Evolv Addict Review
Cons: Not great for edging, soft
Our Analysis and Test Results
Comparing these shoes to the similar Five Ten Moccasyms reveals some slight differences in performance, mostly related to fit. Our testers felt the Addicts edged a touch better than the Moccs, but the wider, higher volume Moccasyms felt more comfortable to more testers. For a shoe, more versatile and higher performing in cracks of all sizes, have a look at the La Sportiva Kataki. These shoes may appear to be agro down-turn foot binders for sport climbers, but our testers found them to be awesome in thin cracks, and the lace-up design ensures that they stay on your feet.
The Addict edge a smidge better than the Five Ten Moccasyms, but they don't come anywhere close to the edging performance of the La Sportiva Genius or the Butora Acro. This shoe is very soft, and they edge best when sized tight. These days, modern shoe designs like the La Sportiva TC Pro and the Five Ten Quantum offer support and good edging performance without having to size them so tight that they hurt.
Regarding crack climbing, our testers felt that the Addicts performed equally to Moccs. If you have a wide foot, the Moccs feel more comfortable in hand-sized cracks. A slender footed climber would feel more at home in the Addicts, which hug the foot tighter and don't "roll over" on a narrower foot.
Since these shoes don't edge as well as stiffer, downturned shoes, they don't perform very well in pockets. They are slightly pointier that Mocc, but if you're headed to Wyoming or Spain to pull down on limestone pockets, we recommend more aggressive shoe like the La Sportiva Solution or the Scarpa Instinct.
Once they're broken in, the addicts are great for low angle slab climbing. Our testers could smear on holdless friction climbs with ease, but as soon as the angle kicks back and feeling out micro edges, we prefer a shoe that lets us feel the edges and supports our foot as well, like the Editor's Choice Award Winning La Sportiva Kataki, or the less sensitive but supportive La Sportiva TC Pro.
If you've got a narrow, low volume foot, these slippers feel comfy and are easy to put on and pull off, thanks to the leather pull tab on the top of the shoe. The Addicts won't feel comfortable in hand cracks as the Moccasyms if you are a wide footed climber, but on a narrow foot, they won't slide around, saving you from blisters. These shoes are also more difficult to get on a high volume foot but fit more securely than the Moccasyms. The laceless slipper design means there aren't any straps or laces to smash down on the top of your foot when it's in a crack. Our testers agree that velcro straps can be uncomfortable in a crack, but laces are low profile, and we like our shoes to fit securely on long multi-pitch crack climbs. A few of our testers like to wear socks with these shoes on longer climbs.
At $100, these slippers are a bargain, of equal quality to the Five Ten Moccasyms, for $25 less. If you're on a bargain hunt and you want a shoe for technical edging and steep climbing, check out or Best Buy Award Winner, the Butora Acro.
While the Evolv Addicts are a new version of the slipper design, they're not a huge improvement. They suffer from some the same drawbacks as the Moccs: poor edging performance, and very little support. For your next crack climbing road trip, check out our Editors' Choice, the La Sportiva Kataki.
— Matt Bento
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