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Five Ten Moccasym Review
Cons: Soft, stretch a lot, don't edge well
Bottom line: This is a good choice for long splitter cracks like those found at Indian Creek and Yosemite Valley.
Manufacturer: Five Ten
The Five Ten Moccasym is one of the most comfortable and convenient shoes we tested. Chris Mac has probably logged 600+ days of climbing in about six different pairs. They are just so comfortable and easy to get on and off. These soft and sticky shoes fit well in cracks of all sizes and are the go-to shoe for many Indian Creek climbers. They feel relatively precise when new, but soften over time and work best for people with strong feet. When new, they also tend to leach dye onto your feet so don't be frightened the first time you take them off and see blood-red toes! A classic comfortable shoe for crack climbing, the Moccasyms are an Indian Creek staple. They also work well for gym climbing, all-day climbing, and anytime you want a slipper that is easy to get in and out of. For a more comfortable all rounder with more support, take a look a the Five Ten Quantum
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Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results
Right out of the box, the Moccasyms edge fairly well, however, this doesn't last long. Due to a flat shape and lack of a midsole, these shoes do not edge particularly well. The soft feel of these shoes means that they work better for people with strong feet. Those who are just starting out or who have weak feet may want something stiffer that will help support the foot more. These shoes stretch over time, giving them less of a performance fit and decreasing the edging performance. If you are looking for a shoe to stand on invisible features, try the La Sportiva Genius or the Tenaya Tarifa.
Crack climbing is where these shoes shine. If you have ever climbed at Indian Creek, you will have noticed that a large proportion of climbers there wear this shoe. Why? Several reasons: the flat shape and lack of features on top of the foot (like laces and velcro) make these shoes fit into cracks particularly well.
The soft and sticky rubber grips the inside of cracks and allows your feet to mold into openings of any size. Since the shoes lack laces, you don't have to worry about tearing up the laces as you slide your feet up 100+ feet of a number 1 sized crack. Instead the most you have to worry about it wearing out the rubber on the instep where it rubs against the edge of cracks. The Best Buy Award winning La Sportiva Skwama has one velcro strap near the base of the ankle, and fits in thin cracks like the Moccasyms, but the Skwama provides better edging performance.
Since the Moccasym lacks any downturn, they don't sink into pockets as well as something like the Tenaya Tarifa. Like with edging, these shoes feel relatively precise when right out of the box and mushier and softer after they stretch and wear-in.
Since the Moccasym is soft and without a midsole, they are extremely sensitive. They are also incredibly sticky and work well for smearing when you need to paste your foot to the wall. More modern high-performance shoes like the Editors' Choice Award Winning La Sportiva Genius are designed to offer the sensitivity of the Moccasyms and have impressive edging abilities.
The Moccasym is an extremely convenient and comfortable climbing shoe. Right out of the box they hug your feet just like well, slippers. They are very easy to get on and off, which is nice at the gym, the crag, or even during a hanging belay. They are incredibly comfortable when foot-jamming in cracks, and the flat design makes them comfortable to wear while standing or for longer periods of time.
If you plan to climb splitters at Indian Creek, you can't get a better shoe than this one. This shoe excels at smooth crack climbing. If you like cracks but mostly climb on granite, you may prefer the stiffer and more protective La Sportiva TC Pro or the more versatile La Sportiva Skwama. If you usually climb on rock that involves precise edging, look for something stiffer. Since these shoes are comfortable and easy to take on and off, they are also great for wearing to the gym or for all day climbs when a comfortable shoe is preferable.
These used to be the best value out there when any climbing shoe around $99 was a bargain (and we seem to remember a few years ago they were only 79 or 89 dollars). Now that there are $89 shoes like the Evolv Defy Black, and the price of these has bumped to $125, these have much stronger competition, like the La Sportiva Skwama, which go toe to toe with Moccasyms in crack, and edge way better. However, if you are a crack master, purchasing the right weapon for the job is never a bad idea, and these are completely worth the price.
These shoes are a welcome addition to the quiver of a serious crack climber. Sometimes they're the only shoe that can do the trick in those tough one-inch splitters at Indian Creek. They aren't very supportive, and they don't edge well, but Dean Potter used to rage up El Cap and solo hard pitches in these shoes.
— Matt Bento
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