The Best Mountaineering Boot Review

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Luke Lydiard traversing a glacier in Patagonia while wearing the Kayland Hypertraction. A waterproof super-gaiter style boot is the perfect kind of footwear for the cold and notorioulsy wet conditions in Patagonia.
Credit: McKenzie Long
We tested 8 of the best mountaineering boots ever made, including some of the latest and greatest, and some tried and true performers. We wore these boots to climb ice, snow, rock, and choss from the Sierra to the San Juans, from Patagonia to the Ruth Gorge. We discovered the best boots for multi-week Alaska expeditions and for red pointing single day mixed test-pieces, for climbing single pitch WI6 horror shows to multi week alpine suffer fests. We measured weight, warmth, waterproofness, durability, and the ability to climb ice and rock. We also considered how well a boot will handle the approach whether it be a ten minute boot pack or a two-day ski.

For first time buyers, we broke some of the mysteries about what category of boots they need achieve their goals in the mountains in our Men's Mountaineering Boots Buying Advice article.

For other ice climbing and mountaineering gear suggestions check out our Dream Ice Climbing and Mountaineering Gear List. You might also find The Best Mountaineering Boots For Women Review helpful.

Read the full review below >

Review by: Luke Lydiard ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab April 9, 2013

Top Ranked Mountaineering Boots - Men's Displaying 1 - 5 of 7 << Previous | View All | Next >>
Our Ranking #1 #2 #3 #4 #5
Product Name
La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX
La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX
Read the Review
Video video review
Salewa Pro Gaiter
Salewa Pro Gaiter
Read the Review
La Sportiva Nepal Evo
La Sportiva Nepal Evo
Read the Review
Video video review
La Sportiva Spantik
La Sportiva Spantik
Read the Review
Video video review
Scarpa Phantom Guide
Scarpa Phantom Guide
Read the Review
Editors' Awards  Editors' Choice Award    Best Buy Award  Top Pick Award   
Street Price Varies $650 - $700
Compare at 7 sellers
Varies $495 - $599
Compare at 4 sellers
Varies $459 - $510
Compare at 8 sellers
Varies $600 - $750
Compare at 5 sellers
Varies $525 - $599
Compare at 5 sellers
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100% recommend it (2/2)
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100% recommend it (2/2)
Be the first to rate it
Pros Warm, Lightest super-gaiter boot, WaterproofWarm, Waterproof, T-Zip, Adjustable sole stiffnessStiff and supportive, durable leather and metal lace loops, great for ice climbingEasy to lace, Warm enough for anything under 8000 meters, Supportive enough touring on approach skis, Climbs and walks like a much lighter bootWarm, Wider fit will appeal to people with wide feet
Cons Expensive, Possibly hard to findAdjustable sole option adds weightUncomfortable tongue bites top of foot, stock laces won't stay tied very wellCuff bites after miles and miles of skiing, Heaviest boot in the review (so not a good all-around boot)Lace lock broke upon first using the boot, Heel lift may be a problem for narrow to normal feet
Best Uses ice or mixed climbing in cold and wet conditionsice climbing in cold and wet conditions, ice climbs with long approachesIce climbing, mountaineering in cold weather in the lower 48, alpine climbing where the temps stay above 0.Cold weather mountaineering, generally above 6000 meters. Great on Denali.ice climbing in cold and wet conditions
Date Reviewed Apr 08, 2013Apr 08, 2013May 12, 2013May 12, 2013Apr 08, 2013
Weighted Scores La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX Salewa Pro Gaiter La Sportiva Nepal Evo La Sportiva Spantik Scarpa Phantom Guide
Weight - 10%
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7
Warmth - 10%
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Water Resistance - 10%
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Rock Climbing - 20%
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Ice Climbing - 20%
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Hiking - 20%
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Durability - 10%
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Product Specs La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX Salewa Pro Gaiter La Sportiva Nepal Evo La Sportiva Spantik Scarpa Phantom Guide
Style Super-gaiter Super-gaiter Single Double Super-gaiter
Weight 968 grams (size 44) 1121 grams (size US Mens 10) 1180 grams (size 44) 1352 grams (size 44.5) 1031 grams (size 43.5)
Sizes Available Euro 37-48 with half sizes US Men's 5-12 with half sizes Euro 38-48 with half sizes Euro 39-47 with half sizes Euro 39-47, 48 with half sizes
Upper Gore-Tex stretch, Nylon, Cordura, Rubber Schoeller, Super Fabric, Rubber 3.2mm Perwanger Leather, Rubber Benecke CeraCom, Lorica, Rubber S-Tech Fabric
Waterproof Lining Gore-Tex FW fabric waterproof/breathable Gore-Tex OutDry
Insole (shank?) Rigid 3mm Honeycomb Carbon Rigid Nylon + Fiberglass Rigid Insulating Ibi-Termo 9mm Rigid 5mm thermal structure carbon Rigid Pro-Fiber
Midsole TPU/PU, SBR Aircushion TPU/PU, SBR Aircushion TPU, EVA PU/TPU
Sole Rubber Vibram with Impact Brake Vibram Salewa Pro Vibram with Impact Brake Vibram Montagna Vibram TT3
Manufacturing Location Italy Italy Italy Italy
Other Features to Note Adjustable Sole Stiffness Removable Inner Boot
Stars 5 4 3 5 3

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review


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  • Editors' Choice Winners
  • All Reviewed Products

Weight
An old adage says that the weight of your foot is equal to many times that much weight out of your pack. Regardless of what multiplication factor you use to calculate the gains, it is undeniable that the weight of your gear is a factor when mountaineering. Lighter is better, all other factors being the same. Lighter gear is opening up new possibilities, not just for the elite alpinists but for average climbers too.

We weighed all of our boots in comparable sizes using a digital scale and ranked them against each other. Our lightest test boot was The North Face Verto S4K, which is a great boot for warm weather mountaineering. We were most impressed with the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX which is super-gaiter boot weighing less than many single boots, but offers much more warmth and protection.

Rock Climbing Ability
Underneath all of that ice and snow in the mountains is rock. While most of the boots we reviewed are designed with crampon climbing as a primary focus, we considered how well a boot will climb rock without crampons. We found that the major factor in climbing rock in boots is the amount of ankle flexibility the boot allows. Other factors were sole rocker, toe profile, and thickness of the sole. For pure rock climbing, we prefer boots with a moderate amount of sole rocker, a narrow toe profile, and a thin sole. The less ankle support the better, for either fourth class or easy fifth, which is what we found ourselves climbing in the mountains without rock shoes.

Mountaineering boots typically edge very well due to the stiff platform of the rigid or semi rigid sole. Where most boots lack in rock climbing ability is smearing and sensitivity. Experienced mountaineers develop ways to climb and move over rock in rigid soled boots that are different from how they would in rock or approach shoes. For instance, pockets or cracks that you may use in rock shoes may be worthless to mountaineering boots, but tiny calf burning edges will feel solid underfoot in stiff boots.

The North Face Verto S4K was the lightest boot in our review, and we found that it climbed rock the most efficiently. This is due to a combination of the flexible lightweight upper and the flexible sole which allowed for a higher degree of sensitivity underfoot. We also found the Best in Class winning La Sportiva Batura 2.0 to climb dry rock extremely well do to it's thin carbon fiber sole, which allowed the foot to be closer to the rock for better balance.

Ice Climbing Ability
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The Scarpa Phantom Guide in action on the Roadside ice in June Lake, CA. The fully rigid sole allows for a solid platform for front-pointing in vertical ice.
Credit: Luke Lydiard

Ice climbing ability is a measurement of a boot's ability to climb ice and mixed with crampons on. The factors we considered were: if a boot had a fully rigid sole, how much the upper supported the ankle while frontpointing, if it accepted step in crampons, and how well those crampons fit the boot. Our test crampons were either Petzl M10s or the newer Petzl Lynx. All of the boots were tested using wire toe and heel bails except for The North Face Verto S4K. The Verto was tested using the Lynx with the included strap toe bail since the Verto will not accept a wire toe bail.

We favored boots with a fully rigid sole over boots with flexible soles because they make for a solid, supportive platform while front-pointing in vertical ice. We also favored boots that had both front and rear welts to accept step-in crampons, because we have found that wire toe and heel bails provide for more security and precision than strap attachments.

Our two favorite boots for pure ice climbing were the La Sportiva Trango Prime and the Batura 2.0. While these boots vary greatly in warmth and levels of protection, they both have fully rigid soles, toe and heel welts, and the perfect amount of ankle support for standing on front-points. The worst boot in the review for pure ice was The North Face Verto S4K, which lacks both a front toe welt or a rigid sole. The lack of toe welt meant that the boot had to be fitted with a toe strap crampon, which we find to be less secure or precise than wire toe bails. We also found the Verto to sag greatly under body weight when standing on front points, which tired our feet and calfs quickly. The Verto is much better suited for less than vertical snow or neve than pure ice or steep mixed.

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Lateral view of the Verto S4K showing the amount of flex the non rigid sole has when front pointing. While the added flex of the sole is an advantage on long approaches it limits the ice climbing ability of the boot.
Credit: McKenzie Long

Hiking Ability
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Preparing to switch footwear from lightweight hiking boots to the waterproof Kayland Hypertractions for glacier travel in Patagonia.
Credit: McKenzie Long

Alpine climbing and mountaineering usually involves a good amount of approaching before the real climbing begins. We wore these boots on both long and short approaches, and considered sole flexibility, ankle support versus restriction, and weight to measure how well they handled the approach. We tested these boots over approaches that varied from roadside ice in Colorado to full day hikes in Patagonia.

We found that the lightweight The North Face Verto S4K and the La Sportiva Trango S Evo - Men's handled approaches the best due to their non-rigid insoles and flexible uppers. We would recommend these boot for moderate snow and neve climbs in the Sierra, where the approaches can be longer than the actual climb.

Since it has the innovative feature of a convertible walk/climb mode, we were surprised at how well the Salewa Pro Gaiter hiked when in walk mode, and then became completely rigid in climb mode. We think that the Pro Gaiter would be a great boot in the Canadian Rockies or Patagonia where the approaches are longer and the climbing is hard and steep, requiring a fully rigid boot.
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The climb/walk mode adjuster was an area that showed increased wear on the Salewa Pro Gaiter. The downside to this mode change is that it adds weight to the boot.
Credit: Luke Lydiard


Warmth
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We often wore two different boots to objectively compare them. The Salewa Pro Gaiter (top) was noticeably warmer than the La Sportiva Nepal EVO.
Credit: Luke Lydiard

For many, warmth is the number one concern when selecting a mountaineering boot. We wore all of our boots extensively in temps ranging from 60 above to 20 below, and evaluated how warm our feet were. We often wore two different boots at the same time to objectively compare them. (This earned us some funny looks.) One day while climbing ice in Lake City, Colorado with a La Sportiva Nepal on one foot and a Salewa Pro Gaiter on the other foot, we were stopped and questioned by other climbers. On this day we found that the foot in the Pro Gaiter was noticeably warmer than the foot in the Nepal.

We also found that a factor in a boot's overall warmth is related to fit. We recommend a healthy amount of wiggle room in front of your toes. Certainly upsizing too much will sacrifice performance, but if you cram your feet into too small a size, your blood flow will be restricted, your feet will get cold, and you won't send. See our Buying Advice to learn how to properly fit a mountaineering boot.

Waterproofness
To test the waterproofness we hiked and climbed though wet snow, slush, and dripping ice. It goes without saying that staying dry is the best way to stay warm, so we closely monitored when our feet got wet.

Many of the boots in the review use the industry standard waterproof/breathable Gore-Tex lining, which we found to keep our feet dry flawlessly. We highly recommend Gore-Tex as a waterproof boot liner. A few of the other boots use other waterproof/breathable membranes such as OutDry, which we also found to be completely waterproof. The only boot that claimed to have a waterproof membrane and readily let in water was the La Sportiva Trango Prime. The absolute driest boot in the review was the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 which uses two layers of GoreTex, a waterproof zipper with storm flap, and has an extra high cuff.

Durability
Mountaineering boots aren't cheap, so everybody wants to get the most from their investment. We used and abused all of the boots, and then inspected them for signs of wear. We also noted where they failed or appeared that they may fail in the future. None of the boots in our review had any total failures which made them unclimbable.

Our Best Buy award winner the La Sportiva Nepal EVO GTX was our most durable boot in the review. The Nepal is constructed of thick Perwanger leather and uses metal lace hardwear which should last for years and years. The most disappointing failure was the from the La Sportiva Trango Prime which has fabric/leather lace loops that broke and forced us to modify the lacing pattern in the field. It should be said that we likely climbed more pitches in the Prime than any other boot in the review, which subjected it to more abuse than the others.

Value
Mountaineering boots aren't cheap but we think that spending as much money as you can the first time around is important. Cold feet or getting a boot not designed for your objective will both shut you down. We think that spending the extra money on the boot that truly fits your needs is the best way to get the most from your money.

The Bottom Line

Editor's Choice
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Luke Lydiard testing the Batura 2.0 in the Ouray Ice Park.
Credit: McKenzie Long

The winner of our Editor's Choice award is the La Sportiva Batura 2.0 GTX which is a step beyond any other super-gaiter boot ever made. The Batura 2.0 combines solid climbing ability with superior weather protection in a lightweight package. The Batura is so light, in fact, that it weighs less than many single boots, which offer much less warmth or protection. La Sportiva has built upon the first versions of the Batura to make this all new boot that truly deserves the title of 2.0. The Batura uses not one, but two layers of Gore-Tex to keep you dry. The Batura also uses a super thin honeycomb carbon insole which not only keeps you closer to what you are climbing, but provides perfect stiffness step in crampons.

Top Pick
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Jason Kuo rappelling Ham and Eggs on the Moose's Tooth in Alaska wearing the La Sportiva Spantik, which is the most common boot worn on routes in Alaska.
Credit: Luke Lydiard

Our Top Pick was the La Sportiva Spantik which is a lightweight double insulated boot, suited for multi-day assaults on peaks under 8000 meters. The Spantik is insulated in both the inner boot and outer shell, providing the highest level of warmth of any boot we tested. We feel that the Spantik is as much of a game changer in the category of insulated double boot as our Best in Class winner the Batura 2.0 is in the super-gaiter category. The Spantik is the gold standard in the Alaska Range, from Denali to the Mooses Tooth, since it is not only extremely warm, but climbs hard rock and ice like a much lighter boot.

Best Buy
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The Nepal EVO after climbing a pitch of water ice in Lee Vining Canyon. The fully rigid sole provides excellent support while climbing, and deep heel and toe welts which allow use with any step in crampon on the market.
Credit: Luke Lydiard

Our Best Buy award goes to the La Sportiva Nepal EVO, which is our pick as the most durable boot. The Nepal is made of 3.2mm Perwanger leather which showed no signs of wear during our review, and we expect them to last for seasons. The Nepal also uses the industry gold standard Gore-Tex lining to keep your feet dry. While the Nepal is not the absolute least expensive boot we reviewed, it will likely last the longest, which makes suitable for schools or clubs looking for a rental fleet of mountaineering boots. If you are looking to get the absolute best value for your money, the Nepal is your boot.

Luke Lydiard
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