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Moses Rivet Hangers Review

   

Rivet Hangers

  • Currently 4.5/5
Overall avg rating 4.5 of 5 based on 5 reviews. Most recent review: November 15, 2010
Street Price:   $6 | Compare prices at 1 resellers
Pros:  useful, lightweight, strong
Cons:  no keeper slings
Best Uses:  big wall climbing, aid climbing
User Rating:     
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 (4.0 of 5) based on 4 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (3/3) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Moses
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ January 13, 2010  
Overview
These are the best and perhaps only "keyhole style" rivet hangers for big wall climbing. They are essential for nearly any big wall rack unless you are doing a "Super Trade Route" like The Nose or Moonlight Buttress. When you use one of these, you are usually in a place where you are really glad you have it!

On a route with many hangerless bolts, these will make a giant psychological and safety difference. With these keyhole hangers you will feel secure. With only wire rivet hangers you can feel like a strong wind gust could blow off all your protection.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
These are strong, durable and very useful. They are much stronger than wire rivet hangers and, more importantly, are more likely to stay on the bolt once you move above it. Lastly, these give you another three inches of reach over a wire rivet hanger… and on some routes that three inches is essential. They are much more durable than wire rivet hangers, which often get worn down and have actually snapped on me under body weight conditions.

Even though they are much better to leave as pro, wire rivet hangers still have their place. For one thing, wire rivet hangers are much faster to place. If you are racing up a rivet ladder, you typically want to only use wire rivet hangers, then leave a keyhole rivet hanger on every third rivet or so. Also, sometimes wire rivet hangers are the only thing that will fit behind a rivet or machine head that is tight against the wall.

5/16" rivet hanger
5/16" rivet hanger
Credit: Chris McNamara

Dislikes
The only way these could be better is if they had a keeper sling to make sure you don't drop them while cleaning. When cleaning these on a traverse, or when they get a little stuck, it can be easy to drop them. I don't know the perfect way to make a keeper sling but below is a photo of how I have made them for my own rivet hangers.

showing a keeper sling for a RP keyhole hanger.
showing a keeper sling for a RP keyhole hanger.
Credit: Chris McNamara

Also, I find that the 5/16" size can get get stuck easily if there is not much space between the bolt (or rivet) head and the wall. If they feel stuck, be careful about cleaning them; don't wail on them with a hammer to free them. There is nothing worse than breaking a rivet in your zeal to clean one of these hangers.


Best Application
They are useful for any big wall with hanger-less bolts, which is all but the most popular big wall climbs. They are absolutely essential on many obscure big wall climbs that might have missing hangers or long rivet ladders with no hangers. While they come in two sizes, 3/8" and 5/16", I generally only carry the 3/8" because it will work on the most different sizes (but is less secure on 1/4" bolts). For a typical wall, I would probably bring two 5/16" and five 3/8" unless it is a route like Wall of Early Morning Light on El Capitan, which has TONS of hangerless bolts. In that case you can't bring too many.

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: November 15, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)

100% of 3 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
4 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (2)
4 star: 25%  (1)
3 star: 25%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 4 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Nov 15, 2010 - 04:18pm
Gene · Climber
Great tool to open beers when you can't find a church key. I have no idea how they work on rivets.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Feb 4, 2010 - 05:06pm
 
Mike. · Climber
While Moses Enterprises does a great job producing gear, the large style hanger offering is a misfire if intended use is on Yosemite wall climbs.

The large hanger uses a disastrously poor design patterned after the PFH hangers. This hanger, with its sharp bend and short height, acts to pry the rivet during loading. There is no way to keep this from happening in normal climbing use. Not only does the sharp bend act as a fulcrum against the rock, but forces the orientation of the weight-bearing portion contacting the rivet/bolt into the worst possible location: furthest from the rock.

This large hanger will work fine as long as pull-out and shear strength is sufficient, as with a sleeve/bolt type of hangerless bolt (uncommon on Yo walls), perhaps others where the bolt is long and large. But for the common machine head rivet such as the ones found on ZM, Aurora and other routes, as well as shallow aluminum rivets on WEML and Zamac rivets, this hanger is downright dangerous. I've witnessed shallow rivet placements fail under body weight with this style of hanger. Machine heads are mostly very bomber as far as the bolt itself; the placements are the issue. They're frequently placed <1" deep, and of course rock quality varies. The 3/8" RP rivet hangers, with their diagonal bend, work far better and do not exhibit the same prying action as the Moses and PFH hangers. Notice how the diagonal bend will force the weighted biner toward the wall, versus forcing it the furthest way from the wall as the Moses/PFH design does.

As much as I love almost all Moses gear, I have to give the large rivet hangers two huge thumbs down simply based on the design, which I would never consider putting on my rack for any wall route.


The small Moses rivet hanger is based very similar to those produced by Lucky and is basically the standard keyhole hanger design used by resourceful wall rats making their own. I haven't yet placed my small Moses hangers yet, but have all faith they will work as well as the home-mades and Luckys I own. The 5/16" size will work well on buttonhead Rawl/Powers Drive bolts without hangers which is, along with the pounded-in machine head, the standard rivet on Yo big walls.


Since the two hangers are completely different, I did not rate or reco either. No way to direct those comments to the individual products in this review.


PS: For body weight, which many/most rivets are intended, cable rivet hangers are still an indispensable tool in addition to solid steel rivet hangers. On routes like WELM and routes with Zamac rivets, thin cable rivet hangers are mandatory gear. These bomber steel hangers simply will not fit on many rivets.
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   Feb 2, 2010 - 12:03pm
Rocman · Climber · Reno,NV
Great gear I have used keyholes on rivits,dowels as well as bolts,I have also made my own keyholes by filing a slot from the biner hole to bolt hole and they work great,I also have used SMC 1/4 inch hangers for the smaller dim.bolts

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jan 23, 2010 - 12:22am
Captain...or Skully · Climber · Where are you bound?
These are damn fine hangers…..Moses gear is solid & simple.
A couple or three on your rack can't be a BAD thing, can it?
I've got a few in MY quiver. Highly recommended.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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5/16" rivet hanger
Credit: Chris McNamara
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