Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Super-precise on edges and pockets.
Cons: Expensive, not the best for cracks, smearing or multi-pitch.
Best Uses: Bouldering or sport climbing on tiny edges and pockets.
Manufacturer: La Sportiva
From the name, you would think this is the Velcro version of the very popular La Sportiva Miura. In fact, the name is a little misleading as the Miura VS is very different than the Miura. The Miura is more of an all-around shoe that tackles everything from boulders to El Capitan free routes. The Miura VS has a much more aggressive toe down-shape and is more of a precision bouldering and sport climbing shoe. In general, we lean more toward the La Sportiva Solution if you want such a specialized shoe. The solution has more precise fit, softer rubber, more feel, and better toe hooking. If you want a more all-around Velcro shoe, we would go with the Five Ten Anasazi VCS or the good old La Sportiva Miura. But if you don't like the fit/feel/or look of the La Sportiva Solution, this is one of the most precise climbing shoes out there.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
This shoe can stand on impossibly small holds and pockets. For precision edging, it is hard to beat. With three straps of Velcro, the shoe tightens well around the whole foot. It feels more secure than most other Velcro shoes and just as good as many lace-ups.
To really get the most out of this shoe and the aggressive P3 Platform, you need to fit it small. This lets you stand on impossibly small holds and pockets. However, it makes this not a great shoe for cracks, smearing or multi-pitch climbs. Compared to the La Sportiva Miura, it is much more of a specialty shoe. It is ideal for tiny limestone pockets or micro edging on granite like the Buttermilks.
The Vibram XS Edge rubber is relatively durable and precise but not the stickiest rubber. La Sportiva uses the stickier Vibram XS Grip2 on the Solution. The Edge rubber is great if you are standing on tiny edges in varied temperatures, but not as great for sensitive smears and slabs.
This shoe is even more expensive than the Miura: $155 vs $140. This makes it one of the most expensive shoes on the market. To make it worth it, you really need to climb a lot in the applications it is designed for: super precision footwork at your limit.
Dream in Vertical
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: November 26, 2012
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