Edelrid Eagle Light Review
Cons: Heavier than other ropes of the same diameter, high impact force rating
Our Analysis and Test Results
An all-around rope with excellent handling, the Edelrid Eagle Light is a close competitor to our Editors' Choice winner.
With a 9.5 mm diameter and 62 g/m weight, we consider the Eagle Light to be part of the all-around rope category. However, this is 4 g/m heavier than the Mammut Infinity which has an identical diameter. That slight difference equates to nearly 10 ounces over the course of a 70 meter length. The Eagle Light weighs the same as the 9.8mm Sterling Velocity and only one gram per meter less than the much thicker Sterling Marathon Pro at 10.1mm, proving that for its size, it is not particularly lightweight.
At the conclusion of our review, we noticed that all of our award winners coincidentally have an impact force rating between 8.5 - 8.8kN. This leads us to believe that perhaps this range is where our testers find the perfect catch. The Eagle Light is quite far from this Goldilocks range at 9.3 kN, and is the second highest in our test, followed only by the super stiff New England Alex Honnold Signature Glider at 9.5 kN.
However, that being said, we had no qualms whatsoever with the catch of the Eagle Light. We bought it sport climbing in Kalymnos, Greece, and took many a whipper while tufa-wrangling, and never had any complaints about the catch of this rope. This is perhaps an illustration of the fact that catch is very difficult to objectively compare, especially since many factors, such as your belayer, play just as important of a role in providing a soft and comfortable catch.
Handling is the category where the Eagle Light champions. It is a smooth, supple, and flexible cord. All interactions with this rope are pleasant: tying in, clipping, even at a desperate crux, as well as belaying, pulling, and coiling. This is the category where it beats out the Mammut Infinity. While the Infinity has decent handling, and the smooth handling lasts for quite a while with the Dry version of that rope, the Eagle Light is noticeably svelte, enough so to earn a higher score. We attribute this, in part, to the slightly thinner proportion of sheath. Where the Infinity is made of 40% sheath, the Eagle Light is made with 36% sheath. The trade-off here is that the thicker sheath also tends to mean increased durability, so the Eagle Light has less sheath between the core and rough rock edges.
The Edelrid website claims there are three coatings applied to this rope that assist with durability and handling: Pro Shield finish for optimal performance, Dry Shield finish for outstanding dirt and water resistance, and Thermo Shield treatment for perfect handling. While we aren't sure exactly what goes into these proprietary coatings, we do find that the Eagle Light is decently water resistant for an acceptable amount of time, similar to other ropes with dry coatings, and it resists dirt and abrasion quite well when the rope is new. As we mentioned above, the sheath is thinner in proportion to the diameter of the rope than on the Infinity, which leads us to believe that it will not last quite as long.
This rope is of the do-anything diameter. It is just as at home at the sport crag as it is in the mountains. This is the ideal style and size of rope if you are only going to own just one.
This rope leans towards the expensive end of the spectrum. It is not as wallet friendly as the Best Buy winning Sterling Evolution Velocity or as cheap as the New England Alex Honnold Glider. Instead it is more on par with the Petzl Volta in terms of price, yet it is still less expensive than the unique Mammut Sensor. Overall, it is about average in price for a high-performance rope, and since this is an all-around diameter, we think you will get an acceptable amount of use out of it before it needs to be retired.
Our overall impression is that we love this rope! It is graceful and smooth when handling and presents no obvious user frustrations. It is fairly light, of a versatile diameter, and extremely flexible. It was a close contender for our Editors' Choice award, but lost a couple of points to the Mammut Infinity, which manages to be lighter weight and more durable at the same diameter.
Other Versions and Accessories
This rope is sold in 50, 60, 70, and 80 meter increments. It is also sold as a set from Edelrid with a Mega Jul Belay Kit. It does not come in a bi-pattern option.
— McKenzie Long