The new Petzl Djinn straight gate carabiner is designed to be "rugged for crag climbing." They are one of the heavier models that we tested for this updated review, and while they work great on a quickdraw, overall they are a little too heavy for traditional climbing. That said, the large basket and keylock design make it a good choice for racking your nuts or slings, or for setting up a top-rope anchor that will get some wear. If you are starting your trad rack from scratch, pick up a couple of these carabiners, but choose something lighter like the Black Diamond Oz Carabiner for the rest of your set.
Petzl Djinn Straight Gate Review
Compare prices at 3 resellers Pros: Snag-free keylock design, large size easy to handle
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Petzl Djinn Straight Gate is a cold-forged carabiner with a keylock design for its solid gate. Gate opening = 24 mm wide, weight = 45 g (1.6 oz).
Ease of Unclipping
The Djinn's keylock design means that there is no notch in the nose to snag on your rope or a bolt. This really comes into play when cleaning routes on steep terrain, whether it's an overhanging sport route or a roof crack. This biner is also a great choice for racking your nuts on. You can easily unclip it from the placed nut without it snagging on the wire.
Ease of Clipping
The Petzl Djinn straight gate carabiner has a similar clipping action to the Petzl Spirit Straight Gate; fast and snappy, though a little bit creakier. It's also one of the bigger biners that we tested, and in particular our testers with larger hands found it very easy to clip. There is a slight indentation in the gate, which your thumb or finger sinks into, eliminating any sliding around on the gate and making clipping that much easier. (The Spirit has a similar, but smaller, indentation that doesn't seem to affect clipping much either way).
Ease of Handling
The Petzl Djinn straight gate earned mixed reviews in this category. Our testers found the Djinn easy to handle, thanks to its large size. But this model is also wider along the spine than most of the other ones that we tested, and too many of them on a rack or harness started to feel clunky and take up too much space. This is not much concern if you are only bring 12 quickdraws up a sport route, but when you have a double set of gear and draws, a narrower carabiner like the CAMP Photon Wire Straight Gate or Wild Country Helium is more efficient.
How Many Ropes Fit
This product was one of the top performers in this metric. It has a deep basket and a 24 mm wide opening. It was able to hold multiple 10 mm rope anchor points and the gate could still open completely.
Rope Pull Smoothness
This was another top-scoring category for the Petzl Djinn straight gate. Our testers found it easy to pull a rope through this carabiner, as it has a wide rope bearing surface, unlike some smaller biners like the Black Diamond Oz or the CAMP Nano 22 Carabiner. This also results in less wear for the rope, particularly in a fall. The Petzl Djinn straight gate would be a good choice to use in a top-rope anchor setup.
This carabiner's rugged design, large size, and wide rope bearing surface come with a hefty weight. At 45 grams, it is one of the heavier products that we tested, and weighs twice as much as the Camp Nano 22. Twenty Djinns weigh two pounds, which might not seem like much if you are sport climbing and have them on a set of draws, but is much too heavy to be a realistic racking option for traditional climbing.
Petzl designed its new Djinn carabiners with sport climbing in mind, and that is where it excels. Our testers did like this carabiner for racking their nuts and to use for top rope anchors, and a few of them on your harness won't make too much of a weight difference. But if "light" and "fast" are your middle names, you'll want to avoid the Djinn.
Petzl has priced the Djinn slightly lower than the Spirit, and considering that it will probably last a long time thanks to its beefy construction, you'll be getting a lot for your money with this model.
Petzl is notoriously frugal in its non-locking carabiner department. Though they produce 10 different kinds of locking biners, up until they added the Djinn they had only three other non-lockers available. Of course, when one of those is the Spirit, you might not really need a large line of options. Really, Petzl has just created competition for itself with the new Djinn. It's heavier than the Spirit, but burlier and less expensive, and both are excellent carabiners for sport climbing.
— Cam McKenzie Ring