Five Ten Moccasym Review

Performance Comparison

Edging

Right out of the box, the Moccasyms edge fairly well, however, this doesn't last long. Due to a flat shape and lack of a midsole, these shoes do not edge particularly well. The soft feel of these shoes means that they work better for people with strong feet. Those who are just starting out or who have weak feet may want something stiffer that will help support the foot more. These shoes stretch over time, giving them less of a performance fit and decreasing the edging performance. If you are looking for a shoe to stand on invisible features, try the La Sportiva Genius or the Tenaya Tarifa.

Crack Climbing

Crack climbing is where these shoes shine. If you have ever climbed at Indian Creek, you will have noticed that a large proportion of climbers there wear this shoe. Why? Several reasons: the flat shape and lack of features on top of the foot (like laces and velcro) make these shoes fit into cracks particularly well.

The soft and sticky rubber grips the inside of cracks and allows your feet to mold into openings of any size. Since the shoes lack laces, you don't have to worry about tearing up the laces as you slide your feet up 100+ feet of a number 1 sized crack. Instead the most you have to worry about it wearing out the rubber on the instep where it rubs against the edge of cracks. The Best Buy Award winning La Sportiva Skwama has one velcro strap near the base of the ankle, and fits in thin cracks like the Moccasyms, but the Skwama provides better edging performance.

Pockets

Since the Moccasym lacks any downturn, they don't sink into pockets as well as something like the Tenaya Tarifa. Like with edging, these shoes feel relatively precise when right out of the box and mushier and softer after they stretch and wear-in.

Sensitivity

Since the Moccasym is soft and without a midsole, they are extremely sensitive. They are also incredibly sticky and work well for smearing when you need to paste your foot to the wall. More modern high-performance shoes like the Editors' Choice Award Winning La Sportiva Genius are designed to offer the sensitivity of the Moccasyms and have impressive edging abilities.

Comfort

The Moccasym is an extremely convenient and comfortable climbing shoe. Right out of the box they hug your feet just like…well, slippers. They are very easy to get on and off, which is nice at the gym, the crag, or even during a hanging belay. They are incredibly comfortable when foot-jamming in cracks, and the flat design makes them comfortable to wear while standing or for longer periods of time.

Best Application

If you plan to climb splitters at Indian Creek, you can't get a better shoe than this one. This shoe excels at smooth crack climbing. If you like cracks but mostly climb on granite, you may prefer the stiffer and more protective La Sportiva TC Pro or the more versatile La Sportiva Skwama. If you usually climb on rock that involves precise edging, look for something stiffer. Since these shoes are comfortable and easy to take on and off, they are also great for wearing to the gym or for all day climbs when a comfortable shoe is preferable.

Value

These used to be the best value out there when any climbing shoe around $99 was a bargain (and we seem to remember a few years ago they were only 79 or 89 dollars). Now that there are $89 shoes like the Evolv Defy Black, and the price of these has bumped to $125, these have much stronger competition, like the La Sportiva Skwama, which go toe to toe with Moccasyms in crack, and edge way better. However, if you are a crack master, purchasing the right weapon for the job is never a bad idea, and these are completely worth the price.

Conclusion

These shoes are a welcome addition to the quiver of a serious crack climber. Sometimes they're the only shoe that can do the trick in those tough one-inch splitters at Indian Creek. They aren't very supportive, and they don't edge well, but Dean Potter used to rage up El Cap and solo hard pitches in these shoes.