Evolv Oracle Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Exceptional edging, quick lace closure, comfortable for its sharp downturn, great at toe hooking
Cons: Big toe volume, painful in cracks
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|Pros||Exceptional edging, quick lace closure, comfortable for its sharp downturn, great at toe hooking||Versatile, stiff, durable, comfortable||Extremely precise toe, extra heel sensitivity, comfortable for an aggressive shoe||Comfortable design, respectable edging, low-profile toe, excellent price||Affordable, flat midsole is comfortable all day, well-balanced performance across many areas|
|Cons||Big toe volume, painful in cracks||Expensive, limited sensitivity||Pricey, tall toe box, too narrow for some feet||Mediocre precision, subpar on the steeps, somewhat insensitive||Insensitive, imprecise fit, ineffective design for steep terrain|
|Bottom Line||An ultra-premium shoe with a solid all-around performance at a reasonable price||This stiff shoe is an all-day crack climbing workhorse that also performs well on edges and slabs||An ultra-high-end shoe that could put you on the podium of your climbing competition||Decent overall climbing performance at an affordable price make these a sold choice||An entry-level shoe ideal for beginners that comes at an awesomely low price|
|Rating Categories||Evolv Oracle||La Sportiva Katana...||La Sportiva Solutio...||La Sportiva Finale||La Sportiva Tarantu...|
|Steep Terrain (20%)|
|Specs||Evolv Oracle||La Sportiva Katana...||La Sportiva Solutio...||La Sportiva Finale||La Sportiva Tarantu...|
|Upper||Synthratek VX synthetic||Leather/Lorica||Leather / microfiber||Leather / microfiber||Leather/Synthetic|
|Lining||None||Pacific (forefoot and back)||Pacific, lycra||Unlined||None|
|Rubber Type||TRAX SAS||Vibram XS Edge||Vibram XS Grip2||Vibram XS Edge||FriXion RS|
|Rubber Thickness (millimeters)||4.2 mm||4 mm||4 mm||5 mm||5 mm|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Oracle features a split outsole, meaning the firm black rubber of the heel and forefoot is separated by flexible red rubber at the arch. This reduces strain while your foot is held in a downturned position. The forefoot sole is also made especially stiff to allow you to focus the full strength of your foot into the edge of the shoe. We found this design to be highly effective, which is why the Oracle receives top marks for its edging performance.
The downturn of the Oracle brings your foot into a ninja-like position with toes curled. This position has huge advantages on steep terrain but corresponding disadvantages for crack climbing. Foot and toe jams feel considerably more painful when your toes are curled, and the Oracle's rubber-coated upper does little to relieve this discomfort. This shoe could still be useful for hard crack projects where the crack is too thin to jam any part of your foot inside, but there are many better shoe choices for anything wider.
Downturned shoes are ordinarily less comfortable than their flat-soled brethren. The Oracle bucks this trend to some degree due to a couple of innovative features that enhance its comfort. The most effective might be the "Knuckle Box," which is a molded area of extra space for your curled big toe to nestle inside. This relieves significant pressure on the knuckle that you're usually forced to endure with other aggressive downturn designs. The Oracle also boasts extra rubber on the heel and synthetic upper to pad your foot while heel or toe hooking. Finally, the still sole on the forefoot provides plenty of support for sustained technical sequences. For these reasons, our testers think this is one of the most comfortable high-performance shoes.
While the "Knuckle Box" greatly improves comfort, it also increases the volume of the toe box. That's not a good thing if you're hoping to squeeze the Oracle inside a tiny pocket. In addition, the toebox is also pretty wide horizontally, further limiting the shoe's usefulness for pocket climbing. One feature it does have in its favor is the "Love Bump" — a molded concavity on the underside of the toe that fills dead space and gives you an even better angle for pulling with your toes while pumping up the steeps. Our testers were also pleased with the lasting system because it produced enough downward tension to look their heels in place during tricky heel hooks.
All shoes have to strike a balance between support and sensitivity. The Oracle strikes this balance with some bias toward support. Its stiff sole provides plenty of support, but it simply cannot offer as much sensitivity as a softer design. These shoes are also fitted with 4.2 mm of Trax SAS rubber. This is a little thicker than average and markedly more than some other ultra-sensitive performance shoes. Nevertheless, in many situations, our testers preferred the additional support of the Oracle over the higher sensitivity of other models.
The Oracle is currently Evolv's priciest offering, yet it's still a fair bit cheaper than the top shoes from Scarpa or La Sportiva. Our testers think it can definitely hang with any of those shoes, so we consider it an awesome value for an ultra-performance shoe.
Add the Oracle to the ever-expanding list of outstanding climbing shoes. It features a slew of innovative features that enhance performance and comfort while still being priced for a few dollars less than its closest competitors. Although it's not the best shoe to choose for pockets or cracks, for all other disciplines, it performs excellently.
— Jack Cramer
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