Five Ten Aleon Review

Performance Comparison

Edging

The single hook-and-loop strap makes taking the Aleon on and off a cinch, but it doesn't provide the same secure fit as a two-strap design or lace-up closure. There is thus a little more lateral play in the forefoot that reduces this shoe's edging performance. The sole of the Aleon is medium stiff, which offers better sensitivity but makes standing on small edges for long periods of time more taxing. Taking these issues into account, we don't consider this shoe very good at edging overall.

Cracks

When sized properly, the Aleon creates a moderate downturn that's great for hooking pockets on steep terrain. Another aspect of that downturn, however, is that it necessitates a curl in the toes. With the toes curled, it is much more painful to jam them inside cracks of any size. That said, if you decide to size the Aleon large, your toes will lay flat and feel substantially more comfortable while crack climbing. With this strategy, this shoe's low-profile toe also makes it pretty effective for thin cracks, while the extra rubber on top supplies additional grip and protection.

Comfort

The Aleon offers near-average levels of comfort. Counting in its favor is the single strap hook-and-loop closure, which combines the relaxed feel of a slipper with the option to crank the shoes down tight for a particularly tricky crux. The medium stiffness of the sole enhances comfort compared to the softest shoes but doesn't provide the same support for longer pitches as many stiffer models. The biggest mark against the Aleon is the strongly asymmetrical shape of the toe. This shape helps the shoe feel more precise, but it's unlikely to fit most people's feet ergonomically.

Steep Terrain

While the asymmetrical shape of the toe harms the comfort of the Aleon, it improves its performance for steep climbing. This shoe is pointier than most, which means you can get more of it inside tiny pockets. The concave sculpting of the underside of the forefoot, along with the moderate downturn of the whole shoe, also enhances your ability to pull with your toes on steeper climbs. Finally, the vertical profile of the toe is also minimal, which lets you sneak it inside narrow slots. All these aspects mean that the Aleon is particularly adept at overhanging climbing.

Sensitivity

Out of the box, this shoe comes with 4.2mm of Stealth C4 rubber paired with a sole of moderate stiffness. With these materials, the Aleon provides moderate sensitivity. Our testers were pleased with their ability to feel some features on smaller holds, but the performance wasn't as impressive as some shoes made with less rubber or more supple midsoles. That said, the Aleon provides better durability and support than the most sensitive models.

Value

Adidas is charging a pretty penny for the Aleon. This doesn't really make sense to us because the Aleon doesn't feel like an ultrahigh-performance shoe. And you don't have to search online very long to find numerous complaints about quality issues like the toe splitting from the sole after only limited. If you can find it on sale, however, the Aleon could still offer a reasonable value.

Conclusion