First Look Review

Acopa Aztec Review

Acopa Aztec Climbing Shoe
Price:  $124 List
Editors' Rating:   
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Manufacturer:   Acopa


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Our Analysis

Review by:
Jennifer Aengst

Last Updated:
Friday
February 19, 2010

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We bought the Acopa Aztecs to replace our La Sportiva Mythos: we wanted a good all-around shoe, that would work for long trad days. We love how these fit: they were comfortable right away, and didn't require the stretching/breaking in process like the Mythos. Sizing is easy: same as your street size (I wear a street size women's 9 and am wearing USA Womens' 9) and they fit perfectly the first time I wore them. While they are not as soft as the Mythos, I like that they have a slightly stiffer edge along the big toe, which is great for standing on small edges. I also like that these shoes feel durable to me--I think they will last a long time before I need to be resoling them. One dislikes is the lacing system is not as good as the Mythos. Also, the rubber doesn't feel as sticky as my other shoes, so have avoided using them on face climbs. As for application, these are an all around climbing shoe that work for trad, sport, and gym. At $124, these are $6 cheaper than the Mythos.

Jennifer Aengst

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Most recent review: July 23, 2011
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (4.4)

100% of 8 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
10 Total Ratings
5 star: 40%  (4)
4 star: 50%  (5)
3 star: 10%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Climber

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   Jul 23, 2011 - 02:54pm
Rocman · Climber · Reno,NV

Bachar had the best shoedesign,since my foot is EEE wide the toe box fits the best,they are so comfortable its like climbing in Tevas



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Aug 9, 2010 - 08:16am
Andyfin · Climber
Got these for my trip to Yosemite in a size that was very comfortable (very slight pressure on bigtoe when standing up, a size bigger than my normal shoe size).
Probably tried all the shoes in SF REI, but these were the most comfortable for my fairly wide feet. They have a good padding around the foot, the rubber side patch is great when climbing hand/fist sized cracks. The rubber is thick and there is loads of wear - a feature that was not so great on the last slabby runout on the last pitch of Sons of Yesterday. I agree the rubber has not the best friction, but still good.

They are all leather and therefor stretched, so I'd probably get a half size smaller, maybe normal shoe size.

I don't have to take them off all day, but I wouldn't call them precise nor are they any good for edging but for rummaging up 5.10 routes in the valley they were good. For harder stuff I used LaSportiva Barracudas because I have them sized down a bit. I wore the Aztecs when we did the NIAD, comfortable and no problems (as far as shoes were concerned:).

I'm on my second pair of TC Pros and they are almost as comfortable, slightly narrower, better edging, more precise and with a tongue made from breathable material. If you don't want to dish out 170 bucks, go for the Acopas.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Apr 7, 2010 - 05:59pm
gonzo chemist · Climber · Fort Collins, CO

A very well designed shoe. Will stretch about a 1/2 size over time, b/c it made of leather not a synthetic material. So factor that into your sizing. I did have a problem with delamination of the sole. But I think that's just a poor glue-job, not a design flaw. Very comfortable for long climbs. Performs poorly on difficult thin cracks due to the larger profile than something like the Sportiva Mythos, which has a very narrow toe.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Mar 11, 2010 - 12:40am
clockclimb · Climber · Orem, Utah

I have used about a dozen other shoes before this one. This is my favorite by far. Very sticky rubber, precise, and reasonably durable too. Would be very comfortable if my second toe weren't so long. I won't be looking to try any other shoes as long as these are available. Great for all types of rock but really shine on granite.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Feb 20, 2010 - 07:26pm
ron gomez · Climber · fallbrook,ca
Love my Aztecs. My all use shoe, extremely comfortable, can wear em all day on long routes with no foot fatigue or discomfort. I personally love the rubber, it does take some getting use to, but once it hooks up with the rock, it sticks like mad. Love the natural rubber that Acopa uses. So far they have held up in all the seams, no delamination anywhere, hope they continue to make these forever! I recommend them to everyone I talk to about shoes!

Peace



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Feb 20, 2010 - 06:33pm
msiddens · Climber

on my second pair and agree with the others. A great shoe, this shoe was the first that got me behind Acopa. Bought 'em to replace the Mythos and consider them a step up from that. Bought my street shoe and after stretch found them a tad loose/comfy for my liking. Truth be told I bought them for all day cracks. Stepped down a 1/2 below street show and after stretch they are DIALED.



Climber

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   Feb 20, 2010 - 01:15am
le_bruce · Climber · Oakland, CA

Currently on my third resole, best shoe I've owned. Other shoes I've worn for long periods include the Mythos, Splitter, Scarpa Technos. None as good or as comfortable as the Aztec.

The rubber on top might delam, but though it's annoying I've found that this didn't affect performance in the least. Seems like the price has gone up since the first gen?



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Feb 19, 2010 - 09:58pm
Steve L · Climber · SUR

I got these as an all day to shoe to replace my Mythos. I got them at my street size and they were PAINFUL. Did I mention they were PAINFUL? Anyway, after about 10 pitches or so, they molded to my feet perfectly, and are now the best fitting shoe I have owned. The stock rubber was great on Tuolumne granite, but the first time I got them on JTree slab, a quarter sized chunk sheared off underneath the big toe area. I'm going to have Locker throw some C4 or Onyx on them, and they'll be bomber.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Feb 19, 2010 - 06:50pm
locker · Climber · CO

From a Resolers standpoint (Positive Resoles) as well as a "Climber"…

Resolers standpoint:

I found the shoes well made and easy to work on…

The Rubber however wears poorly…



Climbers standpoint:

The Rubber Acopa uses does not wear well on rough rock (Jtree and similar)…

Felt a little "Cushy" for my taste…

Didn't seem to EDGE as well as other rubbers (C4, Onyx, Vibram XSV)…

For my slightly WIDER feet, they were comfortable…

The rubber did however perform WELL in CRACKS…



Once resoled with C4 the shoes were BOMBER!!!…





JUST my OPINION and holds no weight beyond that…



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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