First Look Review

Metolius Climbing Glove Review

Metolius Climbing Glove
Top Pick Award
Price:  $37 List | $31.95 at MooseJaw
Compare prices at 4 resellers
Pros:  Durable, reinforced, good fit, bomber clip in loop
Cons:  Expensive
Bottom line:  The best half-finger leather glove we have used.
Editors' Rating:   
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Manufacturer:   Metolius Climbing


RELATED REVIEW: Best Climbing Gloves for Belaying, Cracks and Rappelling

Our Analysis

Review by:
Chris McNamara

Last Updated:
Saturday
September 9, 2017

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This is among the better fingerless climbing gloves we have used and probably the most popular climbing glove in Yosemite. They come cut at just the right length, are reinforced in all the right spots, and have a burly clip-in loop so you can confidently clip them to the side of your harness.

If you want a more burly glove for rappelling or climbing, this is it. If you are on a budget and have extra time, you might consider finding some cheap $8-10 full-length leather gloves and cutting off the fingertips. However, if you go that route remember that the end product will probably not be as durable or as dexterous as these or other brand name fingerless gloves. The only glove that scored higher is the Black Diamond Crag Half-Finger which has better dexterity and is less expensive but not quite as durable.

Likes


It's hard to imagine more bomber 3/4 cut climbing gloves for big wall climbing or rappelling. These are reinforced in all the right spots. Most importantly, they have a snug fit around the fingers, which is hard to find in leather gloves and very hard to duplicate if you make your own homemade fingerless climbing glove. Also, with a homemade cut, you have duct tape at the end of the fingers and then maintain the tape. Not so with these gloves. The ends of the fingers have clean reinforced stitching that keeps them from blowing open too quickly. These also have more of the palm reinforced than most other fingerless gloves. The reinforced area extends all the way to much of the thumb which gives more protection from climbing rope wear. Finally, of all the climbing gloves sold, these have the most trips up El Capitan. So the fact they are so widely used and loved is a big plus. These are also among the easiest gloves to find both on the web in a climbing glove sale and at your local store.

Dislikes


Because they are made entirely of cowhide, these gloves take a while to break in. At first, they don't have the best dexterity, and then they soften up.

Best Application


This climbing glove excels at big wall climbing especially aid leads. You can make some easy free moves with them on, but for harder free climbing you will want to take them off. They work as a belay glove. But if I were just belaying, I would get a full-length glove.

Value


These are in the middle of the value range. They cost about as much other fingerless gloves. Their lifespan is above average. You can always make homemade fingerless climbing gloves but it won't have the same durability or fit around the fingers.

Other Versions


The Metolius Belay Glove is the full-fingered version.

Chris McNamara


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Most recent review: September 9, 2017
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:  
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:  
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 (3.3)

50% of 4 reviewers recommend it
 
Rating Distribution
5 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 80%  (4)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 20%  (1)
Person Icon

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   Nov 12, 2016 - 02:29am
AngelVG

Hi guys,

This month I buy the Metolius climbing gloves 3/4 from www.gearexpress.com great store, but later when i receive the gloves i found that the quality is not the same.

I found this review in Amazon:

"Quality way down since moving from China production to Pakistan production.
ByB. Linsonon June 9, 2015
Verified Purchase

I don't know why but Metolius must has recently changed from their China production to Pakistan production and the quality has gone WAY down. I bought a pair of these a about three years ago and recently lost one of the gloves. I figured since the pair I had were so good I could not go wrong buting another pair. Boy was I wrong. The new Pakistan produced glove is horrably substandared compared to the China produce one. The leather is much thinner and cheaper. The wrist pull is only sewn once where the older China version is double sewn. They feel very cheap compared to the older China gloves. China gloves the seams are on the outside which is much more comfortable. I won't buy another pair of these and I would not recommend them to my friends."

My new gloves say "Made in Pakistan" and is a garbage :-(

Please update the review with this new information.



Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.


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   Jul 9, 2011 - 05:47am
WML · Climber · Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock

After somehow losing one of my homemade gloves in transit to the Valley, I found myself getting ready to get on a wall and without gloves.

To the Mountain Shop I went, and begrudgingly purchased these.

They are gloves, they do what they are supposed to do and do it very well. Are they worth the price? Not so sure, but I'm a cheap bastard so who knows. Don't lose your homemade gloves en route… :(



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

Apr 25, 2011 - 10:30pm
 
Matt Thomsen · Climber · Places

My pair want to sh#t after the first wall. The stitching tore out. I had used the iron hand for the last three years and six walls and are pretty worked, but still work. I would go with the iron hand again.




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   Apr 25, 2011 - 04:41am
spidey · Climber · Berkeley CA

I've had a pair of these for 10 years and 6-8 moderate yosemite walls, and they are still going strong - no sign of falling apart or wearing out anytime soon. They do a great job of protecting your hands and the fingers are long enough to cover the second knuckle, which tends to take a lot of abuse on walls especially when you are new to aiding and jugging. The downside is that they are a bit stiff and do take some breaking in, and you lose some dexterity. They are great for aiding, a bit clumsy for free moves, but they seem to be a huge step above homemade gloves. For me they were a great value and I would definitely buy them again.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.

Climber

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   Mar 10, 2010 - 06:33am
le_bruce · Climber · Oakland, CA

I've been up three walls in mine, still in good not great shape, and the price per pitch index is looking to be pretty sweet over the life of the gloves. After +/- 70 pitches, no stitching has come loose, no holes have formed.

But next time I'll just make my own out of cheap leather gloves - and this is the only reason I wouldn't recommend these. If cash is no concern, these won't disappoint.



Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.


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