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Atomik Yaniro Power Review

Offering great ergonomics, killer textures, and a plethora of holds with a well-designed progression, this board is easily among the best for stronger climbers already sending 5.11+/5.12- or harder
Top Pick Award
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Price:  $100 List
Pros:  Tons of holds, great progression of grips, lots of attention to detail with angles of holds and finger support, wide design provides excellent ergonomics and is easier on most peoples shoulders and elbows, stellar texture
Cons:  Not great for novice users, large size means mounting location are potentially more limited, no real pinches
Manufacturer:   Atomik Climbing Holds
By Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Apr 7, 2020
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Our Verdict

The burly Atomik Yaniro Power is our Top Pick for stronger climbers looking to take it to another level. Stacked with the most holds of any model we tested, this board can work for folks already climbing harder 5.10s but is best if folks are at least 5.11c as they will get the most out of it. Atomik paid incredible attention to the shape and depth of each hold creating seemingly perfect incremental increases in difficulty to facilitate a good progression of holds in which climbers can train and grow on.

Our Analysis and Test Results

Designed by Tony Yaniro one of the god-fathers of climbing-specific training, he was on climbing's cutting edge in the late 1970s through the 1990s; with some notable ascents including Grand Illusion near Lake Tahoe which was the first 5.13c (8a) in the world, and was one of the first Americans to climb 5.14.

This rowdy board and is geared for folks who have been hangboarding for a while or are already sending 5.11+. There are some decent holds on this board but the majority of the edges and pockets on this model are burly. The Yaniro Power hangboard is best for folks who are already doing mostly 2 and 3 fingered 2-armed hangs or one-armed with three (or four) finger hangs for the majority of their workouts. If this isn't you, then you'll be better off with a model that will offer you more options for your training progression. If this does sound like you, there is no better board for advanced climbers looking to take it to the next level.

Performance Comparison


Packed full of an array of challenging edges and pockets this model is our Top Pick for stronger climbers. We think it could certainly work for folks who might only climb 5.10 but there are better boards out there for climbers of moderate grades.
Packed full of an array of challenging edges and pockets this model is our Top Pick for stronger climbers. We think it could certainly work for folks who might only climb 5.10 but there are better boards out there for climbers of moderate grades.

Edges and Pockets


This model has the greatest number of pockets and edges of any model we tested. The downside for more novice climbers is that the majority of them are on the harder end of the spectrum. With that said, this model works for a greater range of users than say the Beastmaker 2000, which is really geared toward 5.12+ climbers. This board is no doubt geared toward stronger climbers but will work for 5.11+ climbers through 5.15.

This board has four nice sets of 4-finger edges and two more single 4-finger edges each with a unique depth and angle in which to help its user progress.
This board has four nice sets of 4-finger edges and two more single 4-finger edges each with a unique depth and angle in which to help its user progress.

Edges

This model has four sets of four finger edges including 3/4-inch with a positive incut, 5/8-inch that is flat, 5/8 inch that is slightly sloped and a pair of slightly slopped 3/8" edges. There is also a single 1" deep flat edge in the center of the board as well as a slightly positive 3/8" edge. Compared to other boards, this is a significant number of grips and this board would work for a climber already sending mid-to-harder 5.11s.

There are actually two 3/8th-inch deep edges in one located above the four pockets. The further right side of this edge is downsloping while the inner left-hand portion of it is flat and it is easy to fit all 4-fingers on either portion of the edge. All of our testers liked this pair of edges as this will be a common depth in many peoples training plans.
There are actually two 3/8th-inch deep edges in one located above the four pockets. The further right side of this edge is downsloping while the inner left-hand portion of it is flat and it is easy to fit all 4-fingers on either portion of the edge. All of our testers liked this pair of edges as this will be a common depth in many peoples training plans.

Pockets

While this model has more edges than all but the Trango Rock Prodigy, the main reason to get it is its impressive number of pockets. Besides the sheer number is Atomik's attention to detail on the shape of each pocket. Some have a slight downward slope, some are flat, while others are slightly positive. Nearly all of the pockets have a slightly more rounded edge which provides lots of support for your fingers while hanging.

Featuring more pockets and edges that fit three or fewer fingers than any other board  this bord has an impressive 11 (or 13) pairs of 3-finger or fewer pockets/edges.
Featuring more pockets and edges that fit three or fewer fingers than any other board, this bord has an impressive 11 (or 13) pairs of 3-finger or fewer pockets/edges.

This model has a ridiculous four pairs of three-finger pockets, five pairs of two-finger pockets, five pairs of one-finger pockets. The three-finger pockets are 1.5-inches rounded, 3/4-inch positive incut, 5/8-inch positive split-finger (claw hold), 5/8-inch flat. The five pairs of two-finger pockets include 1.5" rounded, 1-inch slightly positive, 3/4-inch slightly slopping, and a vicious 1/2-inch slightly slopping (more slopping than the 3/4-inch). The one-fingered pockets are 1.75-inch slightly rounded, 1.5-inch slightly rounded and a very elite .75-inch slightly rounded.

The attention to detail on this board really blew us away. How every pocket has a very well thought out shape and depth to facilitate an excellent progression in difficulty. You can even see how the shape of each of these 2-finger pockets change as the depth changes.
The attention to detail on this board really blew us away. How every pocket has a very well thought out shape and depth to facilitate an excellent progression in difficulty. You can even see how the shape of each of these 2-finger pockets change as the depth changes.

All of our testers felt this collection of pockets and edges offered one of the very best progressions of holds and was very near equal to our Editors' Choice winner. For all finger groupings, we were very happy with the selection of depths and shapes to help foster strength building and accommodate gains nicely. We didn't even feel like there was a gap missing that we wished this model had.

The same attention to detail is true in all of this model's holds but particularly the smaller pockets shaped precisely to support your finger and hopefully lessen the chance of injury  something all of our testers truly apprecated esspeically on the smaller holds.
The same attention to detail is true in all of this model's holds but particularly the smaller pockets shaped precisely to support your finger and hopefully lessen the chance of injury, something all of our testers truly apprecated esspeically on the smaller holds.

Slopers and jugs


This model has two fairly easy jugs as well as two long slopers that gradually increase in difficulty as you move further out towards the outside of the board. There is also a wider single sloper in the center of the board that rolls more steeply. None of these grips proved especially difficult but were perfect for warming up on or finished our forearms off when we were already pretty pumped. The slick texture of this model also makes this model's slopers feel particularly pumpy.

While nothing to write home about we appreciated this model's two jugs and progressively steeper sloper at the top of the board.
While nothing to write home about we appreciated this model's two jugs and progressively steeper sloper at the top of the board.

Pinches


This model offers no real pinch-type training. You can kind of fake it by engaging your thumb on some of the slopers, but then it just makes those holds easier. While this model has a ton going for it, pinches aren't one of them. For the majority of folks, this shouldn't be a dealbreaker, as only a handful of models have decent pinches, and good edge and pocket options are the foundation of most training regimes, and the progression of holds this model offers are nearly unmatched.

This was the widest board we tested and as such  along with the Trango Rock Prodigy (which is a two-piece design) encouraged some of the best ergonomics and lessening the strain on our shoulders and elbows.
This was the widest board we tested and as such, along with the Trango Rock Prodigy (which is a two-piece design) encouraged some of the best ergonomics and lessening the strain on our shoulders and elbows.

General Ergonomics

This board has fantastic ergonomics and its wider than average design helps reduce strain on most people's shoulders and elbows. The only other models that could offer as shoulder friendly design were the Trango Rock Prodigy (which is a two-part design that allows you to decide the right width for your body), the Metolius 3D Simulator and the wider-than-average So iLL Iron Palm.

Despite being constructed with polyester resin this board featured a rather smooth texture that to our surprise the majority of our testers found just as good as any wood boards  something any hard training climber can appreciate.
Despite being constructed with polyester resin this board featured a rather smooth texture that to our surprise the majority of our testers found just as good as any wood boards, something any hard training climber can appreciate.

Texture


This is the smoothest board we tested of any material. Typically polyester models don't offer as skin-friendly a texture as wooden models but that simply isn't the case with this model. In particular, Atomik rounded and smoothed out the 2-finger pocket edges letting you train longer without wrecking your skin. Our review team found this model's texture to be the best overall and both the easiest on our skin and the most challenging for a given hold size (a good thing).

The good ergonomics come at a price and the price is the 29" x 8.75-inch dimensions which were some of the biggest in the review.
The good ergonomics come at a price and the price is the 29" x 8.75-inch dimensions which were some of the biggest in the review.

Ease of Mounting


The plethora of holds and some of the review's best ergonomics do come at a cost and that is size. This thing is big. At 29" x 8.75", this is the biggest board in our review. It isn't way bigger than some of the other larger boards out there and most of that size comes in length rather than height but this thing won't fit above most doorways with below-average ceiling height (7ft). It will fit above many doorways with an average ceiling height (8 ft).

This board will BARELY fit above most normal sized doorways in homes with average height ceilings (8ft). It isn't likely to fit above doorways well in places with below-average height ceilings.
This board will BARELY fit above most normal sized doorways in homes with average height ceilings (8ft). It isn't likely to fit above doorways well in places with below-average height ceilings.

As it's so big and made with Polyester Resin, it is HEAVY and while that makes it more of a pain during the actual mounting process, once up weight plays little to no roll. This model mounts with only six screws which is less than average for boards of this size. Atomik makes that work because each of the six included screws is 2.5", long so they pack plenty of strength.

We do think this board packs in a ton of value. With some of the most holds of any board in our review  one of the best progressions of holds from a difficulty standpoint  fantastic texture and great ergonomics its hard not to love this board and it was a very close second for our overall Editors Choice Award.
We do think this board packs in a ton of value. With some of the most holds of any board in our review, one of the best progressions of holds from a difficulty standpoint, fantastic texture and great ergonomics its hard not to love this board and it was a very close second for our overall Editors Choice Award.

Value


We think this model offers tremendous value as it both contains the greatest number of holds and is designed with an excellent progression in difficulty among its grips. Its ergonomics and texture are top-tier and as long as you are strong enough to be using this board (already climbing mid-to-harder 5.11s or better yet have redpointed a 5.12a), it is tough to outgrow this model from a strength and difficulty standpoint. It's easy to clean off and it would take a LONG time to wear this thing out even in a gym setting.

This is easily one of the best overall hangboards on the market with a plethora of grips and fanstastic progression among them its hard not to love this model. As we mentioned we do think it could work for a 5.10 climber but it has so many 3  2  and 1-fingered pockets that climbers who have sent 5.11 climbers who are able to take advantage of these holds will get the most out of it.
This is easily one of the best overall hangboards on the market with a plethora of grips and fanstastic progression among them its hard not to love this model. As we mentioned we do think it could work for a 5.10 climber but it has so many 3, 2, and 1-fingered pockets that climbers who have sent 5.11 climbers who are able to take advantage of these holds will get the most out of it.

Conclusion


The Atomik Yaniro Power hangboard isn't for everyone, but for folks already climbing at a moderately high level, it is the best board out there. Few fingerboards offer such a well though-out progression of holds as this one. As long as you are climbing well enough to get started, it is the best model available for folks already sending at least harder 5.11s or 5.12a. Once there, it can take you as far as you want to push yourself. It is hard not to notice the attention to detail with the specific shape of each hold. Any climber who has spent some time hangboarding will appreciate how each hold is designed with a nice progression to the next. Not to big a step in difficulty but not too small either. This model's slick texture makes you stronger and helps protect your skin with its only real downfall being its large size, which fits a lot of places but not everywhere.

Directly comparing this model (top) to the Trango Rock Prodigy (bottom). The Rock Prodigy barely edged out the Atomik Yaniro for our Editors Choice Award but it was close and both remain fantastic options.
Directly comparing this model (top) to the Trango Rock Prodigy (bottom). The Rock Prodigy barely edged out the Atomik Yaniro for our Editors Choice Award but it was close and both remain fantastic options.

Ian Nicholson