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DMM Wallnut Review

DMM Wallnut
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Price:  $12 List | $7.87 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Fit irregular rock types well, durable, was one of the better nuts in more parallel cracks
Cons:  Difficult to clean, needs one more smaller size
Manufacturer:   DMM
By Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Dec 13, 2009
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The Skinny

DMM Wallnuts look different than most other Climbing Nuts they feature a small groove running vertically up one side of their head. This groove helps them excel at irregular rock types such as limestone and crystallized granite. The groove also makes the nuts more stable, helping them seat better and making them less prone to being pulled out by rope drag or while climbing past them. According to DMM, the groove also allows the nut to be placed half in, half out of the rock, a scary thought that we never tested. This same groove does make them harder to clean than other models only the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut was harder. DMM Wallnuts are also known to be extremely durable, a result of hot forging the heads of the smaller size nuts. Wallnuts have a larger curve than most, making them among the best we reviewed at fitting into parallel cracks.

If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze.


Our Analysis and Test Results

Likes


DMM Wallnuts fit a variety of cracks well. They, along with Metolius Curve Nuts, perform better than others when cracks are less constricting and more straight-sided. This results from a more aggressive curve than is typical, allowing the Wallnut to cam into the placement. Wallnuts have a distinct notch in the main gripping side of the nut's head. This allows them to be placed more securely in irregular rock types. It also helps set them more effectively and keep them from accidentally popping out. Wallnuts have hot forged heads in their smaller sizes that makes them among the most durable, along with BD Stoppers. Wallnuts are made with a tough cable and will stand up to years of abuse. Wallnuts also feature anodized heads to help with size selection. Wallnuts and the rest of the DMM/Wild Country nut family all have the same color scheme, making them easily interchangeable. Wallnuts have two very different axes for placement. Although we stuck with the classic orientation, they do have excellent taper in the other, front-to-back profile. Wallnuts have a reputation for being heavy but we found that they were lighter than average, debunking that myth.

Dislikes


Wallnuts didn't fit pin scars or flares as well as other models we tested. The notch also can make Wallnuts difficult to clean, giving about the same difficulty as Metolius Curve Nuts and more difficult than Black Diamond Stoppers or Wild Country Rocks on a Wire. Also, one size smaller would be nice. But you can combine them with Peenuts or Superlight Rocks that share the same color scheme.

Best Application


DMM Wallnuts fit a wide range of rock and crack types well but they excel in irregular or heavily textured stone such as that at Smith Rocks, Maple Canyon and J-Tree. Wallnuts were among the best performing nuts in parallel sided cracks. Wallnuts are expensive but very durable. They place easily and placements are average to assess. They are a more difficult to clean than most of the nuts we tested.

Value


DMM Wallnuts are in the middle with respect to price. People often climbing on textured rock in traditional areas will certainly enjoy the benefit of these nuts. You get a decent size run and good overlap. These nuts will last a long time. Someone willing pay a little extra, hoping to get years out of their investment, will be happy with this Welsh produced passive protection.


Ian Nicholson