The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of outdoor gear

La Sportiva Mythos Review

A golden oldie, this is one of the most comfortable shoes out there and makes a great all-day trad climbing shoe.
La Sportiva Mythos
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Price:  $145 List | $145.00 at REI
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Comfortable, can wear all day, great in crack
Cons:  Not the best at edging, can be tricky to size just right
Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
By Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief  ⋅  Apr 18, 2010
  • Share this article:
72
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#20 of 31
  • Edging - 20% 6
  • Cracks - 20% 9
  • Comfort - 20% 10
  • Pockets - 20% 5
  • Sensitivity - 20% 6

Our Verdict

The Mythos are one of the oldest climbing shoes out there and still one of the best selling. They stand out for just how soft and comfortable they are. The soft unlined leather is cozy the first day you put it on and stretches as the temps increase and your feet swell. The unique lacing system helps keep this snug but overall this is not to be confused with a high performance edging shoe like the La Sportiva Miura or Five Ten Anasazi VCS. It is much better as an all day cragging shoe or just a shoe for someone who values all-day comfort over micro-edging. If you are looking for for an all-day trad shoe with more edging performance, consider the La Sportiva TC Pro.


Compare to Similar Products

 
La Sportiva Mythos
This Product
La Sportiva Mythos
Awards  Editors' Choice Award    
Price $145.00 at REI
Compare at 2 sellers
$175.00 at Backcountry
Compare at 2 sellers
$180.00 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$180.00 at REI
Compare at 3 sellers
$175.00 at Amazon
Compare at 3 sellers
Overall Score Sort Icon
100
0
72
100
0
88
100
0
86
100
0
86
100
0
86
Star Rating
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
Pros Comfortable, can wear all day, great in crackComfortable in cracks, low volume toe fits in thin cracks, great edgingGreat edging, convenient and secure Velcro closure systemGreat precision, aggressive/down turned toe tip, sensitive, great toe and heel hooking, precise fit, comfortable, easy on/offIncredible sensitivity, great edging, durability
Cons Not the best at edging, can be tricky to size just rightHeel cup can feel uncomfortable across the achilles, left some testers with sore archesNot as comfortable in cracks as lace-up modelsNot comfortable for all-day climbing, expensive, not the most versatile, hard to fit, single strap broke prematurelySpecalized use, expensive, might be hard to resole
Bottom Line A golden oldie, this is one of the most comfortable shoes out there and makes a great all-day trad climbing shoe.These shoes are high-performing crack climbing machines.This shoe is well-performing all arounder.This shoe is a favorite of many veteran climbers and still feels cutting edge over ten years after its first release.Employing Sportiva's No Edge concept, this is a sensitive shoe that edges incredibly well.
Rating Categories La Sportiva Mythos La Sportiva Kataki La Sportiva Otaki La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Futura
Edging (20%)
10
0
6
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
Cracks (20%)
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
8
10
0
7
Comfort (20%)
10
0
10
10
0
8
10
0
8
10
0
7
10
0
8
Pockets (20%)
10
0
5
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
10
10
0
9
Sensitivity (20%)
10
0
6
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
10
Specs La Sportiva Mythos La Sportiva Kataki La Sportiva Otaki La Sportiva Solution La Sportiva Futura
Style Lace Lace Velcro Velcro Velcro
Upper Leather Suede leather / Microfiber Leather/ Microfiber Leather / Lorica Leather/Synthetic Leather
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining None Pacific Pacific HF in toe box and arch area only Unlined
Rubber Type Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Edge Vibram XS Grip 2 Vibram XS Grip2
Rubber Thickness (millimeters) 4mm 4mm 4 mm 4 mm 3mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

Performance Comparison



Likes


This is probably the most comfortable shoe on the market. If you want to stand in a shoe all day, this is it. Anyone who has foot issues (such as bone spurs or injuries) should try these. This shoe also excels at cracks as the "flat foot" position and narrow toe help you wiggle your toes in (as opposed to more aggressive-shaped shoes that bunch your toes up). These have a great shape for smearing but it seems like the stickier Vibram XS Grip rubber would be more appropriate than the XS Edge rubber these use.

Dislikes


We had a little trouble sizing mine just because they stretch so much and have a different toe position than most other shoes. I really recommend climbing around on them a lot and erring on the side of too small. They don't edge all that well and over time, they tend to get a little sloppy. If you break a lace, relacing them is a major project.

Value


The price is a little on the expensive side but people who buy this shoe tend to love it and use them forever.


Chris McNamara