Black Diamond Momentum - Kid's Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Breathable knit, comfortable fit, good edging
Cons: No heel adjustment, knit doesn't fair well in excessive crack climbing
Manufacturer: Black Diamond
Our Verdict
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Black Diamond Momentum - Kid's | |||||
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| Awards |  |  | |||
| Price | $49.88 at Amazon Compare at 2 sellers | $88.13 at Amazon Compare at 2 sellers | $54.95 at Backcountry Compare at 2 sellers | $54.95 at Backcountry Compare at 2 sellers | $48.00 at Backcountry Compare at 2 sellers |
Overall Score  |
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| Pros | Breathable knit, comfortable fit, good edging | Superb edging, great crack shoe, great on steep rock | Adjustable heel strap, breathability, single pull adjustment | Durable, comfortable, High quality construction | Good price, comfort, easy on/off |
| Cons | No heel adjustment, knit doesn't fair well in excessive crack climbing | Lacks comfort for all day climbing | Fabric is less abrasion resistant than synthetic or real leather | Not great on small holds, runs quite large | Single lace tension strap can wear out quickly, adjustable heel sacrifices heel hooking rubber |
| Bottom Line | If you are looking for an incredibly breathable shoe with best in class edging performance, this may be your shoe | An all around powerhouse, this shoe can do just about anything well, from steep sport routes and boulders to techy slabs and cracks | A great kids shoe, packed with a ton of great features that help it perform well in almost every type of terrain | The Piki is one of the more durable shoes in our roundup as well as being comfortable and a decent performer | This all-around shoe has good performance on beginner to intermediate climbing terrain at a great price |
| Rating Categories | Momentum - Kid's | Evolv Ashima | Evolv Venga | Scarpa Piki | La Sportiva Stickit |
| Edging (20%) | |||||
| Cracks (20%) | |||||
| Comfort (20%) | |||||
| Pockets (20%) | |||||
| Sensitivity (20%) | |||||
| Specs | Momentum - Kid's | Evolv Ashima | Evolv Venga | Scarpa Piki | La Sportiva Stickit |
| Style | Velcro slipper | Lace-up | Velcro slipper | Velcro slipper | Velcro slipper |
| Upper | Engineered knit | Leather | Polyester Mesh | Synthetic | Leather |
| Width Options | None | None | None | None | None |
| Lining | Micro fabric | Unlined | Agion Antimicrobial | Unlined | Unlined |
| Rubber Type | NeoFriction | TRAX High Friction | TRAX SAS | Vision | Frixion RS |
| Rubber Thickness | 4.3 mm | 4.2 mm | 4.2 mm | 4 mm | 3 mm |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Black Diamond hasn't exactly entered the market and blown its competition away. The performance is good on face and slab, but they lack the steep climbing ability of some other elite kid's shoes, and the fabric upper make it a poor choice for those who do a lot of crack climbing.
Performance Comparison
Edging
Black Diamond did a great job of making a kid's shoe that can edge well. Assuming the shoe fits well (slightly wider) and is sized right, it shines on small holds due to the slightly stiffer midsole and the Neo Friction outsole. Sure, some higher-priced performance-based shoes outperform the Momentum, but at twice the price investment, that shouldn't come as a surprise.
Crack Climbing
This shoe can work well for crack climbing, having the stiffest sole of the group tested, a nice wide toe box, and the fabric does a decent job of padding the foot, but there is a caveat. The knit uppers can't take being stuffed in cracks over and over without getting a little fuzzy, but the occasional crack won't pose any significant problems.
Pockets
Although this shoe is wider than most of the others tested, the toes narrow in such a way that it ends up being a relatively pointy shoe. That, combined with its stiffer sole, makes this a good choice for those vertical routes where you are on your toes, but the flat last holds back the performance when the pockets get steep.
Sensitivity
This shoe has a relatively stiff 4.3mm sole that doesn't allow much for much sensation on the smaller holds, especially for the smaller lighter climbers. If sensitivity is important, other options have a similar shape and style but a much softer, more sensitive sole.
Comfort
The knit uppers, microfiber footbed, wide toe box and flat last make this shoe super comfortable. We heard some reports that the knit could rub the bare-foot, but we didn't have those problems. The breathable knit keeps feet dry, and the comfortable flat last is excellent for long sessions on the rock. Although the shoe is the widest in the lot, it isn't the highest volume. The top of the forefoot is quite low profile, and the knit fits snug and feels great, almost sock-like. We recommend sizing up one full size for a good fit.
This shoe is best used as an all-around gym shoe and also works really well as a moderate outdoor cragging shoe.
Value
While it is true that it's the most expensive of the flat lasted kids climbing shoes, it maintains a decent value if edging and/or gym climbing are your top priorities. Features unique to this shoe, like the knit top, add breathability. Durability is in question since this knit hasn't been put through the wringer, but time will tell, and it seems to be more durable than one may think.
Conclusion
The new Black Diamond Momentum is the kind of shoe that will work for most kids. For those who are looking to seek out lots of crack climbing or those that are working overhanging routes, we would recommend looking towards more specialized shoes, but for the average kid, these shoes will do the trick.
— Adam Paashaus