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Unlike some other climbing manufacturers, Petzl keeps their carabiner line fairly slim. There's the Spirit and the Djinn, both with bar gates, and then the Ange, which is their only wiregate model. The Ange is available in L and S, with the L being a full-size (and heavier) options and the S a smaller (and lighter) choice. We chose to test the L in our review group, and while we like some things about it, including the keylock design, it wasn't our favorite trad-focused carabiner. It's on the heavy side, is only available in two colors (making it less suitable for racking cams), and the single wiregate wasn't as nice to clip. It works ok as part of their Finesse quickdraw system or on a shoulder-length sling.
A very affordable carabiner that is also one of the easiest to use and won’t cost you anything on the scale
Provides very simple clipping and unclipping action, and feels great in the hands
An affordable option for racking your camming devices
The ultralight climber’s dream carabiner: lightweight and tiny, yet full strength
Rating Categories
Petzl Ange L
CAMP Photon Wire
Wild Country Helium...
Trango Phase Carabiner
Black Diamond MiniWire
Clipping(25%)
8.0
9.0
10.0
6.0
5.0
Unclipping(20%)
9.0
8.0
9.0
6.0
5.0
Weight(20%)
6.0
8.0
5.0
8.0
10.0
Gate Clearance(20%)
8.0
9.0
8.0
7.0
6.0
Handling(15%)
8.0
9.0
9.0
6.0
7.0
Specs
Petzl Ange L
CAMP Photon Wire
Wild Country Helium...
Trango Phase Carabiner
Black Diamond MiniWire
Manufacturer Weight (g)
34g
30g
38g
30g
23g
Gate Closed (kN)
22
22
24
24
20
Sideways (kN)
7
8
7
8
7
Gate Open (kN)
10
9
10
7
7
Gate Clearance (mm)
26
26
27
23
21
Forging Method
Not Specified
Cold
Hot
Not Specified
Hot
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Our Analysis and Test Results
The Petzl Ange L weighs 34 grams and has a 26 mm gate opening. This carabiner uses Petzl's unique “MonoFil” keylock design. There is a single “wire” for the gate (it's thicker than other wiregates) that fits into a notch in the nose. Note that there is also an Ange S in production (28 grams) that is slightly smaller than the L. The L is available in blue and dark gray only.
Performance Comparison
The Ange L is seen here in its usual configuration, as part of the Finesse quickdraw from Petzl. It's not the lightest carabiner option out there and not the best option for racking your cams either, but if you like the clipping action on the single wiregate (which is also a keylock design), then you might like this one for your trad slings and draws.
Credit: Scott Ring
Clipping
If you've never used the Ange L before, it might take a little getting used to when it comes time to clip it. The length of the gate that you push the rope against (2.5 cm approximately) is about .5 cm shorter than most other carabiners, and a full cm shorter than the CAMP Photon Wire. This might not seem like much, but it does require you to be more precise, and it makes clipping two ropes at once a bit of a challenge.
Unclipping
When it comes to unclipping, the keylock nose is nice and snag-free. The shape of the basket and nose is also fairly flat, as opposed to super deep, so when holding the gate open, it is very easy to slide the rope straight out of the opening. The keylocking nose makes it an excellent option for use on slings or racking nuts as a result, and it is also easy to unclip a rope from.
The single wiregate on this model latches in a slot in the nose. This makes it easier to retrieve nuts and unclip from slings and bolts.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring
Weight
This carabiner weighs in at 34g per L size, which is slightly heavier than most of the full-sized carabiners we've tested, but not egregiously so. There are also a few full-sized options that are heavier, so the weight isn't out of line with normal. The S version of this carabiner is slightly lighter (28 grams), but also smaller. If you are trying to lighten up your rack, the smaller size is for sure the way to go.
These carabiners work best as part of an alpine draw setup due to their lack of color options.
Credit: Scott Ring
Gate Clearance
With two loops of ropes in, we could open the gate all of the way, but once the third one got in there, it impeded the opening a little. While the actual length of the gate is small, the gate clearance is still on the larger side (26 mm).
While the gate length is rather short, the gate opening is still wide and this carabiner can accommodate several ropes easily.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring
Handling
The Ange L is a hair smaller than full-size, but similar in size to Petzl's Spirit carabiner, which is a top choice in our quickdraw review. So, if you are used to the size of the Spirit, the Ange won't feel much different. They are large enough to still operate with gloves on, and there is a hole in the other end of the keylock notch to push out any snow or muck that gets in the gate.
The Ange (left) is a hair smaller than the Helium (middle) or Photon Wire (right). This might not be noticeable if you are used to other Petzl carabiners, but it is something to consider if you plan to climb ice or big walls.
Credit: Cam McKenzie Ring
Value
Like most keylocking wiregate carabiner, the Ange L is on the expensive side. It's certainly a well-made and “beefier” carabiner and should last a long time; however, you can save a lot of money by going with options that have notches and hooks on the nose, or by choosing a super small and ultralight version instead.
Conclusion
There's no mistaking the look of the Petzl Ange L, and it has a similar feel to the Petzl Spirit carabiners, which we love. However, the things we love about the Spirits don't translate as well to the traditional climbing world. The limited color choices don't work well for racking, and the small gate makes clipping a little awkward. They are still a great carabiner but probably best used as a quickdraw or on your slings.
