Mad Rock Lifeguard Review
Compare prices at 2 resellers Pros: More compact than a GriGri and slightly lighter
Cons: Not as smooth for belaying or lowering, smaller size might not work for larger hands
Manufacturer: Mad Rock
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Mad Rock Lifeguard
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|Pros||More compact than a GriGri and slightly lighter||Easy catch and hold, feeds slack smoothly, smooth lowering, handles ropes down to 8.5mm||Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value||Three belay modes in on device, affordable, stainless steel inserts for greater longevity||Compact, safe and ergonomic way to pay out slack, a bit less expensive than GriGri|
|Cons||Not as smooth for belaying or lowering, smaller size might not work for larger hands||A bit clunky, can only use one rope, takes time to master techniques||Heavier than the Reverso||Slightly heavier than competitors, assisted braking mode requires learning a new belay technique||Method of clipping to harness is counter-intuitive, unlocking device under tension takes some practice, easy to lower too quickly|
|Bottom Line||A good option for longer routes where you want something more compact than a GriGri||By far the most popular belay device in the world is also one of the very best||Simple, durable, and optimal value for multi pitch climbs||A Top Pick because of its unique combination of three different belay modes in one small and convenient device||With a little practice this device quickly became one we enjoy using, with few, if any, downsides|
|Rating Categories||Mad Rock Lifeguard||Petzl GriGri||Black Diamond ATC Guide||Edelrid Giga Jul||Trango Vergo|
|Catch And Bite (30%)|
|Lowering And Rappelling (30%)|
|Feeding Slack (20%)|
|Weight And Bulk (10%)|
|Auto Block (10%)|
|Specs||Mad Rock Lifeguard||Petzl GriGri||Black Diamond ATC...||Edelrid Giga Jul||Trango Vergo|
|Style||Active assisted braking||Active assisted braking||Auto-block tube||Passive assisted braking||Passive assisted braking|
|Recommended Rope Diameter||8.9 mm - 11 mm||8.5 mm - 11 mm||7.7 mm - 11 mm||7.8 mm - 10.0 mm||8.9 mm - 10.7 mm|
|Weight (oz)||5.4 oz.||6.3 oz.||2.8 oz.||4.3 oz.||7.1 oz.|
|Double Rope Rap?||No||No||Yes||Yes||No|
|Belay off anchor?||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
|Assisted Braking?||Yes, active||Yes, active||No||Yes, passive||Yes, passive|
|Warranty||Limited lifetime warranty||3 year||1 year||1 year||1 year|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The Mad Rock Lifeguard is made entirely of aircraft-grade hot-forged aluminum and stainless steel. No plastic on this one! It can accommodate ropes from 8.9 to 11mm in diameter.
The information provided in this review is designed to help you make a purchasing decision, and should not be used as instruction. For recommended usage, check out this short video made by MadRock.
We felt like this device mostly acted like other assisted braking devices in the catch department (locking off quickly and not needing as much force to hold on to the rope as you do with a tube-style device). We knocked it down a few points though because while the catch is similar, the "bite" is not. This unit worked well when top roping most adults over 100 pounds, but when we tried belaying children with it the cam would not engage fully. There's no minimum rating (to our knowledge) for cam engagement in belay devices — usually it's the breaking force we are worried about — but in this case, we were concerned with the lack of camming action. This might also be an issue for lighter adults in situations where there is a lot of rope drag that reduces the weight of the climber being held by the device.
The Lifeguard did not lower as smoothly as some of the tube-style devices we have reviewed, and it felt jerkier than the other assisted braking devices as well. Some might appreciate the metal handle though, which inspires slightly more confidence than the plastic handles found on competitors — not that we've ever had one break on us though!
When it comes to feeding slack, we weren't that impressed with the action on the Lifeguard. Mad Rock recommends the classic tuber-style lead belay (one hand pulling the rope up out of the device and the brake hand pushing the rope in, shown in the video linked above), and this works for paying out small amounts of slack. When your partner goes to clip and you need two large arm-lengths, it did tend to lock up on us though. For those situations, we preferred to use the typical GriGri belay style, but the action there wasn't as smooth as the GriGri either.
We think the difference is because the rope is enclosed inside the GriGri and the track helps it feed smoothly, whereas there is no bottom track for the rope in the Lifeguard. Also note that some of our big-handed male testers found this device uncomfortably small to use, but those with smaller hands might prefer it over the larger GriGri.
Here is one area where the Lifeguard beats out the GriGri. It's not that much lighter, but it is certainly more compact.
Auto Block (resistance belaying a second)
The Lifeguard provided more resistance in auto-block mode (when belaying off the anchor) than the GriGri, but not as much as the auto-blocking tube-style devices. This concurs with our findings about pulling slack through the device; it is just not as smooth a pull as the GriGri.
The Lifeguard retails for a little bit cheaper than the GriGri and significantly less than the GirGri+. While we didn't find ourselves instantly reaching for this device when given a chance, if you are looking for an upgrade to your tube-style device but haven't been a fan of Petzl's assisted braking devices, this might be what you are looking for.
The Mad Rock Lifeguard is a compact belay device that does fill a niche need for those who prefer to belay with an assisted braking device no matter the situation but want something a little smaller for long routes.
— Andy Wellman & Cam McKenzie Ring