Hands-on Gear Review

Beastmaker 2000 Review

This hangboard is fantastic for high-end climbers who have extensive previous fingerboard training or already climb 5.13/V8.
By: Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Sep 15, 2018
Price:  $159 List  |  $159.99 at Amazon
Pros:  Greatest number and variety of mono and 2-finger pockets, compact design allows for lots of mounting options, excellent texture, brings the burl if you want it
Cons:  How many people can actually hang onto those outside most 42° slopers?!?, not versatile across ability ranges, minimal warm-up holds
Manufacturer:   Beastmaker

Our Verdict

The Beastmaker 2000 couldn't live up to its name any more thoroughly. This model is covered in tremendously challenging holds. It sports no jugs what-so-ever, and one pair of its dual four-finger width warm-up holds is the same depth as the smallest edge found on some models in our review. What this model lacks in larger edges it certainly makes up for in heinous small ones. No other model has as many mono or 2-finger pockets as the 2000 series from Beastmaker. Heck, this model doesn't even include a pair of matching 3-finger pockets as they are designed primarily for one-armed use, nor have we ever seen anyone be able to hang onto its outer-most 42-degree sloper without cheating. To put it more simply: no other hangboard offers as many bad holds as this one.

This Beastmaker is tough to beat for top-end climbers but a poor choice for folks climbing more in the mid-level grades. If you love this board but don't climb 5.13, check out the Beastmaker 1000 which is aimed a little more at folks in the 5.10+ to 5.13- range.


Our Analysis and Test Results

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The 2000 series Beastmaker lives up to its name even more than its 1000 series counterpart. This board is BUR-LY and is geared for folks who have been hangboarding for a while or already climb 5.13. The main reason is as simple as all the holds on this are bad. Its warm-up holds are the mid-sized to smaller edges on most other models in our review. The Beastmaker 2000 is best for folks who are already doing mostly 2-fingered 2-armed hangs or one-armed with three (or four) finger hangs for their workouts. If this isn't you, then you'll be better off with a model that will offer you more options for your training progression. If this does sound like you, there is no better board for advanced climbers looking to take it to the next level.

Performance Comparison


The Beastmaker 2000 is the best model for hard climbers. If you are already sending routes 5.12c-5.13 or V6/-V8 ranges (or harder) there are few models as packed full with as many viciously small holds than this one and for these types of climbers there are few better options. Photo Billy Gierach works the heinous outside slopers.....
The Beastmaker 2000 is the best model for hard climbers. If you are already sending routes 5.12c-5.13 or V6/-V8 ranges (or harder) there are few models as packed full with as many viciously small holds than this one and for these types of climbers there are few better options. Photo Billy Gierach works the heinous outside slopers.....

Edges and Pockets


For most people, edges (which we describe as a hold we can put all four of our fingers on) are the foundation for most training sessions. However, that is not the case with this board, which is centered around symmetrical two-finger pockets designed to be used with two arms and a variety of three-finger pockets that most climbers using this board will likely hang from one-armed or one-armed with some assistance.

This model has the least number of four finger width edges of any model in our review  sporting just two pairs of 4-finger edges of 1 1/4" and 1/2" in width and two more stand-alone 4-finger width edges of 2" and 1" depths in the center of the board.
This model has the least number of four finger width edges of any model in our review, sporting just two pairs of 4-finger edges of 1 1/4" and 1/2" in width and two more stand-alone 4-finger width edges of 2" and 1" depths in the center of the board.

Edges

This Beastmaker only has two sets of four finger edges (1 1/4" and 1/2") and are the warm-up holds for this model. Just for comparison, a 1/2" 4-finger edge is the smallest for quadruple digits most other models feature. The larger 1 1/4" depth is basically a pad and a half in depth for most climbers.

This models 1-inch edge (shown here) is one of this board's primary warm-up grips but would be among the smaller edges on any other model.
This models 1-inch edge (shown here) is one of this board's primary warm-up grips but would be among the smaller edges on any other model.

This model does offer two four-finger edges in the center of the board (2" and 1" depths respectably) that are more or less designed to be used to work on one-armed lock-offs or to assist in hanging onto more challenging holds when you are getting tried (for example one hand on the 4-finger edge and the other in a mono).

Pockets

The 2000 series is stacked full of pockets (especially 2-finger ones) of varying depths and a few pockets at slopingly vicious angles. This model features no symmetric pairs of 3-finger pockets (we know, right??). It's not that you can't hang with both arms on two different three-finger pockets, but this board isn't necessarily geared for this. The only three-finger pockets are 1 1/2" and 3/4", both just offset from the center of the board and more-or-less designed to be used individually.

this model is stacked with pockets and for folks who are already doing most of their training with less than 4-fingers then this board is stacked with options offering more 2-finger pockets than any other model. In this photo  you can see a little more easily how the two 3-finger pockets in the upper middle of the board are not the same depth.
this model is stacked with pockets and for folks who are already doing most of their training with less than 4-fingers then this board is stacked with options offering more 2-finger pockets than any other model. In this photo, you can see a little more easily how the two 3-finger pockets in the upper middle of the board are not the same depth.

This board has four sets of two-finger pockets. The depths of these are 1 1/4", 1" 3/8", 3/4", and an evil, sloped 7/8" depth pocket. The deepest 2-finger pockets have an offset hole to work on 1-finger hangs. Lastly, there are three one-finger pockets. One of the mono's is slightly sloped.

What all this stacks up to is that the 2000 series Beastmaker doesn't offer climbers in the 5.10-low 5.12 range much to work with, but for 5.13 and higher climbers, this board is the bomb.

Slopers and jugs


This model has three pairs of slopers and no jugs. The middle-most sloper (19°) is more or less designed to be used for one-armed hangs and to help get the blood flowing while warming up. Like the rest of this board, the outer two slopers bring the business and aren't super forgiving, to say the least. The middle-difficulty sloper is 33° in steepness, and most users will find this angle challenging enough while the outside-most and most-challenging sloper is an are-you-kidding-me 42°. For those less familiar with angles, these are the sloper versions of having three sets of mono pockets and no symmetrical three-finger holds.

Texture


This model, along with its less vicious sibling the Beastmaker 1000, have by far the best texture in our review. Both of these models are wood and have a very smooth finish that wrecked our skin the least of any model we tested. We especially appreciated the smooth texture of this board as all of our body weight was often focused onto such a small portion of our fingertips.

Smooth texture is also better for training; because the smoother surface offers less purchase, you need to try harder to hang-on. A potential downside of wood is you don't want to use much chalk as it will produce a gummy feeling over time. This is hardly a big deal because as long as you don't wait to long, you can clean it off.

Pinches


The Beastmaker offers no real pinch training. You can kind of fake it a little by engaging your thumb on the edges and slopers, but then it just makes those holds easier. While this model has a lot going for it, pinches of any kind isn't what it's about. For most folks, this shouldn't be a deal breaker, as only a handful of models have decent pinches, and good edge and pocket options are far more important.

Ease of Mounting


Along with its less vicious sibling, both Beastmakers are compact. As a result, they are easy to mount. Their dimensions are roughly 22 3/4" x 6". The 2000 will fit above nearly any doorway, even in places with lower-than-average 7-foot ceilings. More standard, 8-foot ceilings are easy. The Beastmaker's short height means it can also be mounted in many other less-visible places, like the inside of a closet. The polished wood finish of this board is less of an eye soar than a multi-color polyester resin board, too, if hung in a visible area. It also only requires six screws. As far as mounting a board goes, the Beastmakers are the easiest.

This board is best for pretty advanced climbers. It can work for folks who aren't already red-pointing 5.12+/5.13a but a number of other options would be better. However  for climbers in that 5.12+/5.13a and above redpoint range  there are few better options out there for continuing to get strong.
This board is best for pretty advanced climbers. It can work for folks who aren't already red-pointing 5.12+/5.13a but a number of other options would be better. However, for climbers in that 5.12+/5.13a and above redpoint range, there are few better options out there for continuing to get strong.

Best Applications


This is a beast of a fingerboard and is truly best used by advanced climbers. What does that mean? This model is best for climbers who have been already hangboarding for a while (and love two-finger and one-arm hangs) or already send 5.13. The Beastmaker 2000 doesn't even try to cater to moderate users. If you don't climb mid-5.12 or harder, you will be far better served by a different hangboard.

Value


At $160, this model is twice the price of several other models included in our review like the $80 Metolius Wood Grips Compact II or the equally-priced Metolius 3D Simulator. While we think this board is no-question better than those models, we aren't totally sold that it is twice as good. If you do throw down the cash for this model, you get a board that is CNC machined and finished by hand in the UK with the straight-up best texture we have ever felt. We think the greatest value lies in if you are a 5.13 climbers or V7/8 boulderer, then there is no better board for you.

While twice the price of other models in our review the 2000 series Beastmaker does have several noteworthy attributes which could easily make it well worth the extra cash particularly those short on space or wanting one of the most challenging models available.
While twice the price of other models in our review the 2000 series Beastmaker does have several noteworthy attributes which could easily make it well worth the extra cash particularly those short on space or wanting one of the most challenging models available.

Conclusion


The Beastmaker 2000 is the best hangboard for advanced users looking to take their climbing to the next level. Some models like the Trango Rock Prodigy come close and are more versatile across ability levels, but the Beastmaker simply provides the largest collection of absolutely vicious holds. Heck, there are three sets of mono-pockets, one of them sloping, and we have never even seen anyone be able to hang onto the 42-degree outer-most sloper without some form of cheating. Basically, this is our favorite option for high-level climbers, but a poor option for the majority of climbers out there who are better suited with something else.

Ian Nicholson


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