La Sportiva TX2 Review
Cons: Synthetic uppers not as durable as leather
Manufacturer: La Sportiva
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La Sportiva TX2
|Price||$130.00 at Amazon||$140.00 at REI|
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|$89.73 at REI|
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|$168.95 at Amazon||$120.00 at Backcountry|
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|Pros||Lightweight, comfortable, supportive, climb well||Awesome balance of hiking and climbing abilities, great support||Supportive, durable, very sticky rubber||Comfortable, supportive, durable||Durable, great traction in dirt and mud, excellent value, workhorse approach shoe|
|Cons||Synthetic uppers not as durable as leather||Relatively heavy and bulky||Heavy||Expensive, not great for edging||Heavy and bulky, especially when carrying on your harness or in a pack|
|Bottom Line||Only snow and ice can stop these approach machines||Specializing in heavy loads and big wall climbing, this model is also a well-rounded favorite||If you find other brands run too wide, these may be the best choice for long approaches||This shoe justifies its heavier weight with exceptional support and hiking performance||This workhorse of a shoe is good to go on everything from alpine scrambles to El Cap|
|Rating Categories||La Sportiva TX2||La Sportiva TX4||Scarpa Crux||Scarpa Mescalito||La Sportiva Boulder X|
|Climbing Ability (35%)|
|Hiking Comfort (25%)|
|Weight And Packability (20%)|
|Specs||La Sportiva TX2||La Sportiva TX4||Scarpa Crux||Scarpa Mescalito||La Sportiva...|
|Outsole||Vibram Mega-Grip||Vibram Mega-Grip with Trail Bite heel||Vibram vertical approach||Vibram Dynamis LBT, Megagrip||Vibram Idro-Grip V-Smear dot pattern|
|Upper Material||Polyester mesh||Leather||Leather||Leather||Leather|
|Weight per Pair (in oz)||20.3 oz (size 9.5)||26.2 oz (size 9.5)||27.2 oz (size 9.5)||32.0 oz (size 10.5)||32.8 oz (size 9.5)|
|Mid Height Available?||No||Yes||No||Yes||No|
|Midsole||Mem-lex/C2 Combo Cord||Traverse injection MEMlex||EVA||2D EVA-CM||Micropore EVA|
|Sticky Rubber? Toe Rand?||Yes, Yes||Yes, Yes||Yes, Yes||Yes, Yes||Yes, Yes|
Our Analysis and Test Results
The La Sportiva TX2 knocks it outta the park in all our metrics, really raising the bar for what we expect from an approach shoe. While other models are made from more durable leather and better for wall climbing, we know that the majority of climbers are using their approach shoes to access and descend, and the TX2s are more than up to the task, and are much lighter and more breathable than the aforementioned shoes. These shoes climb better than almost every other shoe in our review, and only the Guide Tennie can handle technical terrain as well as the TX2.
These shoes have a snugger fit than the TX4's, and the tongue is sewn to the inside of the shoe all the way up the medial side of the foot. When we crank down the laces, we get a tight, stable fit that feels very similar to a climbing shoe.
The laces on the TX2 go all the way down the toe so you can get a tight fit when it's time for some technical edging. In a men's size 9.5, our lead tester's usual street shoe size, his toe sits perfectly at the end of the shoe for edging, but the shoe isn't so tight that it makes hiking uncomfortable. Maybe the leather uppers on the TX4 stretches more than the Synthetic TX2, whatever the case, TX2 edges better than the TX4, and almost as well as our Top Pick for climbing, the Five Ten Guide Tennie.
The Vibram Megagrip sole is plenty sticky, and our testers had a lot of fun pushing the limits of what they could climb in an approach shoe, smearing and stemming up granite climbs, some even in the 5.10 range. These shoes have a similar tread pattern to the TX4s and feature a smooth lugless area at the end of the toe for maximizing rubber to rock contact. When wearing TX2s to the crag, all warm-ups got done in the TX2s.
The low-profile toe can weasel easily into cracks down to tight red Camalots, or about 2 inches. Since these shoes can get so snug with the laces cranked down, we felt super secure in hand cracks; our feet didn't roll around inside the shoe. If you find yourself climbing lots of cracks in your approach shoes, you may want to choose a tougher leather shoe. Fortunately, this shoe is also available in a leather version.
The TX2s have all the comfort of their big brother's but have a very breathable knitted up that don't stretch, keep your feet cooler, and keep the foot stank down. The ankle is lined with a soft, almost fleece-like material. This not only feels great, but it also creates a dirt-proof seal around our ankles, keeping the dirt and fine sand found on many High Sierra descents out of the shoe.
These shoes also fit well in "lazy mode" around camp; even with the laces completely loose, the shoe stayed on remarkably well.
This shoe offers an incredible amount of support, especially considering its low weight. Without a heavy pack, they kept our testers' feet fresh for miles. Carry around 40 lbs we didn't notice a difference between these shoes and the TX4s. The TX4s are more supportive, but unless you're carrying massive haul bags deep into the Paine, the TX2s have plenty of support for most climbers.
Weight & Packability
These shoes are a super light 20.3 oz, one of the lightest shoes in our review. They feature what Sportiva calls the "C2 Combo Cord System". The Combo Cord is an elastic cord that wraps around the heel of both shoes, held in place by a little groove. Put the shoes together upper to upper, heel to toe, and you can secure the shoes together in a tight package. Gimmicky? Maybe, but if you like to climb multi-pitch routes without a cumbersome backpack, you'll be climbing with shoes hanging from your harness for the descent.
The cord system keeps the shoes in a compact configuration, and they balance well with a water bottle hanging for the other side of the harness. And if you don't mind climbing with a pack on, these low profile shoes take up a minimal amount of space in a pack, slightly less than a Nalgene bottle.
A pair of these shoes offer top of the line performance without costing the most. Wonderful!
A good approach shoe can turn a long slog to the cliff into an enjoyable walk in the woods. In the past, our lead tester guided for an entire summer in a blown-out pair of approach shoes, shouldering heavy packs and putting lots of miles over four months, leaving him hobbling for most of the fall. Don't fool around with your feet! Even these lightweight shoes have plenty of support, so even the most weight-conscious climbers have no excuse not to treat their feet nice. Call us short-sighted, but right now we can't imagine a better approach shoe than the TX2, and we're happy to award it the Editors' Choice.
— Matt Bento