Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry Review
Cons: Very stiff, poor clipping action
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry uses "Unicore" technology in its construction. This process bonds the sheath to core, which eliminates sheath slippage and keeps the two bonded together even if the sheath is cut or torn. This rope is 9.8 mm in diameter and weighs 64 g/m. It's rated for 8 falls with an 8 kN impact force rating and 9.4% static elongation.
We often poll a group of people when testing gear, as many of our ratings are subjective, and as the saying goes, one person's garbage is another's treasure. However, we were unanimous in our dislike of the way this rope handled. Over ten people tried out this rope, and we all found it stiff, difficult to feed through a GriGri or other belay device quickly, and unpleasant to clip. Compared to our Top Pick for Sport Climbing, the Maxim Pinnacle, it felt like a static rope rather than a dynamic one.
We took some whippers on this line and were prepared to be jarred due to the handling issues, but we were surprised that they felt quite soft for such a stiff rope. This rope has an 8 kN impact force rating and a 9.4% static elongation. While we weren't able to really tell the difference between an 8 and say, an 8.5 or 9 kN rating in the field (so many other factors determine the "softness" of a catch), we could tell that there was a lot of elongation, particularly when top roping. If you've ever been on a top rope with no slack in the line, weighted the rope and then felt like you still fell a couple of feet, that was probably due to a larger static elongation. This is great for soft catches on lead, but can be dangerous or even scary for a seconder, particularly if there are obstacles on a climb that you don't want to hit, like a block or slab.
This rope is one of the heaviest ones in this review. It weighs 64 g/m, and it's not the "Unicore" technology that makes this rope heavy, as the standard Curve rope also weighs 64 g/m. Obviously, a skinnier rope will weigh less per meter, so if you are trying to cut some weight then check out a 9.5 or smaller rope, like the Beal Joker or the Sterling Fusion Nano IX.
In one sense, this rope is very durable, because you'll never want to use it! Kidding aside, we forced ourselves to take it out and put over 60 pitches on it, hoping that it would soften up a little a least (that didn't happen). It didn't get a lot of surface wear on the sheath either, so that is a definite plus. In fact, it was one of the ropes in the best shape after our testing process, except for the middle marker, which quickly faded off and is difficult to detect now.
This rope is one of the more expensive lines in this review, but not one of the top-performing.
We were excited to try out the Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry, but boy did it disappoint. We can't confirm if it's the "Unicore" construction that makes it so stiff since we didn't test the regular Curve rope, but this one was just too difficult to handle.
— Cam McKenzie Ring