The Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry is one of two "Unicore" constructed rope in this review (see the description below). While we like Beal's Unicore Joker rope and are impressed with the suppleness of that line, this was not the case with the Curve. It is extremely stiff, similar to a static line in feel, which made feeding it out and clipping a chore. On the other hand, and weirdly somehow, this rope has one of the highest elongations. The catches are soft, but when top roping on the line there is just too much stretch. If you are looking for a great all-around rope, we much preferred our Editors' Choice winner, the Mammut Infinity, and if you are looking for a rope specifically for top-roping, check out our Top Pick for that, the Black Diamond 9.9mm
Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry Review
Cons: Very stiff, poor clipping action
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Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry
|Price||$159.95 at Amazon||$259.95 at Backcountry||$243.95 at Backcountry||$249.95 at Amazon|
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|$254.00 at REI|
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|Pros||Soft catches||Skinny for its diameter, durable, great catch, smooth handling||Durable, excellent feel and handle, soft catches||Light, durable, super soft and supple handle||Great handling, durable|
|Cons||Very stiff, poor clipping action||Slightly stiff, middle mark wears off quickly||Pricey||Not durable enough for heavy duty sport climbing, a lot of stretch when seconding||Heavy for the diameter, high impact force rating|
|Bottom Line||A stiff rope that is not great for top roping.||The top-performing do-everything rope that is also a crowd favorite||One of the best ropes you can buy, striking a perfect balance between low weight and durability.||The perfect light and skinny rope for climbing high above the ground||A great rope for advanced sport climbing.|
|Rating Categories||Curve Unicore Supereverdry||Mammut Infinity||Sterling Evolution Helix||Petzl Volta||Maxim Pinnacle|
|Specs||Curve Unicore...||Mammut Infinity||Sterling Evolution...||Petzl Volta||Maxim Pinnacle|
|Diameter||9.8 mm||9.5 mm||9.5 mm||9.2 mm||9.5 mm|
|Weight (g/m)||64 g/m||59 g/m||59 g/m||55 g/m||61 g/m|
|Certified Use||Single||Single||Single||Single, Half and Twin||Single|
|UIAA Fall Rating||8||8-9||7||6||7|
|Impact Force||8 kN||8.4 kN||8.9 kN||8.6 kN||10.3 kN|
|Static Elongation % (in use)||9.4||6.5||7.2||7.5||5|
|Dynamic Elongation % (first fall)||37||30||31.9||33||26|
|Sheath Proportion %||Unicore||40||41||42||36|
|Dry Coating Option||SuperEverdry sheath||Mammut's Dry Treatment||DryXP||Duratec Dry||Endura Dry 2x treatment|
|Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option||Middle mark||Bi-Pattern or Middle Mark||Middle Mark and Bi-Color Option||Middle Mark||Bi-pattern option|
|Lengths Available||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||40m, 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m. DryXP: 60m, 70m, 80m||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||60m, 70m|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry uses "Unicore" technology in its construction. This process bonds the sheath to core, which eliminates sheath slippage and keeps the two bonded together even if the sheath is cut or torn. This rope is 9.8 mm in diameter and weighs 64 g/m. It's rated for 8 falls with an 8 kN impact force rating and 9.4% static elongation.
We often poll a group of people when testing gear, as many of our ratings are subjective, and as the saying goes, one person's garbage is another's treasure. However, we were unanimous in our dislike of the way this rope handled. Over ten people tried out this rope, and we all found it stiff, difficult to feed through a GriGri or other belay device quickly, and unpleasant to clip. Compared to our Top Pick for Sport Climbing, the Maxim Pinnacle, it felt like a static rope rather than a dynamic one.
We took some whippers on this line and were prepared to be jarred due to the handling issues, but we were surprised that they felt quite soft for such a stiff rope. This rope has an 8 kN impact force rating and a 9.4% static elongation. While we weren't able to really tell the difference between an 8 and say, an 8.5 or 9 kN rating in the field (so many other factors determine the "softness" of a catch), we could tell that there was a lot of elongation, particularly when top roping. If you've ever been on a top rope with no slack in the line, weighted the rope and then felt like you still fell a couple of feet, that was probably due to a larger static elongation. This is great for soft catches on lead, but can be dangerous or even scary for a seconder, particularly if there are obstacles on a climb that you don't want to hit, like a block or slab.
This rope is one of the heaviest ones in this review. It weighs 64 g/m, and it's not the "Unicore" technology that makes this rope heavy, as the standard Curve rope also weighs 64 g/m. Obviously, a skinnier rope will weigh less per meter, so if you are trying to cut some weight then check out a 9.5 or smaller rope, like the Beal Joker or the Sterling Fusion Nano IX. Our Top Pick for a Workhorse Rope, the Sterling Evolution Velocity, is also a 9.8 mm rope and it weighs 62 g/m, saving you about a quarter of a pound on a 60 m rope.
In one sense, this rope is very durable, because you'll never want to use it! Kidding aside, we forced ourselves to take it out and put over 60 pitches on it, hoping that it would soften up a little a least (that didn't happen). It didn't get a lot of surface wear on the sheath either, so that is a definite plus. In fact, it was one of the ropes in the best shape after our testing process, except for the middle marker, which quickly faded off and is difficult to detect now.
This rope retails for $260 in the 60 m "Unicore" and "Supereverdry" treatments, which makes it one of the more expensive lines in this review. You can buy our Best Buy winner, the Beal Booster III, for about $50 less, and the Black Diamond 9.9 mm is only $150.
We were excited to try out the Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry, but boy did it disappoint. We can't confirm if it's the "Unicore" construction that makes it so stiff since we didn't test the regular Curve rope, but this one was just too difficult to handle.
— Cam McKenzie Ring