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La Sportiva Mythos Review
Cons: Not the best at edging, can be tricky to size just right
Bottom line: A golden oldie, this is one of the most comfortable shoes out there and makes a great all-day trad climbing shoe.
The Mythos are one of the oldest climbing shoes out there and still one of the best selling. They stand out for just how soft and comfortable they are. The soft unlined leather is cozy the first day you put it on and stretches as the temps increase and your feet swell. The unique lacing system helps keep this snug but overall this is not to be confused with a high performance edging shoe like the La Sportiva Miura or Five Ten Anasazi VCS. It is much better as an all day cragging shoe or just a shoe for someone who values all-day comfort over micro-edging. If you are looking for for an all-day trad shoe with more edging performance, consider the La Sportiva TC Pro.
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Our Analysis and Hands-on Test Results
This is probably the most comfortable shoe on the market. If you want to stand in a shoe all day, this is it. Anyone who has foot issues (such as bone spurs or injuries) should try these. This shoe also excels at cracks as the "flat foot" position and narrow toe help you wiggle your toes in (as opposed to more aggressive-shaped shoes that bunch your toes up). These have a great shape for smearing but it seems like the stickier Vibram XS Grip rubber would be more appropriate than the XS Edge rubber these use.
We had a little trouble sizing mine just because they stretch so much and have a different toe position than most other shoes. I really recommend climbing around on them a lot and erring on the side of too small. They don't edge all that well and over time, they tend to get a little sloppy. If you break a lace, relacing them is a major project.
The price is a little on the expensive side but people who buy this shoe tend to love it and use them forever.
— Chris McNamara
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Most recent review: December 1, 2016
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