbing
You wouldn't use a Ferrari to pull a horse trailer, and you shouldn't climb cracks in your sport climbing shoes, but we bet you could.
At the top end of crack climbing isn't tremendously dissimilar to hard sport: both feature lots of tiny edges and brutally small places to place your fingers and toes. In spite of its downturn and the softness of the underfoot platform, the Genius can get it done on both hard sport or cracks.
While not comfortable enough for miles of jamming, the Genius does just fine on steep finger cracks and shorter trad climbs.
Additionally, the rubber at the top of the toe that is meant for toe hooking provides decent protection in small cracks. While the Genius would be entirely appropriate for high-end traditional climbing, it would not be a first choice for easier traditional climbing where a flatter shoe would be a lot more comfortable. For longer days on multi-pitch adventures, we prefer the La Sportiva TC Pro or Butora Altura. The La Sportiva Kataki is also better for single pitch crack projects because it has a low volume toe that can weasel into thinner cracks while edging almost as well as the Genius.
Pockets
You'd have to work hard to find a style of climbing the Genius didn't thrive on, even trees. Pockets are no exception. Built on the Testarossa last, the Genius is aggressively downturned and has a LaspoFlex midsole that extends beyond the toe. This technology means that standing on minuscule edges and in super shallow pockets is even easier.
The Genius is a slightly wider shoe but still manages to focus the weight of your body through a single, exact point: your big toe. This gives it the precision to find and fit into even the small pockets with ease. Nevertheless, a pointier shoe will likely perform a little better for the tiniest pockets.
The soft mid sole and radical down turn are great for climbing through steep roofs.
Sensitivity
From heel to toe, the Genius may be the most sensitive shoe on the market, rivaled only by the Scarpa Chimera. While the Chimera achieves its sensitivity with thin rubber and an extremely soft sole, the Genius uses its No Edge design, which brings your toe closer to the edge of the shoe and the holds you're trying to feel.
With a soft heel and a slightly wide toe box that lets your toes rest in a more natural position, the Genius will let you feel your feet and also every feature of the rock. This sensitivity gives the climber an unparalleled sense of security and confidence in even the most marginal of foot placements. Pushing out of your comfort zone and through the grades has never been easier than in the Genius.
Comfort
The unlined suede upper, wider last, and ample space in the toe box for a comfortable arch in your toes make the Genius exceedingly comfortable right out of the box for such a downturned shoe. Your feet may get a little more fatigued, however, due to the soft midsole that doesn't provide the same support as some other high-performance models.
Though aggressively downturned and moderately asymmetrical, the Genius manages to be wearable on longer climbs or when it's your turn to spot at the boulders (but you should take them off to extend the longevity of these pricey shoes). We sized it a half size up from the unlined La Sportiva Skwama. The Genius will stretch just under a half size during the wear-in period, but not as much as the Skwama.
The offset lacing system lets you dial in the fit and makes for extra room on top of the shoe for effective toe hooking.
Value
Do you love smearing, edges, and bright colors? If the answer is yes, the Genius is the shoe for you. It comes with a whopping price tag that requires a little justification to take the plunge. First, consider the comfort, that works out to 19 bucks a toe. Second, they can definitely up your grade, and getting off the plateau you've been stuck on can be priceless. Third, they're cheaper than a sports car, but they'll make you feel like you're driving one on the rock. They are also remarkably durable, and even with consistent use, they have shown little wear after two months of use.
Conclusion
Whether or not you're a believer (or have yet to permit yourself to be converted, go on test your conviction) in No Edge shoes, the worthiness of the Genius is hard to deny. A fusion of many inspired designs, this model blends the best aspects of some tried and true favorites to create a unique and very complete package. If you aren't quite ready to shell out serious cash for the Geniuses, check out their relative the Skwama, which is a worthy but cheaper option for most styles of climbing.
