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La Sportiva Mythos Review

   

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.2/5
Overall avg rating 4.2 of 5 based on 13 reviews. Most recent review: July 8, 2014
Street Price:   Varies from $112 - $140 | Compare prices at 8 resellers
Pros:  Comfortable, can wear all day, great in crack
Cons:  Not the best at edging, can be tricky to size just right
Best Uses:  All day climbing, crack climbing, all around
User Rating:     
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 (4.3 of 5) based on 12 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (10/10) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ April 23, 2010  
Overview
The Mythos are one of the oldest climbing shoes out there and still one of the best selling. They stand out for just how soft and comfortable they are. The soft unlined leather is cozy the first day you put it on and stretches as the temps increase and your feet swell. The unique lacing system helps keep this snug but overall this is not to be confused with a high performance edging shoe like the La Sportiva Miura or Five Ten Anasazi VCS. It is much better as an all day cragging shoe or just a shoe for someone who values all-day comfort over micro-edging. If you are looking for for an all-day trad shoe with more edging performance, consider the La Sportiva TC Pro.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Performance Comparison

Likes
This is probably the most comfortable shoe on the market. If you want to stand in a shoe all day, this is it. Anyone who has foot issues (such as bone spurs or injuries) should try these. This shoe also excels at cracks as the "flat foot" position and narrow toe help you wiggle you toes in (as opposed to more aggressive-shaped shoes that bunch your toes up). These have a great shape for smearing but it seems like the stickier Vibram XS Grip rubber would be more appropriate that the XS Edge rubber these use.

Dislikes
I have had a little trouble sizing mine just because they stretch so much and have a different toe position than most other shoes. I really recommend climbing around on them a lot and erring on the side of too small. They don't edge all that well and over time, they tend to get a little sloppy. If you break a lace, relacing them is a major project.

Value
The price is a little on the expensive side but people who buy this shoe tend to love it and use them forever.

Other Versions
La Sportiva Mythos - Women's

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: July 8, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.3)

100% of 10 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
11 Total Ratings
5 star: 45%  (5)
4 star: 36%  (4)
3 star: 18%  (2)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 12 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Jul 8, 2014 - 03:14pm
dpgraham · Climber · Dallas
These were my first shoes, as such I didn't know about the stretch. When I first got them they edged decently, felt great etc. but after a few months they got super sloppy and the laces couldn't go any tighter. So the moral here is if you size them rights I bet they're awesome for long crack routes. I am a big fan of the lace system though, because they go all the way down your foot you can really dial it in (even though it's still not that technical) and I love how the laces go around the ankle and tighten, Kinda weird and maybe a little unnecessary if you sized them right but felt good to tighten and push your foot forward just a little bit. I have since replaced these shoes with the five ten moccasym, size them tight, go through the stretch and (I think) they edge/smear a little better but are still more than comfortable enough to crack climb

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Feb 4, 2011 - 11:30pm
Hummerchine · Climber · East Wenatchee, WA
These are probably the best rock shoe that has ever been made! They fit every foot size; only problem is, you have to buy them REALLY small and suffer until they stretch out to custom fit your foot. After 30+ years of avid climbing and MANY pairs of these shoes, I've switched to Katana's, and now the Miura VS, which is my current favorite. Everything considered the Mythos is hard to beat, but I now like to buy a shoe that fits my foot immediately without the initial suffering…

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Feb 4, 2011 - 09:47am
locker · Climber · CO
Once you get them rip that rubber off those babies, slap some FiveTen C4 rubber on them and you're "GOOD ta GO!!!"…

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Sep 6, 2010 - 01:53pm
guyman · Climber · Moorpark, CA.
If the shoe fits, wear it.

Wow, I have used only Mythos for the last decade.

I have sort of wide feet, with high arches.

The lace system is very adjustable and takes some thinking about it to customize to your feet.

I buy em very snug because they do stretch out. For special hi-performance I buy a pair about 1/2 to one size smaller than my normal ones. I will bust these out for hard/thin edging, 5.12 ish is my max on slabs.

They do everything else very well except off-width….. your ankles will get bloody.

I do recommend these, if they fit your feet.



Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 24, 2010 - 04:46pm
fiddler · Climber · North Reading, MA
These are superb shoes, though not the highest-performance. They fit like gloves, smear well, are decent in cracks, and are absolutely painless on my particular feet. The fancy lacing system seems to help mold the shoe around the foot. The trade-off is that they have very little lateral stiffness, and so are less than optimum for small edges. At one full size down from my street shoes (euro 42 vs. US 10) I can climb in them all day, and could comfortably wear 'em as bedroom slippers. Unless you're climbing edgy 5.12 and up they're the true all-day all-around shoe. They stretch a lot at first (half a size or more), then seem to stabilize. And they resole well, so the initial cost becomes less annoying with time.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Aug 23, 2010 - 07:22pm
 
H · Climber · there and back again
Finally,
A product I am familiar with. Thanks Chris.

Over the years I have had an opportunity to try many shoes. And this is my shoe of choice. They fit my feet perfectly and I can wear them all day. the only drawback I can say is if you ever have to replace the laces its a pain.
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   Aug 23, 2010 - 07:00pm
ExtraBlue · Climber · the ford VT
The real question is why La Sportiva even bothers making other shoes. This is it. Size tight for climbing and after 5 years wears socks with them and use em as techy approach shoes.
-1/2 a point that they dont come in purple anymore

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 23, 2010 - 04:45pm
Brokedownclimber · Climber · Douglas, WY
This a very comfortable climbing shoe for me, as it fits my foot very well; I have very narrow feet.

The upside on perfomance, is it smears and frictions very well and is suited for climbing thin cracks, since the toe is somewhat pointed.

The downside is the shoe doesn't have a midsole without much lateral stiffness, and tiny edges are a bit problematic. It is also a low cut shoe without ankle protection in wide cracks--anything wider than fist will be painful or bloody unless you tape your ankles.

Overall, I think it is a great general purpose shoe, capable of being worn all day.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Aug 23, 2010 - 04:32pm
 
caughtinside · Climber · Davis, CA
For narrow feet. Didn't fit my fat dogs.
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   Jun 28, 2010 - 03:07pm
karodrinker · Climber · San Jose, CA
Had these for the last few months. Bought large enough to wear socks with. Great for pure cracks and long routes, crappy for hard edging/bouldering (probably because of large size/ sloppy fit).

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 28, 2010 - 11:34am
Mark Hudon · Climber · Hood River, OR
My go to shoe!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 22, 2010 - 01:30pm
ps · Climber
A great shoe, for cracks and for sport.

I like the shape of the toe of this shoe for my feet. My second toe is longer than my big toe, so it matches the shape of this shoe since the tip of the shoe is more centered, unlike most curved sport shoes that have the tip centered over to the big toe side.

Reinforcement: These shoes stretch a lot. You have been warned.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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La Sportiva Mythos
La Sportiva Mythos
Credit: LaSportiva.com
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