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Petzl Attache Review

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Locking Carabiner

  • Currently 4.2/5
Overall avg rating 4.2 of 5 based on 2 reviews. Most recent review: March 10, 2010
Street Price:   $13
Pros:  Low friction when belaying from anchor, compact, easy to handle
Cons:  Not the lightest biner
Best Uses:  trad climbing, sport climbing, big wall climbing
User Rating:     
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 (5.0 of 5) based on 1 reviews
Manufacturer:   Petzl
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ February 2, 2010  
The Petzl Attache used to be hands down the best compact belay carabiner but now it has some tough competition. The Petzl Attache 3D, $21, has replaced the Attache and is 37 percent lighter and about 37 percent more expensive than the original. The Attache 3D now goes by the name of Attache.

The Metolius Element is cheaper and slightly lighter and smaller. We like the Attache more but if you are on a budget you might consider the Element or the Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS, which also scored very well and is lighter and cheaper. The Petzl Attache 3D is a new, lighter and slightly bigger version that scored higher in our tests. We prefer it but it is much more expensive and not quite as smooth for belaying off the anchor in auto-block mode.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

This is the favorite belay biner of many guides because it is so smooth, especially when belaying from the anchor with a device like the Petzl Reverso 3. Its compact size is still big enough to get the job done. The gate is easy to lock and unlock, even with gloves. The gate required fewer turns than many other carabiners. The standard Petzl red safety marker alerts you when the biner is closed or not. This safety feature also helps prevent over-tightening as you can stop tightening once the red is no longer visible instead of needing to wait for the gate to run out of twisting room. What makes this carabiner stand out is its small yet functional size. It is pretty light but also sturdy.

There are no major dislikes other than the fact there are now lighter key-lock biners of the same size or even a bit larger.

Best Application
This is ideal as a belay carabiner, especially for multi-pitch climbs if you want to belay off the anchor. It is also light enough, compact enough, and a enough of a value to use as a locking biner in anchors and wherever lockers are needed. For alpine climbing we would go with something lighter.

At $13 this is in the middle of the value range. It is not a cheap $10 carabiner but also not one of the expensive $20 ones. Considering how long they last, especially the gates, they have a good long-term value.

Other Versions
The Petzl Attache 3D, $21, has replaced the Attache and it 37 percent lighter and about 37 percent more expensive than the original.

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews

Most recent review: March 10, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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Average Customer Rating:   
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100% of 1 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
2 Total Ratings
5 star: 50%  (1)
4 star: 50%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
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   Mar 10, 2010 - 07:51pm
clockclimb · Climber · Orem, Utah
My favorite belay biner. Reasonably light, durable, and oh so versatile. The best biner for auto-blocking. Nice keylock nose.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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