Mammut Revelation Review
Cons: Not the most durable, could be lighter, middle mark fades quickly, a bit stiff
Our Analysis and Test Results
While we enjoyed climbing with this rope, we took it on a week-long alpine climbing trip to the Bugaboos where we tested it head to head with the Petzl Volta 9.2mm, trading ropes between two parties on successive climbing days, and found that it was outperformed in most ways by the Volta. Like most Mammut ropes, it feels thinner than the 9.2mm diameter listed, and is slick right out of the package. The dry treatment works well, but seemed to wear off the sheath quite quickly climbing on abrasive granite — within a couple days. It is a bit stiff, but not overly so, and while it is a light rope, it is only barely lighter than the 9.5mm Mammut Infinity, and far less durable. It can be bought in lengths from 60-80m, and can also be purchased in a "Protect" version, which includes dry treatment only on the sheath, and not in the core as the Dry version does.
The Revelation Dry feels and handles much like other Mammut ropes. It is a bit stiffer than the super soft and supple Petzl or Sterling ropes, and so is slightly more difficult to manipulate when trying to bend it through a belay or rappel device, although not enough to be a concern. It starts out super slick from the dry treatment, but soon enough becomes rougher feeling as the slickness wears off with use. The thinness of the rope makes it slide through belay devices super easily, and overall it handles as well as you would expect from a top-quality climbing rope.
Compared to other Mammut ropes that we have used, and in particular the super durable Mammut Infinity Dry, we found that this rope is not as durable, so it will last you a lot longer if you use it in low abrasion situations and avoid tons of sport climbing on it. The sheath proportion percentage is 36%, which is not a small number, but is less than the more bomber all-around 9.5mm ropes.
Considering the fact that it has a lower percentage of sheath fibers, and it is thinner overall, there is no doubt that this sheath is also thinner than the thicker ropes in the table above. After a week of climbing on abrasive rock, but not subjecting it to repeated falls, we found that this rope had fuzzed up a lot more than the rope we were testing it against. We also felt like the dry treatment had pretty much worn off the sheath, and noticed that the middle marker was fading very quickly.
While it is a skinny 9.2mm in diameter, the Revelation weighs a surprising 57 g/m, which makes it 3 g/m heavier than the similarly thick Petzl Volta, and 5 g/m heavier than the 9.0 and 8.9mm options in this review. The fact is, this rope is not actually super light compared to its competition, and so the benefit that you are gaining by bringing it along compared to the far more durable Infinity, which weighs 59 g/m, is very little. The fact that this rope doesn't save you all that much weight while losing a fair bit of durability means that it will only provide good value if used in the perfect, low abuse, situations.
While we only took a few falls on this rope during our testing period, they felt perfectly fine to us, and were neither overly hard or super soft and springy. The 8.3kN fall force and the 31% dynamic elongation figures are right in line with the average climbing rope, and don't present any sort of an outlier, leading us to expect the soft catches that we received. As a thin rope, it will stretch a tad bit farther when seconding or top-roping than most thicker ropes, but this is normal and the difference is negligible. Overall, you can rest assured that there is nothing to worry about when it comes to falling on this rope.
A 60m length of this rope will run you $260 retail, while you can expect to pay $300 for a 70m. This is the exact same price as the Infinity Dry, but due to our findings that this rope offers significantly less durability, and likely less life span unless you are only using it on snow and ice, we feel that it isn't the best value purchase you can make.
The Mammut Revelation Dry is a thinner dry treated line that is best used for alpine climbing and long multi-pitch routes. While it handles nicely and has a tightly woven sheath, our testing revealed it to be less durable than the competition, and unfortunately, it doesn't offer much in terms of weight savings over longer lasting 9.5mm alternatives. While we feel like it is a good rope, compared to the competition it is not the first one that we would recommend buying.
— McKenzie Long
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