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Petzl Tibloc Review

Petzl Tibloc
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Price:  $35 List | $26.21 at MooseJaw
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Light, works on icy ropes, compact.
Cons:  Expensive.
Manufacturer:   Petzl
By Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief  ⋅  Apr 16, 2010
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63
OVERALL
SCORE
  • Sliding Up Rope - 30% 7
  • Passing Pieces - 20% 2
  • Comfort - 25% 5
  • Weight - 25% 10

The Skinny

The Petzl Tibloc is one of the lightest and most compact ascending devices out there. It does a great job grabbing icy ropes and is very compact and lightweight. It does not replace a tradition handled ascender]. Instead, it's meant more for emergencies.

If you have the money, this is a great device. If you are on a budget, and mostly a rock climber, I would probably just use a prusik cord instead. However, if you are a mountaineer and want a device that will grab icy ropes in an emergency, this is a great device. If you are looking for a real full-function ascender, check out the Petzl Ascension Ascender.


Our Analysis and Test Results

Likes


This is great for emergency and rescue situations whether you need to get someone out of a crevasse or just need to ascend a rope for a short distance. It is so light that you barely notice it when clipped to the side of your harness. Many people think of it as a prusik replacement. It is about the same weight as a prusik but less bulky. It works smoother and faster than a prusik and does a better job grabbing icy and wet ropes than a prusik.

Dislikes


This works great for ascending short distances but in no way is a replacement for a handled ascender like the Petzl Ascension. It it not as fast or smooth to operate and takes some getting used to. This fact is obvious to most people, but I mention it here just to make sure you understand its capabilities and limitations before buying one.

Best Applicaion


For emergency rescue situations where you need to raise an injured climber. Also can save you if you rappel off in the wrong direction and need to ascend a rope to get to the anchor.

Value


At $34 each or $68 a pair (usually bought in pairs) it's really hard to justify the price for this. It's just a single piece of metal! By comparison, a few feet for 5-mm-7mm accessory cord to make a prusik will cost just a few bucks.


Chris McNamara