Hands-on Gear Review

DMM Peenut Review

Showing a set of DMM Peenuts
By: Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Feb 5, 2010
Price:  $53 List  |  $49.95 at Amazon - 6% Off
Pros:  Durable, excels in pins scars, light weight
Cons:  Metal is not as soft giving them less bite in marginal placements
Manufacturer:   DMM

Our Verdict

As their name implies, DMM Peenuts are small. They come in only five sizes and have a heavily tapered design that fits wonderfully into small pods, pin scars, and flairs. Being made of hot forged aluminum, they are more durable than copper, bronze or brass nuts. Also, the cables are not fixed as with most brass nuts, adding to their toughness. They match the color scheme of the rest of the DMM and Wild Country nut families. So while they are not designed to be a stand-alone rack, they make a great addition that increases small protection options.

They are extremely light and less bulky than many other micro nuts. They can work well for aid climbing but not as well as the DMM Brass Offsets, making them an addition to an aid climber's rack rather than a replacement.


Our Analysis and Test Results

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Likes


The best part of the DMM Peenut is its slightly offset taper, which allows them to fit into pin scars where another climbing nut might not be fall-worthy. They are better than WC Superlight Rocks and not quite as good as DMM Alloy Offsets in these types of cracks. The Peenuts offer one of the best aluminum options for thin crack protection. Aid climbers will enjoy Peenuts because of their pin scar prowess. While they didn't fit into scars quite as well as DMM Brass Offsets, Peenuts were more durable. Although Peenuts are not a complete set on their own, their color coding matches the rest of the DMM and Wild Country nuts, making them a convenient addition. Also, the large amount of surface area gives these nuts greater holding power.

Dislikes


Aluminum doesn't bite as well as brass, bronze or copper. The large surface area on the sides of the nut, while offering more surface, can be harder to place in smaller cracks. These larger sides worked better in smooth rock than in highly textured or irregular rock. Peenuts were also harder to clean than similar aluminum nuts. They were among the poorest nuts for placing in parallel sided cracks.

Best Application


Peenuts are a good complement to a rack of any type, especially those of other DMM or Wild Country nuts where Peenuts will follow the same color scheme. They are best for smaller cracks if you aren't willing to give up the durability of aluminum. They fit pin scars and shallow flares well for aid climbers but they should not replace a set of brass nuts.

Value


Peenuts are functional and durable. Plus, they are only $50 per set, much less than other specialized micro nuts, whether brass, bronze or aluminum. They should not replace an aid climber's brass nuts but they complement that set quite well.

Ian Nicholson


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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: September 9, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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  • 5
 (4.8)

100% of 6 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 86%  (6)
4 star: 14%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Climber

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   Sep 9, 2010 - 05:37am
bearbreeder · Climber

fits small squamish cracks …. tough



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Feb 12, 2010 - 08:00am
freerider · Climber

I think these nuts are especially goo d on tricky limestone placements, and any othe more broken kind of rock. You really understand why they made them in Wales once you've climbed there. Also on quarzite they are super nice… If you only buy one type of small stopper, buy this one.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Jan 23, 2010 - 03:04am
Salamanizer · Climber · The land of Fruits & Nuts!

By far the best nut for pin scars. I've had a set of these nuts on my rack since they came on the market and never ever climb with out them. The smallest red one (as well as other sizes) have saved me from potential huge whippers on R and X rated routes twice. They can easily take the severity out of a route by fitting where only a piton would.

Single best nut on the market as far as small nuts go without being considered "micro nuts" for free climbing. They are the HB offsets of small nuts "Perfect and would be hard to improve". Never leave ground with out them.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Dec 16, 2009 - 01:00am
msiddens · Climber

I just picked up a set this Summer and got a chance to use them in the Meadows. Awesome small nut for scars. I'll be taking them to the Valley



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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   Dec 15, 2009 - 03:39pm
adam d · Climber

Rich Gottlieb turned me on to these and they became my default small nuts for free climbing in the Gunks. The cutaway at the base and the thinner wire helps them seat really nicely. I wore out the cables on some and fixed others in falls but kept buying more. I don't use them quite as much in other areas as I did there.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Chris McNamara

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   Dec 15, 2009 - 01:43pm
Chris McNamara · Founder and Editor-in-Chief

This is my favorite nut on El Cap and the one I place the most. When doing the Nose, this is usually the only nut I end up using (though I must admit I dont like placing nuts much). For anything bigger, I can usually get a cam. For anything smaller, I usually go with the DMM Brass Offsets.

These are much more durable than the Brass Offsets and just feel more bomber. They are perfectly shaped for most pin scars. Its nice that you can slide the head down for aid climbs. This comes in handy if you need to improvise a rivet hanger or snag a hangerless bolt that is just out of reach.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.


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