Petzl Ange L Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: Keylock wiregate has no notch, easy to handle, large rope-bearing surface
Cons: Heavy, expensive, single "wiregate" takes some getting used to
Manufacturer: Petzl
Our Verdict
Compare to Similar Products
 This Product
Petzl Ange L | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Awards |  |  |  | | |
| Price | $12.95 at REI Compare at 2 sellers | $7.95 at REI Compare at 3 sellers | $13.95 at REI Compare at 3 sellers | $5.21 at Backcountry Compare at 3 sellers | $5.95 at Backcountry Compare at 2 sellers |
Overall Score  |
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| Star Rating | |||||
| Pros | Keylock wiregate has no notch, easy to handle, large rope-bearing surface | Full-sized, easy to clip, low price, low weight | Key-locking nose design, easy gate action, large size | Great price, slim profile, comes in eight different colors | Very light, inexpensive, small shape |
| Cons | Heavy, expensive, single "wiregate" takes some getting used to | Has a notch in the nose, gates sometimes get sticky over time | Pricey, heavy compared to competition | Other options are lighter, a little on the small side, exposed notch in the gate | Not the easiest to clip, exposed notch on nose, can be hard to handle with gloves on |
| Bottom Line | If you love all things Petzl and are looking for a wiregate carabiner, the Ange L (and smaller S) are the only options, but they're not our favorite | While not perfect, still the most impressive combination of the winning attributes – full size, low weight, low price | This great carabiner is among the largest and hands down the easiest to use, regardless of hand size | This inexpensive carabiner provides a great value and matches up well with your cams | A tiny and lightweight carabiner that will help you shave ounces from your rack, but may also be a bit harder to use |
| Rating Categories | Petzl Ange L | CAMP Photon Wire | Wild Country Helium 3 | Trango Phase Carabiner | Black Diamond MiniWire |
| Clipping (25%) | |||||
| Unclipping (20%) | |||||
| Weight (20%) | |||||
| Gate Clearance (20%) | |||||
| Handling (15%) | |||||
| Specs | Petzl Ange L | CAMP Photon Wire | Wild Country Helium 3 | Trango Phase Carabiner | Black Diamond MiniWire |
| Manufacturer Weight (g) | 34g | 30g | 38g | 30g | 23g |
| Gate Closed (kN) | 22 | 22 | 24 | 24 | 20 |
| Sideways (kN) | 7 | 8 | 7 | 8 | 7 |
| Gate Open (kN) | 10 | 9 | 10 | 7 | 7 |
| Gate Clearance (mm) | 26 | 26 | 27 | 23 | 21 |
| Forging Method | Not Specified | Cold | Hot | Not Specified | Hot |
Our Analysis and Test Results
Performance Comparison
Clipping
If you've never used the Ange L before, it might take a little getting used to when it comes time to clip it. The length of the gate that you push the rope against (2.5 cm approximately) is about .5 cm shorter than most other carabiners, and a full cm shorter than the CAMP Photon Wire. This might not seem like much, but it does require you to be more precise, and it makes clipping two ropes at once a bit of a challenge.
Unclipping
When it comes to unclipping, the keylock nose is nice and snag-free. The shape of the basket and nose is also fairly flat, as opposed to super deep, so when holding the gate open, it is very easy to slide the rope straight out of the opening. The keylocking nose makes it an excellent option for use on slings or racking nuts as a result, and it is also easy to unclip a rope from.
Weight
This carabiner weighs in at 34g per L size, which is slightly heavier than most of the full-sized carabiners we've tested, but not egregiously so. There are also a few full-sized options that are heavier, so the weight isn't out of line with normal. The S version of this carabiner is slightly lighter (28 grams), but also smaller. If you are trying to lighten up your rack, the smaller size is for sure the way to go.
Gate Clearance
With two loops of ropes in, we could open the gate all of the way, but once the third one got in there, it impeded the opening a little. While the actual length of the gate is small, the gate clearance is still on the larger side (26 mm).
Handling
The Ange L is a hair smaller than full-size, but similar in size to Petzl's Spirit carabiner, which is a top choice in our quickdraw review. So, if you are used to the size of the Spirit, the Ange won't feel much different. They are large enough to still operate with gloves on, and there is a hole in the other end of the keylock notch to push out any snow or muck that gets in the gate.
Value
Like most keylocking wiregate carabiner, the Ange L is on the expensive side. It's certainly a well-made and "beefier" carabiner and should last a long time; however, you can save a lot of money by going with options that have notches and hooks on the nose, or by choosing a super small and ultralight version instead.
Conclusion
There's no mistaking the look of the Petzl Ange L, and it has a similar feel to the Petzl Spirit carabiners, which we love. However, the things we love about the Spirits don't translate as well to the traditional climbing world. The limited color choices don't work well for racking, and the small gate makes clipping a little awkward. They are still a great carabiner but probably best used as a quickdraw or on your slings.
— Cam McKenzie Ring