Edelrid Boa Pro Dry Review
Cons: Stiffer and not as supple as others, heavy
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Edelrid Boa Pro Dry
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|$149.95 at REI|
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|$130.00 at Backcountry|
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|Pros||Durable sheath, Bluesign certified, lap coiled for easy initial uncoiling||Durable sheath, supple feel, soft catches, saves some weight over thicker workhorses||Durable, excellent feel and handle, soft catches||Light, durable, super soft and supple handle||Soft catches, low impact force rating, durable|
|Cons||Stiffer and not as supple as others, heavy||Middle marker wears out quickly, still heavier than thinner ropes||Pricey||Not durable enough for heavy duty sport climbing, a lot of stretch when seconding||A little too stretchy for top roping, stiff|
|Bottom Line||A thicker rope that will surely get the job done with few complaints, but which isn’t as compelling or as supple as its competition||This rope is a winner due to its superior handling, durability, and excellent catches||One of the best ropes you can buy, striking a perfect balance between low weight and durability||The perfect light and skinny rope for climbing high above the ground||An affordable and good choice for single pitch trad climbs|
|Rating Categories||Edelrid Boa Pro Dry||Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla...||Sterling Helix||Petzl Volta||Beal Booster III|
|Specs||Edelrid Boa Pro Dry||Mammut 9.5 Crag Cla...||Sterling Helix||Petzl Volta||Beal Booster III|
|Diameter||9.8 mm||9.5 mm||9.5 mm||9.2 mm||9.7 mm|
|Weight (g/m)||62 g/m||59 g/m||59 g/m||55 g/m||61 g/m|
|Certified Use||Single||Single||Single||Single, Half and Twin||Single|
|UIAA Fall Rating||10||7||7||6||8|
|Impact Force||8.9 kN||8.8 kN||8.9 kN||8.6 kN||7.3 kN|
|Static Elongation % (in use)||8.3||8||7.2||7.5||9.7|
|Dynamic Elongation % (first fall)||34||33||31.9||33||38|
|Sheath Proportion %||39||40||41||42||42|
|Dry Coating Option||Pro Dry||Mammut Dry Treatment||DryXP||Duratec Dry||Dry Cover|
|Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option||Middle mark||Middle mark||Middle Mark and Bi-Color Option||Middle Mark||Middle mark|
|Lengths Available||60m, 70m||60m, 70m, 80m||40m, 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m. DryXP: 60m, 70m, 80m||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||60m, 70m|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Edelrid Boa Pro Dry is a 9.8mm thick rope that comes in either 60m or 70m lengths. It makes up the upper end of Edelrid's rope lineup in terms of thickness, although if you want something fatter, they still offer a couple of 10.0mm options as well. It comes either Dry Treated, which is what we tested, or in a standard, non-dry treated version. You can also buy the Boa Eco if you choose, which uses more environmentally friendly dry treatments, and is also made out of the ends of other fiber reels so that there is no waste, but expect to pay extra for this version.
Compared to the other workhorse competition, the Boa was not our favorite. We should say that we actually do enjoy using it, but that the other 9.7 and 9.8mm options that we've compared it against simply perform better, and are also more affordable. If you have a bead on some Edelrid deals or are simply loyal to a fault, this is a solid and durable rope that will serve you just fine. But if you are shopping the field, then our Top Pick for Workhorse Ropes handles a lot better and is a bit less expensive, while our Best Bang for the Buck winner is also a workhorse that can save you a solid chunk of change over this rope.
Ropes certainly run the gamut between super soft and squishy versus firmer and less pliable, and to some degree, handling is a personal preference. That said, we found this rope to be a bit less enjoyable and functional in our hands than others we compared it against directly. Considering it has a dry coating applied to the outside, we didn't find it to be especially slippery or smooth. We like how it comes lap coiled with the end fed through a hole in the packaging that simply requires you to pull the end continuously through the hole in order to flake it out for the first time. However, in general this rope isn't super flexible, and we found that once twists and kinks found their way into the rope, it was hard to get them out. The inherent stiffness and the propensity to stay a bit kinked, bent, and twisted, meant that this rope often gave us troubles as we belayed with it, such that we short-roped our buddies more than we would have liked, and more than they deserved. The thick gauge of the cord also contributes to this effect, as a thicker rope means more friction in the belay device, making it slightly harder to quickly and easily feed out slack, regardless of which kind of device you are using. If you are a beginner, then this may be a good thing and make your belays slightly safer, but most experienced climbers will prefer a rope that handles and belays a bit more smoothly.
Over our test period, which took place over the course of four months and included well over 200 pitches of climbing, we feel that this rope has held up quite well, and that fact combined with the overall thickness of the rope leads us to believe that it is indeed a durable rope. The sheath is woven in a standard 2x2 pattern that doesn't feel quite as tight to us as on some other ropes, and of course, after that many pitches, we are starting to see some light abrasion and some fuzziness creeping up in places, but this is common amongst all climbing ropes that have been used, especially for sport climbing. The sheath constitutes 39% of the fibers of this rope, and considering it is fairly thick, that means a lot of sheath to protect those all-important core fibers. In general, thicker ropes tend to be more durable, and of course, those that are dry treated also serve to improve the durability and longevity. As long as you treat this rope well, and it doesn't end up accidentally core shot, we think you will be more than happy with the durability and lifespan.
This rope weighs in at 62g/m, which ties it as the heaviest rope in this review. If you are to extend that weight outwards to a 70m cord, you are looking at about 9.57 lbs. While it is heavier than the rest, it is also right in line with the other thicker ropes we've tested, those that are also 9.8mm or 9.7mm, so there is no disadvantage to this cord specifically if you want a rope with this diameter. For comparison sake, you can save about half a pound by choosing a 9.5 mm rope instead, which for some may seem like a reasonable amount of savings, and for others might not be worth worrying about.
We've fallen on this rope many times, and certainly can't remember the feeling that we weren't receiving a soft catch. Since what makes up a soft catch is so subjective, and also has a lot to do with the weight and skill of the belayer, it can be handy to look at the statistics as well. It's elongation percentages — 8.3% static and 34% dynamic — indicate that it should be one of the stretchiest ropes on the market, but our real-world experience didn't exactly back this up. On the contrary, we found it fairly easy to suck the slack out and give a nice and tight belay while top-roping, something that isn't usually possible with extra stretchy or bouncy ropes. It's fall force rating — 8.9kN — is slightly on the high side, but in our real-world experience, we didn't notice this translating into a catch that wasn't soft.
Retail price for this rope is roughly average for a higher-end 9.5mm rope, and a bit high compared to the other similar workhorses we compared it against. Considering that its performance is merely average and adequate according to our comparative testing, we can't see a solid reason to spend extra money, when you could have a better rope for the same amount, or potentially much less. For this reason, we aren't sure that this rope presents a great value.
The Edelrid Boa Pro Dry is a thick and durable workhorse rope that handles way more like a minivan than a sports car. It is a bit stiffer than most ropes we've tested, and combined with its thickness, makes belaying a bit more of a struggle. While we honestly think this rope works just fine for what it is, we think there are more compelling options available.
— Cam McKenzie Ring