Black Diamond Momentum - Kid's Review
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Black Diamond Momentum - Kid's
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|Pros||Breathable knit, comfortable fit, good edging||Adjustable heel strap, breathability, single pull adjustment, very comfortable||Superb edging, great crack shoe, great on steep rock||Good price, comfortable, easy on/off||Soft microfiber upper, EVA heel cushion, affordable, lightweight|
|Cons||No heel adjustment, knit doesn't fair well in excessive crack climbing||Fabric is less abrasion resistant than synthetic or real leather, metal D-rings can cause pressure points and abrasion to straps||Lacks comfort for all day climbing, laces a bit time-consuming||Single lace tension strap can wear out quickly, adjustable heel sacrifices heel hooking rubber||Thin toe rand, poor at edging|
|Bottom Line||The comfortable kid's model is a new option with good edging performance and great breathability||One of the best available, all-around comfortable shoes, that performs well for most applications including cracks, slab, and face||The aggressive downturned toe, combined with a supportive last, makes this shoe shine on vertical face and overhanging rock as well as cracks and technical slab||A good basic shoe that does just about everything well, but doesn’t excel in any one thing in particular||A comfortable shoe, great for beginners and casual climbers alike, with good performance at a great price|
|Rating Categories||Black Diamond Momen...||Evolv Venga||Evolv Ashima||La Sportiva Stickit||Butora Brava|
|Specs||Black Diamond Momen...||Evolv Venga||Evolv Ashima||La Sportiva Stickit||Butora Brava|
|Style||Velcro slipper||Velcro slipper||Lace-up||Velcro slipper||Velcro slipper|
|Upper||Engineered knit||Polyester Mesh||Leather||Leather||Synthetic|
|Lining||Micro fabric||Agion Antimicrobial||Unlined||Unlined||Unlined|
|Rubber Type||NeoFriction||TRAX SAS||TRAX High Friction||Frixion RS||Butyl Butora F5|
|Rubber Thickness||4.3 mm||4.2 mm||4.2 mm||3 mm||4 mm|
Our Analysis and Test Results
Black Diamond hasn't exactly entered the kids' climbing shoe market and blown its competition away. The performance is good on face and slab, but they lack the steep climbing ability of some other elite kid's shoes, and the fabric upper makes it a poor choice for those who do a lot of crack climbing.
Black Diamond did a great job of making a kid's shoe that can edge well. Assuming the shoe fits well (slightly wider) and is sized right, it shines on small holds due to the slightly stiffer midsole and the Neo Friction outsole. Sure, some higher-priced performance-based shoes outperform the Momentum, but at twice the price investment, that shouldn't come as a surprise.
This shoe can work well for crack climbing. It has the stiffest sole of the group tested, a nice wide toe box, and fabric that does a decent job of padding the foot, but there is a caveat. The knit uppers don't hold up to being stuffed in cracks over and over without getting a little fuzzy, but the occasional crack won't pose any significant problems.
Although this shoe is wider than most of the others tested, the toes narrow in such a way that it ends up being a relatively pointy shoe. That, combined with its stiffer sole, makes this a good choice for those vertical routes where you are on your toes, but the flat last holds back the performance when the pockets get steep.
This shoe has a relatively stiff 4.3mm sole that doesn't allow for much sensation on the smaller holds, especially for the smaller lighter climbers. If sensitivity is important, other options have a similar shape and style but a much softer, more sensitive sole.
The knit uppers, microfiber footbed, wide toe box and flat last make this shoe super comfortable. We heard some reports that the knit could rub the bare-foot, but we didn't have those problems. The breathable knit keeps feet dry, and the comfortable flat last is excellent for long sessions on the rock. Although the shoe is the widest in the lot, it isn't the highest volume. The top of the forefoot is quite low profile, and the knit fits snug and feels great, almost sock-like. We recommend sizing up one full size for a good fit.
This shoe is best used as an all-around gym shoe and also works really well as a moderate outdoor cragging shoe.
While it is true that it's the most expensive of the flat lasted kids climbing shoes, it maintains a decent value if edging and/or gym climbing are your top priorities. Features unique to this shoe, like the knit top, add breathability. Durability is in question since this knit hasn't been put through the wringer, but time will tell, and it seems to be more durable than one may think.
The Black Diamond Momentum is the kind of shoe that will work for most kids. For those who are looking to seek out lots of crack climbing or those that are working overhanging routes, we would recommend looking towards more specialized shoes, but for the average kid, these shoes will do the trick.
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