Hands-on Gear Review

Petzl William Review

Petzl William
By: Chris McNamara and Chris Summit  ⋅  Apr 7, 2010
Price:  $18 List  |  $17.95 at REI
Pros:  Key lock, red mark safety feature, smooth but not smoothest, clearance for lots of knots/slings
Cons:  A bit big and heavy, not the smoothest rope pull
Manufacturer:   Petzl
66
OVERALL
SCORE
  • compactness lightweight - 15% 2
  • ease of unlocking and locking - 20% 5
  • gate hang up - 10% 9
  • how many ropes fit - 15% 9
  • rope pull smoothness - 15% 8
  • gate clearance - 15% 8
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5

Our Verdict

The big size and shape of this locking carabiner make it good for using as a master point at an anchor. You can manage multiple ropes and slings Petzl William and organize the belay station. That said, it is a heavy biner and didn't score as high as carabiners like the Black Diamond Rocklock, which is much less expensive. If you want a carabiner of this size, we lean toward the Dmm Boa, which is a little lighter and scored higher. We would also consider the Petzl Am'D before this one just because it is lighter, less expensive and works great. But if you really like the big hybrid pear/D shape, this is a solid and popular big locking carabiner.


Our Analysis and Test Results

Share:

Hands-On Review


Likes


The Petzl William is a big sturdy carabiner that holds a bunch of ropes, slings and knots when used in an anchor. It comes with a smooth key-lock gate and the standard Petzl red stripe that lets you know when the gate is locked or unlocked on the screw-gate model. It comes with three gate styles: screw-lock, Triact (twist-lock) and ball-lock. We recommend the screw because it is the most affordable but some people will enjoy the security of the ball-lock or the speed of the Triact lock.

Dislikes


This is one of the heaviest carabiners in the review and, because of its shape, it is also not as easy to handle. It is not narrow enough to confidently throw around in the palm of your hand. For such a big carabiner, we were also surprised that the rope did not move through it more smoothly. It is smooth, just not as smooth as the Petzl Attache or Dmm Boa. While some people may enjoy the security of the optional ball-lock gate, we found that this style of gate was not the most reliable. After a while, the plastic sleeve around the gate got sticky. The twist lock gate is more reliable but it is also much more expensive. The screw-lock gate is more reliable but takes a lot of turns to open and close.

Best Application


This is a good master point carabiner in an anchor. It allows multiple knots and ropes to be clipped in.

Value


While not an expensive carabiner, it is not cheap either. Most of the competing carabiners cost less and score a little higher.

Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

You Might Also Like

OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: October 10, 2011
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.7)

100% of 7 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
8 Total Ratings
5 star: 63%  (5)
4 star: 25%  (2)
3 star: 13%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Climber

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Oct 10, 2011 - 09:18pm
jeepnphreak · Climber · Bzn, mt
I like this biner. Its big, its solid and there lots of room for the master point of an anchor. I found three points where this biner is better performing that my old BD rocklock, 1. much smoother gate and screw action. 2 larger gate opening. 3. does not freeze as solid when climbng ice. for some reason the screw on the Willams twist easer when frozen…
I like the fact that its not the smoothest when used as a belay biner, when belaying a larger climbing than my self the extra friction is really nice.

Some say that the price is a con for this biner, I disagree, I got mine two for $15.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 17, 2011 - 03:39pm
labrat · Climber · Auburn, CA
I like it but have had a few issues with one screw gate I had to have replaced. The screw gate part stopped functioning properly and would still spin when locked down all the way. The red portion does fade over time as well.

Erik



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

Jun 17, 2011 - 01:20pm
 
Mighty Hiker · Climber · Vancouver, B.C.

Why is it called a "William"? Who was William?




  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jun 17, 2011 - 01:11pm
spsmc · Climber · Swall Meadows,CA
Ball locks! You either love em or hate em.
I am the first. They are not fool proof and have issues such as the lack of ability to release with gloves on, freezing up etc.
But after just getting back from a Yosemite wall I used them, lots. Regular lockers do vibrate undone and I watch some do it while jugging pitches. The William works great here and as a rappel device biner. Once locked i can not worry about vibration and accidental opening. The William is big and lots of room in it.

Use it where you have a critical point where failure would be lethal.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

The Chief - Squamish BC -

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Sep 10, 2010 - 09:15pm
bmacd · Climber · 100% Canadian

got the ball lock for raps, if its closed its locked



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 28, 2010 - 10:00pm
Studly · Climber · WA

I bought a few of these biners and they are great. I really like them. They work well as the powerpoint and you can clip tons of stuff into them and they handle it. Great biner to have a couple of in your quiver.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 28, 2010 - 09:26pm
apogee · Climber

Just got a couple of these recently to replace my main belay device 'biner- haven't used them lots yet, so my impression is somewhat incomplete. It is a bit on the big side, but I do a fair amount of guiding, and it is really handy to have plenty of room for lots of stuff- it almost acts like a rigging plate of sorts. I have big hands, so handling hasn't been a problem for me. Petzl almost never disappoints me in quality and workmanship.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
   Jul 28, 2010 - 09:10pm
Mike. · Climber

This is my go-to max-size biner. Eats up swami and leg loops with room to spare for bights of rope like no other I've tried.

Nothing at all negative to say about it. It kicks royal ass where a huge locker is what you need.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


Have you used this product?
Don't hold back. Share your viewpoint by posting a review with your thoughts...