Petzl Ange L Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Keylock wiregate has no notch, easy to handle, large rope-bearing surface
Cons: Heavy, expensive, single "wiregate" takes some getting used to
Compare to Similar Products
Petzl Ange L
|Price||$12.95 at Backcountry|
Compare at 2 sellers
|$7.95 at Backcountry|
Compare at 3 sellers
|$13.95 at Backcountry|
Compare at 3 sellers
|$16.50 at Amazon||$13.95 at Backcountry|
|Pros||Keylock wiregate has no notch, easy to handle, large rope-bearing surface||Full-sized, easy to clip, low price, low weight||Key-locking nose design, easy gate action, large size||Recessed notch in nose, great clipping action, easy to handle||Easy clipping and unclipping, keylock design, lightweight for medium size biner|
|Cons||Heavy, expensive, single "wiregate" takes some getting used to||Has a notch in the nose, gates sometimes get sticky over time||Pricey, heavy compared to competition||Not the cheapest, not the lightest, crotch is slightly narrow for accommodating wide slings||Bent spine sacrifices strength|
|Bottom Line||Heavy for a trad rack but nice keylocking gate||A very affordable carabiner that is also one of the easiest to use and won’t cost you anything on the scale||Provides very simple clipping and unclipping action, and feels great in the hands||An ergonomic and smooth clipping carabiner that also has a keylocking nose design for the best overall wiregate function||The Camp Dyon is an easy handling, lightweight 'biner that is a true all-arounder|
|Rating Categories||Petzl Ange L||CAMP Photon Wire||Helium 3||DMM Alpha Trad||CAMP USA Dyon|
|Gate Clearance (20%)|
|Specs||Petzl Ange L||CAMP Photon Wire||Helium 3||DMM Alpha Trad||CAMP USA Dyon|
|Manufacturer Weight (g)||34g||30g||38g||36g||33g|
|Gate Closed (kN)||22||22||24||24||21|
|Gate Open (kN)||10||9||10||9||11|
|Gate Clearance (mm)||26||26||27||25||26|
|Forging Method||Not Specified||Cold||Hot||Hot||Not Specified|
Our Analysis and Test Results
If you've never used the Ange L before, it might take a little getting used to when it comes time to clip it. The length of the gate that you push the rope against (2.5 cm approximately) is about .5 cm shorter than most other carabiners, and a full cm shorter than the CAMP Photon Wire. This might not seem like much, but it does require you to be more precise, and it makes clipping two ropes at once a bit of a challenge.
When it comes to unclipping, the keylock nose is nice and snag-free. The shape of the basket and nose is also fairly flat, as opposed to super deep, so when holding the gate open, it is very easy to slide the rope straight out of the opening. The keylocking nose makes it an excellent option for use on slings or racking nuts as a result, and it is also easy to unclip a rope from.
This carabiner weighs in at 34g per L size, which is slightly heavier than most of the full-sized carabiners we've tested, but not egregiously so. There are also a few full-sized options that are heavier, so the weight isn't out of line with normal. The S version of this carabiner is slightly lighter (28 grams), but also smaller. If you are trying to lighten up your rack, the smaller size is for sure the way to go.
With two loops of ropes in, we could open the gate all of the way, but once the third one got in there, it impeded the opening a little. While the actual length of the gate is small, the gate clearance is still on the larger side (26 mm).
The Ange L is a hair smaller than full-size, but similar in size to Petzl's Spirit carabiner, which is a top choice in our quickdraw review. So, if you are used to the size of the Spirit, the Ange won't feel much different. They are large enough to still operate with gloves on, and there is a hole in the other end of the keylock notch to push out any snow or muck that gets in the gate.
Like most keylocking wiregate carabiner, the Ange L is on the expensive side. It's certainly a well-made and "beefier" carabiner and should last a long time; however, you can save a lot of money by going with options that have notches and hooks on the nose, or by choosing a super small and ultralight version instead.
There's no mistaking the look of the Petzl Ange L, and it has a similar feel to the Petzl Spirit carabiners, which we love. However, the things we love about the Spirits don't translate as well to the traditional climbing world. The limited color choices don't work well for racking, and the small gate makes clipping a little awkward. They are still a great carabiner but probably best used as a quickdraw or on your slings.
— Cam McKenzie Ring