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Sterling Evolution Helix Review

One of the best ropes you can buy, striking a perfect balance between low weight and durability.
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Price:  $285 List | $248.95 at REI
Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros:  Durable, excellent feel and handle, soft catches
Cons:  Pricey
Manufacturer:   Sterling
By Andy Wellman ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  May 8, 2019
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76
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#2 of 16
  • Handling - 35% 8
  • Durability - 25% 8
  • Weight - 20% 6
  • Catch - 20% 8

Our Verdict

Sterling touts their Evolution Helix 9.5mm as a "skinny workhorse," and we wholeheartedly agree. It is one of the top scorers in our comparative review, performing on par with our Editors' Choice winning Mammut Infinity. There is almost nothing to not love about his rope — it handles well and is quite soft, it does a great job of repelling dirt and has a very durable sheath, and at 9.5mm is a fair bit easier to manipulate through a GriGri, and weighs less, than your standard 9.8mm workhorse. We climbed with this rope every day for months, letting everyone we climbed with take burns on it as well, and it still looks practically new. While it doesn't come cheap, if you are in the market for a long-lasting rope but don't want the fattest rope at the crag, then check out the Evolution Helix.


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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Pros Durable, excellent feel and handle, soft catchesSkinny for its diameter, durable, great catch, smooth handlingLight, durable, super soft and supple handleGreat handling, durableEco friendly, nice handle, super light, triple rated, uncoils perfectly from the bag
Cons PriceySlightly stiff, middle mark wears off quicklyNot durable enough for heavy duty sport climbing, a lot of stretch when secondingHeavy for the diameter, high impact force ratingExpensive, dry coating wears off sheath quickly, a tad stiff
Bottom Line One of the best ropes you can buy, striking a perfect balance between low weight and durability.The top-performing do-everything rope that is also a crowd favoriteThe perfect light and skinny rope for climbing high above the groundA great rope for advanced sport climbing.The best choice among the skinny lines we have tested for an extended sport climbing trip.
Rating Categories Sterling Evolution Helix Mammut Infinity Petzl Volta Maxim Pinnacle Edelrid Swift Eco Dry
Handling (35%)
10
0
8
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
7
Durability (25%)
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
6
Weight (20%)
10
0
6
10
0
6
10
0
8
10
0
5
10
0
10
Catch (20%)
10
0
8
10
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9
10
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7
10
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6
10
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7
Specs Sterling Evolution... Mammut Infinity Petzl Volta Maxim Pinnacle Edelrid Swift Eco...
Diameter 9.5 mm 9.5 mm 9.2 mm 9.5 mm 8.9 mm
Weight (g/m) 59 g/m 59 g/m 55 g/m 61 g/m 52 g/m
Certified Use Single Single Single, Half and Twin Single Single, Half and Twin
UIAA Fall Rating 7 8-9 6 7 7 (single), 22 (half/twin)
Impact Force 8.9 kN 8.4 kN 8.6 kN 10.3 kN 8.8 (single), 6.7 (half), 10.4 kN (twin)
Static Elongation % (in use) 7.2 6.5 7.5 5 9 (single), 8.6 (half), 5.3 (twin)
Dynamic Elongation % (first fall) 31.9 30 33 26 31 (single), 28 (half), 26 (twin)
Sheath Proportion % 41 40 42 36 34
Dry Coating Option DryXP Mammut's Dry Treatment Duratec Dry Endura Dry 2x treatment Eco Dry
Middle Mark or Bi-Pattern Option Middle Mark and Bi-Color Option Bi-Pattern or Middle Mark Middle Mark Bi-pattern option Middle mark
Lengths Available 40m, 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m. DryXP: 60m, 70m, 80m 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m 60m, 70m 60m, 70m, 80m

Our Analysis and Test Results

We tested this rope for around three months at Smith Rock and in Red Rocks and must say that it still seems like it has barely been broken in. After over 200 pitches it still looks newer than some ropes that we have only climbed 30 pitches on, with a smooth, treated finish that does an amazing job of repelling dirt, not to mention water. It comes in a ton of variations of length (40m — 80m), weave (standard w/ middle marked or BiColor), and dry treatment (either not treated or DryXP), so no matter what specifications you are looking for, you can find it with the Evolution Helix. To us, this rope perfectly embodies the newer generation of ropes that tend toward thinner and lighter while still offering incredible durability, and we firmly believe that 9.5mm is the new 9.8 — 10.0. Sterling calls this rope their skinny workhorse, and in our testing and experience, it perfectly matches that description, holding up to abuse just as well as the Sterling Evolution Velocity, the 9.8mm "workhorse" that we recommend as the best. If you want durability, a great handle, and less weight, then we highly recommend this rope to you.

Performance Comparison


Pulling the roof crux on pitch 2 of Levitation 29 in Red Rocks using the Sterling Evolution Helix 9.5  a durable rope that is also relatively light weight and can handle all sorts of climbing.
Pulling the roof crux on pitch 2 of Levitation 29 in Red Rocks using the Sterling Evolution Helix 9.5, a durable rope that is also relatively light weight and can handle all sorts of climbing.

Handling


It's hard for us to think of how we would describe a rope with a nicer handle than this one. It starts out slippery, and actually stays that way for months of heavy sport climbing use, exhibiting the amazing durability of its DryXP coating. The cord is supple and soft, but not quite as squishy as the Petzl Arial. It stays perfectly circular and is very easy to bend and manipulate for tying knots or shoving into a belay device. We have never encountered an issue with it sticking in an active assisted device like the GriGri, and feel that it pulls really smoothly through when needing to pay out armloads of slack. After over 200 pitches of use, the rope is a little dirtier, but not much so, and has not changed its general character one iota. It remains slippery and smooth to the touch, is just as soft as when we bought it and has not stiffened or become cord-like at all.

The Evolution Helix is a soft and supple rope that never gets stiffer or more "cord-like" over time as it handles many falls. It also remains slippery and comfortable to the touch  with incredible sheath longevity  making it one of the easiest ropes to pull through a belay device. or tie knots with.
The Evolution Helix is a soft and supple rope that never gets stiffer or more "cord-like" over time as it handles many falls. It also remains slippery and comfortable to the touch, with incredible sheath longevity, making it one of the easiest ropes to pull through a belay device. or tie knots with.

Catch


Assessing the quality of a rope's catch is one of the hardest testing tasks we have been presented with, in large part because there are so many factors that go into a hard or soft catch besides only the rope. The Evolution Helix's 8.9kN Impact force rating is slightly higher than a couple of the other 9.5mm ropes we tested, such as the Mammut Infinity or the Arial. However, its 7.2% static elongation figure is a bit less than the Arial, and we would have to say that comparing them head-to-head on top-rope burns, we sagged a little less with rope stretch when using the Helix. This would lend one to believe that it doesn't give the absolute softest catch possible, but our experience says there is nothing to complain about. After repeated 20 ft. whippers at the crux high on one route, we didn't feel like the rope was begging for an end change, although we changed it up anyway in the name of preservation. Regardless, we can think of ropes that we did not receive as friendly a catch with.

Falls low on a route can be particularly jarring because there isn't a whole lot of rope out to absorb the impact. Belayer technique has a lot to do with how the fall will feel for the climber  but the Evolution Helix also provided for relatively soft catches.
Falls low on a route can be particularly jarring because there isn't a whole lot of rope out to absorb the impact. Belayer technique has a lot to do with how the fall will feel for the climber, but the Evolution Helix also provided for relatively soft catches.

Weight


The Evolution Helix weighs 59 g/m, which is 1 g/m more than either the Mammut Infinity or Petzl Arial, but is 2 g/m lighter than the Maxim Pinnacle, our Top Pick for Sport Climbing. All of these ropes are 9.5mm, so it is no surprise that they weigh very close to the same amount. If you multiply out the math, you will find that a 60m rope will weigh you about 7.8 lbs., which isn't too bad for a workhorse rope. In fact, the combination of low weight and great durability is why we think this rope is one of the best.

At 59 g/m  the Evolution Helix is about average for a 9.5mm rope  but is quite a bit lighter than thicker 9.8 or even 10mm ropes. On long approaches and multi-pitch routes  a 9.5mm rope can be a great compromise between durability and weight.
At 59 g/m, the Evolution Helix is about average for a 9.5mm rope, but is quite a bit lighter than thicker 9.8 or even 10mm ropes. On long approaches and multi-pitch routes, a 9.5mm rope can be a great compromise between durability and weight.

Durability


After over 200 pitches of climbing, we would have to say that with the exception of a bit of metal dust and some dirt, this rope looks almost the same as when we pulled it out of the bag. The sheath shows virtually no sign of fraying, and the DryXP coating on the outside of the sheath remains largely intact. This rope certainly does not absorb dirt very quickly, which helps it retain a long life span. Without a doubt, it is one of the more durable ropes you can buy, especially among 9.5 offerings.

The sheath wear on the Sterling Evolution Helix on top compared to the Petzl Arial on the bottom. The sheath of the Helix has gotten a bit dirty from metal dust running through carabiners  but otherwise remains quite intact after over 200 pitches  while you can see the Arial is more worn  frayed  and rough.
The sheath wear on the Sterling Evolution Helix on top compared to the Petzl Arial on the bottom. The sheath of the Helix has gotten a bit dirty from metal dust running through carabiners, but otherwise remains quite intact after over 200 pitches, while you can see the Arial is more worn, frayed, and rough.

We didn't give it our highest score for this metric however, simply because of some features that it doesn't have compared to the competition. For instance, the sheath follows a 2x2 weave pattern, which is not quite as tight and durable as the 1x1 pattern found on the Maxim Pinnacle. It is also doesn't have Unicore technology, like the Edelweiss Curve Unicore Supereverdry, a feature that bonds the sheath fibers to the core so that the sheath will not slip if you happen to sustain a coreshot.

Pulling back up to the high point after a fall is one of the harder things for a rope in terms of durability. Doing this repeatedly can quickly wear out the ends of the rope. The Evolution Helix was able to easily sustain a ton of sport climbing days  one reason we call it a skinny workhorse.
Pulling back up to the high point after a fall is one of the harder things for a rope in terms of durability. Doing this repeatedly can quickly wear out the ends of the rope. The Evolution Helix was able to easily sustain a ton of sport climbing days, one reason we call it a skinny workhorse.

The Evolution Helix is the consummate all-around rope  ideal for heaps of days at the sport crag  or for single pitch trad climbing  or multi-pitch adventures. Here working Latest Rage at Smith Rock.
The Evolution Helix is the consummate all-around rope, ideal for heaps of days at the sport crag, or for single pitch trad climbing, or multi-pitch adventures. Here working Latest Rage at Smith Rock.

Value


A 60m DryXP version of this rope will run $244 for a single color with a middle mark, or $270 if you want the Bicolor dual weave that uses a different thread pattern on each end of the rope, making it super easy to identify the middle. While this isn't the most expensive rope in this review, it sure costs a lot more than some of our Best Buy candidates. However, since it is so durable and obviously lasts a long time, we think the extra money is worth it for the top quality.

This rope presents great value because it has a durable sheath and can withstand tons of abuse  while coming in plenty of different options for those looking to stick to the budget.
This rope presents great value because it has a durable sheath and can withstand tons of abuse, while coming in plenty of different options for those looking to stick to the budget.

Conclusion


The Sterling Evolution Helix is a skinny workhorse rope that hits the perfect sweet spot between lightweight and great durability. We think it is one of the best ropes we have used for almost any type of climbing.

Whether sport or trad climbing  single pitch cragging or long multi-pitch adventures  the Evolution Helix 9.5 is a rope that can handle all of it for a long time.
Whether sport or trad climbing, single pitch cragging or long multi-pitch adventures, the Evolution Helix 9.5 is a rope that can handle all of it for a long time.


Andy Wellman