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Hands-on Gear Review

Petzl Attache Review


Locking Carabiner

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Top Pick Award
Price:   $21 List | Sale $17.95 at Amazon
Pros:  Low friction when belaying from anchor, compact, easy to handle
Cons:  Not the lightest biner
Editors' Rating:     
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Manufacturer:   Petzl

Overview

The Petzl Attache used to be hands down the best compact belay carabiner but now it has some tough competition. The Metolius Element is cheaper and slightly lighter and smaller. We like the Attache more but if you are on a budget you might consider the Element or the Mad Rock Ultra Tech HMS, which also scored very well and is lighter and cheaper. The Petzl Attache 3D is a new, lighter and slightly bigger version that scored higher in our tests. We prefer it but it is much more expensive and not quite as smooth for belaying off the anchor in auto-block mode.

View our complete Locking Carabiner Review to see how this product compared to others.

New Version Update - September 2015
The original gold, round barstock version has been discontinued, though there is still a Attache HERA version in blue available for the time being. Keep reading to find out more!


RELATED: Our complete review of locking carabiner

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Analysis and Hands-on Test Findings

Review by:
Chris McNamara
Founder and Editor-in-Chief
OutdoorGearLab

Last Updated:
Tuesday
February 2, 2010

The Petzl Attache HERA vs. The Petzl Attache


Petzl has discontinued the gold Attache; however, the Attache HERA is still available for the time being, according to Petzl. The gold Attache and blue Attache HERA are almost identical and we feel as though our review will still give you a good feel for the Petzl Attache. Check out the side-by-side comparison below, with the Petzl Attache HERA shown on the left and the Petzl Attache in gold pictured on the right.
Click to enlargeClick to enlarge 

Hands-On Review


Likes


This is the favorite belay biner of many guides because it is so smooth, especially when belaying from the anchor with a device like the Petzl Reverso 3. Its compact size is still big enough to get the job done. The gate is easy to lock and unlock, even with gloves. The gate required fewer turns than many other carabiners. The standard Petzl red safety marker alerts you when the biner is closed or not. This safety feature also helps prevent over-tightening as you can stop tightening once the red is no longer visible instead of needing to wait for the gate to run out of twisting room. What makes this carabiner stand out is its small yet functional size. It is pretty light but also sturdy.

Dislikes


There are no major dislikes other than the fact there are now lighter key-lock biners of the same size or even a bit larger.

Best Application


This is ideal as a belay carabiner, especially for multi-pitch climbs if you want to belay off the anchor. It is also light enough, compact enough, and a enough of a value to use as a locking biner in anchors and wherever lockers are needed. For alpine climbing we would go with something lighter.

Value


At $13 this is in the middle of the value range. It is not a cheap $10 carabiner but also not one of the expensive $20 ones. Considering how long they last, especially the gates, they have a good long-term value.

Other Versions


Petzl Attache 3D
Click to enlarge
  • Wins our Editors' Choice award
  • Replaced the Attache
  • 37 percent lighter
  • A little smoother for belaying a second in auto-block mode
  • $21
Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: February 14, 2015
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (5.0)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (2)
4 star: 33%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 2 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Feb 14, 2015 - 04:26pm
Seb · Climber · Paignton
fantastically smooth but no longer sold in Europe (not the uk) i can't believe they would discontinue this fantastic biner.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 10, 2010 - 07:51pm
clockclimb · Climber · Orem, Utah
My favorite belay biner. Reasonably light, durable, and oh so versatile. The best biner for auto-blocking. Nice keylock nose.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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