The Fitz Roy has 5 ounces of down (151 g) compared to the 7 ounces found in the Neutrino Endurance. Even though the Fitz Roy uses box-baffle construction while the Neutrino Endurance does not, the Neutrino is warmer due to a longer cut in the back and more down packed into the jacket overall.
Comfort & Coziness
A soft chin-guard, soft hand pockets, a large hood, and an overall cushy feel make this jacket very comfortable.
Style & Construction
The box-baffles help to maximize the loft reached by the high quality 800 fill down, which makes it warmer than a sewn-through jacket with the same amount of down would be.
One of the main complaints of this jacket is that the hem is cut too short. Especially compared to the other technical parkas such as the MHW Chillwave and the Rab Neutrino Endurance, the shorter hem leaves more of your body out in the cold.
The recycled polyester ripstop that this parka is made out of is not as durable as the Pertex Endurance found on the Neutrino Endurance. It is a lighter material that compresses well, but is more susceptible to snags.
Wind & Water Resistance
A DWR coating protects this jacket against a light spray of water for a time, but this coating eventually wears off. It is not very water resistant in a dousing. The material is windproof, keeping you protected in blowing cold.
Compactness & Weight
At just over a pound, the Fitz Roy is lighter than both the other technical parkas we evaluated, the Rab Neutrino Endurance. It does not come with a stuff sack, but the high quality down compresses well.
This parka works well as a belay jacket, a thick puffy to bring along on alpine climbs, or a warm every day winter jacket. It is not as durable or as versatile as the other technical parkas we evaluated, but is much warmer than the lightweight jackets in our Women's Down Jacket review.
With a list price that is higher than both the Chillwave and the Rab Neutrino, but a design that is less technical or versatile, we think that your money would be better spent on one of the other technical parkas unless you find this one on sale.