The Edelrid Pro Dry is a 9.8 mm rope that handles and catches well, but not exceptionally so. It feels very supple initially but stiffens up a bit with use. It also got very dirty, noticeably more so than many other ropes in this review, even despite the dry coating, which usually helps protects a rope from taking on too much dirt. We noticed a lot of sheath fuzz as well by the end of testing. For a great overall rope that doesn't soak up the dirt, check out our Editors' Choice winner, the Mammut Infinity.
Edelrid Boa Pro Dry Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Not too expensive, available in a bi-pattern weave
Cons: Only average catch and handling with poor durability
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Edelrid Boa Pro Dry
|Price||$219.95 at Backcountry|
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|$259.95 at Backcountry||$243.95 at Backcountry|
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|$129.95 at Backcountry|
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|$254.00 at REI|
|Pros||Not too expensive, available in a bi-pattern weave||Skinny for its diameter, durable, great catch, smooth handling||Durable, excellent feel and handle, soft catches||Light, durable, super soft and supple handle||Great handling, durable|
|Cons||Only average catch and handling with poor durability||Slightly stiff, middle mark wears off quickly||Pricey||Not durable enough for heavy duty sport climbing, a lot of stretch when seconding||Heavy for the diameter, high impact force rating|
|Bottom Line||A good rope for those not looking to spend too much.||The top-performing do-everything rope that is also a crowd favorite||One of the best ropes you can buy, striking a perfect balance between low weight and durability.||The perfect light and skinny rope for climbing high above the ground||A great rope for advanced sport climbing.|
|Rating Categories||Edelrid Boa Pro Dry||Mammut Infinity||Sterling Evolution Helix||Petzl Volta||Maxim Pinnacle|
|Specs||Edelrid Boa Pro Dry||Mammut Infinity||Sterling Evolution...||Petzl Volta||Maxim Pinnacle|
|Diameter||9.8 mm||9.5 mm||9.5 mm||9.2 mm||9.5 mm|
|Weight (g/m)||63 g/m||59 g/m||59 g/m||55 g/m||61 g/m|
|Certified Use||Single||Single||Single||Single, Half and Twin||Single|
|UIAA Fall Rating||10||8-9||7||6||7|
|Impact Force||8.9 kN||8.4 kN||8.9 kN||8.6 kN||10.3 kN|
|Static Elongation % (in use)||8.3||6.5||7.2||7.5||5|
|Dynamic Elongation % (first fall)||34||30||31.9||33||26|
|Sheath Proportion %||39||40||41||42||36|
|Dry Coating Option||Pro Dry||Mammut's Dry Treatment||DryXP||Duratec Dry||Endura Dry 2x treatment|
|Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option||Middle mark||Bi-Pattern or Middle Mark||Middle Mark and Bi-Color Option||Middle Mark||Bi-pattern option|
|Lengths Available||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||40m, 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m. DryXP: 60m, 70m, 80m||50m, 60m, 70m, 80m||60m, 70m|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Edelrid Pro Dry 9.8 mm weighs 63 g/m and is rated for 10 falls. It is available in a wide variety of options, including a bi-pattern weave, standard or dry coated, and the new "Eco" version, which uses leftover yarns from previous productions. You can also purchase 200 meters of it, should you need that long a rope!
We were impressed by the hand feel of this rope when we first opened it. It felt soft and silky, was easy to feed, and not too kinky. Then we used it a bunch, and it stopped feeling quite so smooth. Some ropes tend to stiffen up with use, and this felt like one of them. It was nowhere near as stiff as the Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry, but it wasn't as easy to clip with and feed out slack as our Top Pick for Sport Climbing, the Maxim Pinnacle.
The numbers on this rope suggest that it should have a nice and soft catch (8.9 kN impact force and 34% dynamic elongation), but it didn't feel noticeably different than many of the other ropes in this review. This rope does have the highest fall rating (10) of all the models that we tested. That means that it can withstand 10 Factor 1.77 drop tests before failure, which is impressive (all of the others range between 6 and 8). That being said, most climbers are never going to put even one fall of that magnitude on a rope, and most manufacturers recommend retiring your rope regardless if you ever do experience such a harsh fall.
This line weighs 63 g/m, which is similar to most of the other 9.8 or 9.9 lines in this review. If you want to save a few ounces and don't mind a skinnier rope, the Mammut Infinity and Petzl Arial are lighter and will weigh about half a pound less in a 60 m length.
We had to give this rope a relatively low score for durability. The sheath was showing quite a bit of fuzz after eight days of climbing, and it was particularly dirty, without us using it anywhere that we didn't use the other lines in this review.
This rope retails for $220 in a 60m dry version and only $150 for a non-dry. This makes it fairly affordable when compared to some of the $260 and up models out there. We did prefer the $210 Beal Booster III, our Best Buy winner, over this model, as it showed less wear than this one.
The Edelrid Pro Dry is not a bad rope, but it just didn't stand out enough in any one category or for a particular application to win an award.
— Cam McKenzie Ring