Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Lightweight and compact, proven durability, exceptionally comfortable, near perfect features, attractive styling.
Cons: No handwarmer pockets could be a drawback for some people.
Best Uses: Hiking, climbing, skiing, all-purpose use.
The Arc'teryx Alpha FL is the highest scoring hardshell jacket in our assessment of 20 and the recipient of our Editor's Choice Award. Trip after trip, for three years, our testers have reached for this jacket more than any other. It's lightweight (11.4 oz), compact, has an exceptionally ergonomic fit, above average breathability, near perfect features, and is astonishing durable. The old version of this jacket, which used the less durable Gore-Tex Active membrane, held up well to two years of backpacking, alpine climbing, mountaineering, and backcountry skiing. The 2014 Alpha FL uses the super durable Gore-Tex Pro membrane; this jacket strikes the ideal balance between low weight and longevity. Furthermore, thanks to advanced patterning that minimizes the amount of seams, the 2014 Alpha FL is the most breathable expedition worthy jacket we've tested. This jacket excels at everything from day hikes to multi-month expeditions-- it's a backcountry enthusiast's dream come true.
Check out our complete Hardshell Jacket Review to compare all of the jackets tested.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
The 2014 version of this jacket is significantly better than the previous version. You can tell the difference between the two versions in several ways: (1) the new version uses Gore Pro membrane, which has a grid pattern on the inside; and (2) the new version has the same color face fabric throughout, whereas the old version had a different fabric on the shoulders. Our photos below show the old version in purple and new version in red. All user reviews below posted 2/1/2014 and earlier reflect experience the old version-- ignore their criticism if you're interested in the new version.
The Alpha FL has one external zippered chest pocket, a helmet compatible hood, and velcro wrist closures. The jacket is simple and these features are exceptionally well designed. This jacket is one of only two tested that receive 10 out of 10 points for features.
The full-length zipper and highly breathable membrane eliminate the need for pit zips. The velcro wrist closures are thin yet grippy; we found that they remained stickier longer than other closures in snowy and ice conditions- great benefit for ice and alpine climbing.
The Alpha FL’s expansive hood is very comfortable whether it’s worn with or without a helmet. This is the only lightweight hardshell we’ve tested that has three hood drawcords, a significant advantage that dramatically increases comfort compared to the light shells that only have one cord (like the Patagonia M10).
The zipper is also worth discussing because its operation is nearly effortless. Unlike many other hardshells that use urethane coated "water tight" zippers, opening the Alpha FL to ventilate is super fast and super easy. Just the way it should be.
ice climbing traverse of New Hampshire’s White Mountains, where he “hiked a bunch of 4000 footers and did three long alpine ice climbs.” This tester chose the Alpha FL because of its extra large chest pocket that “held a map, compass, and [energy] bars better than other shells.”
Indeed, the Alpha FL has the largest single chest pocket of any jacket we’ve tested. Its extra space compared to other hardshells is wonderful for stashing things on the go. The single chest pocket is our testers' favorite pocket configuration for hardshell jackets because it is easy to open--just reach across the chest and pull down-- even while on the move and while wearing a pack or harness, or both.
There are three reasons why our testers prefer chest pockets to handwarmer pockets.
(1) Handwarmer pockets are rarely effective at warming your hands in the backcountry.
In warm weather we've found that our hands often get wet regardless of a jacket’s pocket design. Then, the challenge is keeping our hands warm when wet. In cold conditions the challenge is keeping our hands warm, and the large gloves and mittens we all wear rarely fit inside of hardshell handwarmer pockets. Even when they do, there's often little benefit because the pockets are uninsulated. Further, when we are walking at a reasonable pace our hands will either be swinging at our sides, gripping trekking poles, or firmly attached to ice tools.
(2) Chest pockets are easier to access. Handwarmer pockets are difficult to access when compared to chest pockets that have a zipper in the center of the chest. Lifting your right hand up and in, to your right armpit, to reach a zipper is a lot harder than reaching it across to the center of your chest. Try it.
(3) Chest pockets provide more storage space. In order to make a handwarmer pocket accessible while wearing a pack the zipper needs to be relatively near the center of your chest, away from a pack's shoulder strap. Unfortunately, this dramatically reduces the width of the pocket; you have little storage space for your hands and other things. In contrast, chest pockets with zippers in the center, near the jacket's main zipper, can create a voluminous pocket.
For these reasons we prefer chest pockets and have found that handwarmer pockets are best for urban environments when we are caught out in the rain without gloves. However, we acknowledge that some people love handwarmer pockets. If you're one of them consider the Arc'teryx Beta FL, which is described more below, or the Patagonia Super Pluma.
For a more detailed discussion of hardshell jacket features see our Hardshell Jacket Buying Advice.
The Alpha FL has best-in-class fit, feel, and ergonomics. After two years of testing we’ve revised our scoring to reflect feedback from numerous testers. This is the only hardshell tested that receives 10 out of 10 points for mobility.
One tester used the jacket for the Isolation Traverse, a 33-mile ski mountaineering tour though North Cascades high peaks and glaciers with 24,000 ft. of elevation gain. He came back raving about the Alpha FL’s ergonomic arm design and said that this was the most comfortable hardshell he’s used. (He’s tested at least 10 top-tier shells). He also spoke eloquently about the Alpha FL’s attractive looks, which are considerably more stylish than the boxy Patagonia M10.
The Alpha FL uses Gore-Tex Pro membrane, which is Gore’s most highest quality membrane. Several other ultralight hardshells with thinner face fabrics, such as the Mountain Hardwear Blazar and Haglofs Gram Comp Pull score slightly higher in our breathability tests, but difference is very slight. Arc'teryx redesigned this jacket for Fall 2014 and they claim that the jacket as a whole is more breathable than the previous version, which used Gore Active membrane. Technical jargon aside, the Alpha FL is about as breathable as it gets for a hardshell. Furthermore, unlike the the abovemention jackets, the Alpha FL has a full-length zipper that allows fast and easy ventilation. Our testers consistently find that the ability to ventilate is more important that a small difference in fabric breathability.
The breathability of any waterproof breathable jacket is limited by the condition of its durable water resistant (DWR) chemical coating. When the DWR wears off the face fabric will “wet out” and breathability will drop dramatically. This totally sucks, but it unavoidable. DWR is the Achilles heel of waterproof breathable jackets. No DWR coating is as durable as we wish it was; all wear off relatively quickly. For this reason, it’s important to wash any hardshell frequently and reapply DWR coating. See the video at the bottom of this page for wash instructions.
The Alpha FL uses a 40 denier plain weave face fabric that has proven to be highly durable for its weight. Combined with the Gore Pro fabric, this jacket is undoubtedly the most durable hardshell for its weight-- it is expedition worthy AND lightweight!!
Although the Alpha FL is very durable, it is not the most durable jacket we've tested. If you want a jacket for a multi-month foray into Siberia, are a full-time mountain guide, consider the Arc'teryx Alpha SV.
Our medium Alpha FL weighs 11.4 ounces. The jacket is lightweight, but not superlight. If saving weight is your #1 concern we suggest either the 8 oz. Patagonia M10 or, if you want to go really light, consider the ZPacks Waterproof Breathable Cuben Fiber Rain Jacket, which only weighs 4.9 oz. The Alpha FL can pack into its own small included stuff sack.
The combination of low weight, high breathability, fantastic features, and a great fit make this jacket one of the most versatile we’ve tested. If you prefer two handwarmer pockets for around town consider the Arc'teryx Beta FL (see blow), or Patagonia Super Pluma.
Like most hardshells the Alpha FL is cut for active use. There's enough room to wear a lightweight fleece jacket, such as the Patagonia R1 Hoody AND a midweight insulated jacket such as the Rab Xenon or Mountain Hardwear Ghost Whisperer underneath, but there is not enough space to wear a massive puffy jacket like the Patagonia DAS or Feathered Friends Volant. We've found that this fit is ideal for 99% of applications. However, if you do a lot of standing around in cold, rainy environments and need to put a big puffy jacket (again, think Patagonia DAS size) underneath your shell then we suggest a jacket with an expedition fit, such as the Arc'teryx Alpha SV.
We have heard that Arc'teryx's larger sizes work well for generously sized people. If for some reason you find the opposite consider the Patagonia M10, which has a slightly boxier cut than the Alpha FL.
The Alpha FL is best suited to ice and alpine climbing. It is also our testers favorite jacket for backcountry skiing and works very well for many other activities.
The Alpha FL is our testers' go-to hardshell for everything from backpacking to climbing, to general use around town. When presented with a box full of 21 jackets and asked to choose one jacket to keep, the vast majority of testers jumped right for the Alpha FL.
The women's version of this jacket is the Arc'teryx Alpha FL - Women's.
The Arc'teryx Beta FL is slightly heavier and more expensive than the Alpha FL and adds two high handwarmer pockets.
Hardshell Wash Tutorial Video
— Max Neale
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Most recent review: February 17, 2014
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