The Altura is Butora's alternative the popular La Sportiva TC Pro, and while rabid fans of the TC probably won't be switching to these hemp-lined green trad climbing machines, folks who just don't vibe with the TC Pro have a comfortable option for long days on the big stone. These aren't straight-up copies of the TCs, though they might look like it. The Alturas have high top ankle protection, a rand that comes up fairly high for a trad shoe, and these things are as stiff as a board (without actually being board lasted). Like the Best Buy Award Winning Butora Acro, the Altura is available wide (green) and narrow (orange) versions.
Butora Altura Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Comfortable, durable, good edging, great ankle protection in wide cracks
Cons: Long break-in period, can feel insensitive and clunky
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|Pros||Comfortable, durable, good edging, great ankle protection in wide cracks||Comfortable in cracks, low volume toe fits in thin cracks, great edging||Great edging, convenient and secure Velcro closure system||Great precision, aggressive/down turned toe tip, sensitive, great toe and heel hooking, precise fit, comfortable, easy on/off||Incredible sensitivity, great edging, durability|
|Cons||Long break-in period, can feel insensitive and clunky||Heel cup can feel uncomfortable across the achilles, left some testers with sore arches||Not as comfortable in cracks as lace-up models||Not comfortable for all-day climbing, expensive, not the most versatile, hard to fit, single strap broke prematurely||Specalized use, expensive, might be hard to resole|
|Bottom Line||A viable alternative to the TC Pro, for around $30 less.||These shoes are high-performing crack climbing machines.||This shoe is well-performing all arounder.||This shoe is a favorite of many veteran climbers and still feels cutting edge over ten years after its first release.||Employing Sportiva's No Edge concept, this is a sensitive shoe that edges incredibly well.|
|Rating Categories||Butora Altura||La Sportiva Kataki||La Sportiva Otaki||La Sportiva Solution||La Sportiva Futura|
|Specs||Butora Altura||La Sportiva Kataki||La Sportiva Otaki||La Sportiva Solution||La Sportiva Futura|
|Upper||German Hydrovelor Split leather||Suede leather / Microfiber||Leather/ Microfiber||Leather / Lorica||Leather/Synthetic Leather|
|Width Options||Narrow and Wide||Regular||Regular||Regular||Regular|
|Lining||Hemp, mesh, poron foam||Pacific||Pacific||HF in toe box and arch area only||Unlined|
|Rubber Type||Butyl Butora F5||Vibram XS Edge||Vibram XS Edge||Vibram XS Grip 2||Vibram XS Grip2|
|Rubber Thickness (millimeters)||7 mm||4mm||4 mm||4 mm||3mm|
Our Analysis and Test Results
This shoe has plenty of obvious nods to the TC Pro with both its performance and in general appearance, so this review will deal mostly with its advantages and shortcomings in regards to the TC. In general, shoes of this style are decent for edging, great in wide cracks, and have a flat and comfortable fit. If you're climbing very technical single pitches, check out the fantastic La Sportiva Kataki or the Scarpa Instincts. While not as comfy as the Altura, they edge well and are much more sensitive.
The Alturas are stiff, maybe even stiffer than the TC Pros. If sized correctly, you can stand on small edges for a long time, which is perfect for hours of low angle climbing in Yosemite Valley, Tuolumne Meadows, or Squamish. If you're used to a softer shoe, then you're going to have an adjustment period of getting used to trusting small edges with such thick, clunky shoe, but stick with it, because you'll be rewarded with all-day comfort.
Comparing the Altura's edging prowess with the TC Pro is challenging for a couple of reasons. The Altura's hemp lining and additional stiffness make it harder to size correctly than the TCs, and they require a longer break-in period. We know exactly how to size TCs so that they'll stretch just enough for all-day comfort with minimal sacrifice to edging power. After a few months climbing in the Altura, we're still breaking them in, and they're still getting better. Butora uses it's proprietary Neo Fuse sticky rubber, and our testers feel like its a touch softer than the Vibram XS edge used on the TC Pro.
The plush, padded tongue of the Alura offers excellent protection in cracks hand sized and up. The rand is situated higher up on the sides of the shoe than the TC Pro's, and so far we haven't had any delamination issues like we occasionally have with the TCs.
In thin cracks, the Alturas suffer from the same shortcomings as the TC. The high volume toe in comfortable, but it makes the toe too thick for cracks that are tight hands (#1 camalot) or smaller. The La Sportiva Kataki is our favorite pure crack climbing shoe because of its low volume toe, and edging capabilities for when the cracks are so thin you have to use small chips and smears on the face.
We'd shy away from using these shoes for pocketed areas, as we prefer pointier shoes for our pedantic pocket pulling pursuits in places like Wild Iris and Ten Sleep Canyon. If that's what you're into, the pointy, asymmetric La Sportiva Solution and the sensitive Scarpa Drago are more your style, since you'll be able to toe into smaller pockets, plus they're downturned for steeper terrain. Unless the Alturas are super broken-in, they'll feel frustratingly clunky for precision pocket climbing. For this style, something like the La Sportiva Kataki or the Scarpa Instinct is the best comfort/performance compromise.
Ask us again in a year. Seriously, one fan of the Altura says he thinks they've finally broken in after their third resole. While this bids well for the shoe's longevity, it makes them feel insensitive out of the box, and a month later, they're still pretty stiff and clunky, but they're getting better. The break-in time on the TC Pro is shorter, and overall, it feels less stiff and more sensitive. For slabs, it's nice to have a bit of flex in your shoes so you can drop your heels and get lots of rubber on the rock. While the Alturas are starting to soften up, they definitely have not become our go-to slab shoe after a month in. Again, its all about the long game with these shoes, and the long break-in speaks to a long life.
These shoes shine in the comfort metric…eventually. Out of the box, our testers with high arches found the Altura uncomfortable as they molded our tester's feet to their stiff, flat last, and not the other way around. We've heard the same complaints about fresh TC Pros, but they soften up and become comfortable faster than the Alturas. If you size these correctly with your foot flat and your toes just kissing the end of the shoe, they will become very comfortable and great for all day use. The organic hemp lining feels great, and the padding in the tongue is soft, though not as breathable as the TC Pros. Our lead tester wears a US men's 9.5 street shoe and found a size nine about perfect for Alturas.
These shoes are a great choice for trad climbing on granite or sandstone, especially if you enjoy wider cracks, chimneys, and offwidths. Eventually, these shoes feel comfortable for all-day scrambles in the mountains, due to their stiffness, they are all that bad for standing in aiders, not for full-on aid climbing, but good for a half pitch of cheating here and there. If your feet are too wide for the TC Pro, the Altura is a touch wider and available in larger sizes, while the narrow version is narrower than a TC Pro.
These shoes are built like tanks and less expensive than TC Pros. If you don't mind suffering through the long break in period, you'll be rewarded with a very durable shoe that resoles well. Like the Butora Acro, the Alturas are an excellent value, something we really appreciate in an era where most high-end climbing shoes are approaching the $200 mark.
We'll keep climbing in the Alturas, since the more they break in the better they feel, becoming more precise over time as they soften up. We wanted these to feel like less expensive versions of the TCs. They're not, and don't expect the same fit or performance out of the box. We put these side by side with a brand new pair of TCs, and our lead tester could hop on the techiest of faces and pretty much climbed as confidently as he would with a worn-in pair. Not so with the Alturas. They're going to take some time before they start feeling really good. One 5.13-crushing fan of these shoes joked that they really break in around their third resole. Just keep that in mind the first time you put a pair on. After a lengthy intro, they're a great alternative to the TC Pro, especially if you're having trouble finding the right fit with TC, or you want a very durable shoe for guiding or long, easy climbs.
— Matt Bento