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Omega Pacific Jake Review

   

Locking Carabiner

  • Currently 3.4/5
Overall avg rating 3.4 of 5 based on 3 reviews. Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Street Price:   Varies from $13 - $16 | Compare prices at 4 resellers
Pros:  Cool gate design, good gate clearance, smooth rope pull
Cons:  Heavy, bulky, gate gets hung up
Best Uses:  Great belay and rappel locking carabiner.
User Rating:     
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 (4.0 of 5) based on 2 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (2/2) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Omega Pacific
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ April 9, 2010  
Overview
Omega Pacific's Jake is a solid belay, rappel and top rope carabiner. It is not perfect for multi-pitch or mountaineering if weight is a factor. For that we would go with something like the [[Petzl Attached 3D]J]. The Jake held multiple knots/slings better than other locking biners we reviewed except the Black Diamond Rocklock and DMM Boa, which held more. This surprised us because we figured the side-swing gate would out perform them. In general, we would go with the Black Diamond Rocklock, which is lighter and cheaper. If you want the ultimate large biner, go with the DMM Boa. It partially comes down to how much you like the unique sideways gate. While it does give more clearance, it is not dramatically more clearance than other large carabiners so it's more about how much you like this unique design.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
This carabiner stands our for its custom side-swing gate that gives you better gate clearance than some other carabiners. It also has a thick rounded design that lets the rope run very smoothly, especially when using a munter hitch. There is lots space for multiple knots or slings and the Omega scored near the top for how many ropes would fit into it.

Dislikes
This carabiner is a bit on the heavy and bulky size. Many carabiners of a similar size are lighter. Surprisingly, despite its gate design, it didn't score great for having five knots in it because there is not a lot of area from the bottom of the gate to the bottom of the biner. The gate notch gets hung up easily - on this it got the lowest score in our test. The screw gate version was one of the slowest to twist shut.

Best Application
Good belay/rappel biner because of its smooth rope handling. The screw-lock model works well for an anchor or backup biner while the quik-lock gate is a great belay/rappel biner. This is a great locking biner for winter because it is also one of the largest pear-shaped biners, making it easier to handle with gloves.

Value
This $15 carabiner falls in the middle of the value range. It is not cheap like a $10-12 value biner but also not in the $20 range like many of its competitors. Based on how durable it is, it has good long-term value.

Chris McNamara and Chris Summit

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.0)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 33%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 2 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Apr 18, 2014 - 03:57pm
Rankin · Climber · Greensboro, North Carolina
I use one as a belay biner and I like it despite the extra weight. I don't use it for alpine though. It's hilarious that the reviewer gives it a lower score for rope pulling than the Petzl Attache 3D because the size and more uniform roundness of the Jake make it much better for rope pulling compared with the 3D, and it's not even close. My partners tend to climb with fatter ropes, and it's so difficult to belay in reverso mode with the 3D (using fatter ropes over 10mm) that I don't bother. But no such problem with the Jake. In reality, the rope feeds more smoothly in all belaying and rappelling applications. Also, if you prefer to clip through the waist belt and leg loops rather than just the belay loop, these larger biners allow it comfortably. Yes, it's heavy and bulky, but if the rest of your biners are comically small and light like mine, you can afford the extra 40 grams on your rack.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 14, 2010 - 12:50pm
TGT · Climber · So Cal
I've switched to this for a belay biner.

I got tired of the BD Airlock that they sell with the harness or ATC constantly stabilizing in a cross-loaded configuration. Why they sell this design (it's only sold with an ATC or harness) for this use is a bit baffling.

Since this design is symmetrical, round on both ends, and has a concave spine it will flip backwards but inherently won't stabilize and stay in a cross-loaded position.

It is a bit heavy though and has much less room for knots than its appearance would suggest.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Omega Pacific Jake
Credit: Omegapac.com
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