Hands-on Gear Review
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Street Price: Varies from $11 - $14 | Compare prices at 3 resellers
Pros: Low friction when belaying from anchor, compact, easy to handle
Cons: Not the lightest biner
Best Uses: trad climbing, sport climbing, big wall climbing
The Petzl Attache used to be hands down the best compact belay carabiner but now it has some tough competition. The Metolius Element is cheaper and slightly lighter and smaller. We like the Attache more but if you are on a budget you might consider the Element or the Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS, which also scored very well and is lighter and cheaper. The Petzl Attache 3D is a new, lighter and slightly bigger version that scored higher in our tests. We prefer it but it is much more expensive and not quite as smooth for belaying off the anchor in auto-block mode.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
This is the favorite belay biner of many guides because it is so smooth, especially when belaying from the anchor with a device like the Petzl Reverso 3. Its compact size is still big enough to get the job done. The gate is easy to lock and unlock, even with gloves. The gate required fewer turns than many other carabiners. The standard Petzl red safety marker alerts you when the biner is closed or not. This safety feature also helps prevent over-tightening as you can stop tightening once the red is no longer visible instead of needing to wait for the gate to run out of twisting room. What makes this carabiner stand out is its small yet functional size. It is pretty light but also sturdy.
There are no major dislikes other than the fact there are now lighter key-lock biners of the same size or even a bit larger.
This is ideal as a belay carabiner, especially for multi-pitch climbs if you want to belay off the anchor. It is also light enough, compact enough, and a enough of a value to use as a locking biner in anchors and wherever lockers are needed. For alpine climbing we would go with something lighter.
At $13 this is in the middle of the value range. It is not a cheap $10 carabiner but also not one of the expensive $20 ones. Considering how long they last, especially the gates, they have a good long-term value.
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: March 10, 2010
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