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Five Ten Moccasym Review

These shoes are great for hand cracks and training in the gym
Five Ten Moccasym
Photo: fiveten.com
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Price:  $125 List | Check Price at REI
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Easy on and off, comfortable, "thin" profile
Cons:  Stretch a lot, not great for edging
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
By Matt Bento ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  May 1, 2021
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62
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#27 of 29
  • Edging - 20% 3
  • Cracks - 20% 8
  • Comfort - 20% 7
  • Steep Terrain - 20% 5
  • Sensitivity - 20% 8

Our Verdict

The Five Ten Moccasym is a simple slipper that serves as a solid crack climbing shoe. There's been a lot of new design and development in climbing shoe technology since the Mocc first came on the scene, but decades later there are still plenty of fans in crack climbing meccas like Indian Creek where they're a popular choice for thin splitters. That's due to their low-profile toe and a smooth upper that allows you to get the maximum about of shoe into the slimmest of cracks. The slipper design can become a problem during desperate edging because feet are prone to sliding inside the shoe. Still, they can serve as a useful tool for sustained splitters.

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Five Ten Moccasym
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Five Ten Moccasym
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$149.95 at REI
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$138.95 at Backcountry
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Pros Easy on and off, comfortable, "thin" profileExcellent edging, reasonable price, great for cracksSuper sensitive, roomy fit, easy on/off, affordableComfortable design, respectable edging, low-profile toe, excellent priceAffordable, flat midsole is comfortable all day, well-balanced performance across many areas
Cons Stretch a lot, not great for edgingPainful break-in period, limited usefulness on steep terrainBlunt toe, limited protection, too roomy for low volume feetMediocre precision, subpar on the steeps, somewhat insensitiveInsensitive, imprecise fit, ineffective design for steep terrain
Bottom Line These shoes are great for hand cracks and training in the gymA quality trad shoe with solid performance across the board and a reasonable priceAn ultra-soft shoe that's ideal for the climbing gym or a bouldering sessionDecent overall climbing performance at an affordable price make these a sold choiceAn entry-level shoe ideal for beginners that comes at an awesomely low price
Rating Categories Five Ten Moccasym Black Diamond Aspect Scarpa Veloce La Sportiva Finale La Sportiva Tarantu...
Edging (20%)
3.0
9.0
7.0
7.0
6.0
Cracks (20%)
8.0
9.0
6.0
7.0
7.0
Comfort (20%)
7.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
8.0
Steep Terrain (20%)
5.0
6.0
7.0
6.0
5.0
Sensitivity (20%)
8.0
8.0
10.0
7.0
6.0
Specs Five Ten Moccasym Black Diamond Aspect Scarpa Veloce La Sportiva Finale La Sportiva Tarantu...
Style Slipper Lace Velcro Lace Lace
Upper Leather Leather Synthetic Leather / microfiber Leather/Synthetic
Width Options Regular Regular Regular Regular Regular
Lining Unlined Hemp None Unlined None
Rubber Type Stealth C4 NeoFriction Force S-72 Vibram XS Edge FriXion RS
Rubber Thickness (millimeters) 2 mm 4.3 mm 4 mm 5 mm 5 mm

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Five Ten Moccasym faces some competition from a few other slipper designs. All offer excellent comfort in hand cracks and a narrow profile for sneaking your toes inside thinner challenges. The best choice for you will likely come down to fit, price, and availability.

Performance Comparison


Stealth C4 is still the stickiest rubber we've encountered, and the...
Stealth C4 is still the stickiest rubber we've encountered, and the Moccs will keep you feeling relaxed on featureless, low-angle slabs.
Photo: Matt Bento

Edging


The Moccasym is notoriously bad for edging. If you size them super tight, they do ok, but eventually, the unlined leather uppers stretch into a sloppy mess. At that point, they stay super comfortable for all-day scrambling, but unless you've got toes of steel, you'll be whimpering and over gripping when it comes time to stand on tiny edges.

These shoes are very soft. While comfortable, this makes them a poor...
These shoes are very soft. While comfortable, this makes them a poor choice for technical edging.
Photo: Matt Bento

Crack Climbing


When the Moccs are sized to let your toes lay flat in the shoe, they are comfortable crack climbing machines. We've seen folks carry a quiver of these things up to the crag in Indian Creek, each one sized for a different sized crack. Some climbers size their Moccs large and wear them with thick socks for offwidths. Others wear them tight for better precision. We've also seen the Mocc's uppers slathered in supplemental freesole rubber for increased durability in hand cracks.

Hand cracks are the ideal habitat for the Mocc. These shoes excel in...
Hand cracks are the ideal habitat for the Mocc. These shoes excel in the hand and fist sizes.
Photo: Matt Bento

Steep Terrain


Shoes that excel in pocketed terrain have great edging abilities and possess a pointy toe, and are typically built on an asymmetric last. The Moccasyms don't edge very well, have a relatively blunt toe box, and are a comfy, symmetrical shape. In other words, they're not great for pockets. When it comes to steep terrain, the slipper design also undermines security, causing our testers to whimper during aggressive heel hooks.

The easy on and off of this slipper comes at a price. The heel is...
The easy on and off of this slipper comes at a price. The heel is liking to slip off during aggressive heel hooking.
Photo: Matt Bento

Sensitivity


Right out of the box, the Moccs feel a bit clunky, but once the shoes start to soften up (often quicker than you want them to), they're great for slab climbing and ensure you can feel micro divots and apply a healthy helping of stealth rubber to the rock. Soft shoes are a matter of personal preference, but if it's your preference, these are some of the better soft shoes you can get for crack climbing.

Poor edging performance and a wide, blunt toe box make these shoes a...
Poor edging performance and a wide, blunt toe box make these shoes a bit lacking when it comes to pocket climbing.
Photo: Matt Bento

Comfort


The Moccs stretch a lot, and if you size them for performance, they don't feel great until they've stretched to your foot. When our lead tester climbed exclusively in these shoes, he would size them down from his street shoe size of a US men's 9.5 to a 7.5 in the Moccs so that they wouldn't feel too big by the time they were fully stretched out.

Our lead tester cranks out one more lap before the storm.
Our lead tester cranks out one more lap before the storm.
Photo: Matt Bento

Value


These once bargain shoes have been steadily creeping up in price over the last decade to the dismay of dirtbags everywhere. However, they remain affordable compared to their high-end competitors. Remember, size these shoes tight. They'll stretch out fast, leaving you with a shoe that's very difficult to edge in.

Conclusion


The Five Ten Moccasym features a classic design that remains popular, even in a world with modern designs that can supply better edging and sensitivity. However, it's still hard to beat the Mocc in terms of comfort and simplicity. Once you've figured out the sizing, it's also possible to fit them for a variety of specialized uses in ways that are not possible with new synthetic or lined leather shoes.

Matt Bento