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La Sportiva Miura VS Review

   
Top Pick Award

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.5/5
Overall avg rating 4.5 of 5 based on 11 reviews. Most recent review: July 4, 2014
Street Price:   Varies from $136 - $170 | Compare prices at 11 resellers
Pros:  Super-precise on edges and pockets.
Cons:  Expensive, not the best for cracks, smearing or multi-pitch.
Best Uses:  Bouldering or sport climbing on tiny edges and pockets.
User Rating:     
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 (4.8 of 5) based on 10 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (7/7) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ November 26, 2012  
Overview
From the name, you would think this is the Velcro version of the very popular La Sportiva Miura. In fact, the name is a little misleading as the Miura VS is very different than the Miura. The Miura is more of an all-around shoe that tackles everything from boulders to El Capitan free routes. The Miura VS has a much more aggressive toe down-shape and is more of a precision bouldering and sport climbing shoe. In general, we lean more toward the La Sportiva Solution if you want such a specialized shoe. The solution has more precise fit, softer rubber, more feel, and better toe hooking. If you want a more all-around Velcro shoe, we would go with the Five Ten Anasazi VCS or the good old La Sportiva Miura. But if you don't like the fit/feel/or look of the La Sportiva Solution, this is one of the most precise climbing shoes out there.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
This shoe can stand on impossibly small holds and pockets. For precision edging, it is hard to beat. With three straps of Velcro, the shoe tightens well around the whole foot. It feels more secure than most other Velcro shoes and just as good as many lace-ups.

Dislikes
To really get the most out of this shoe and the aggressive P3 Platform, you need to fit it small. This lets you stand on impossibly small holds and pockets. However, it makes this not a great shoe for cracks, smearing or multi-pitch climbs. Compared to the La Sportiva Miura, it is much more of a specialty shoe. It is ideal for tiny limestone pockets or micro edging on granite like the Buttermilks.

Rubber
The Vibram XS Edge rubber is relatively durable and precise but not the stickiest rubber. La Sportiva uses the stickier Vibram XS Grip2 on the Solution. The Edge rubber is great if you are standing on tiny edges in varied temperatures, but not as great for sensitive smears and slabs.

Value
This shoe is even more expensive than the Miura: $155 vs $140. This makes it one of the most expensive shoes on the market. To make it worth it, you really need to climb a lot in the applications it is designed for: super precision footwork at your limit.

Other Versions
La Sportiva Miura VS - Women's , $170.
La Sportiva Miura - Women's, $160, lace up version.
La Sportiva Miura - Men's, $160, lace up version.

Other Reviews
Dream in Vertical

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: July 4, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.8)

100% of 7 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 71%  (5)
4 star: 29%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 10 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Jul 4, 2014 - 05:58am
JimH · Climber · Denver CO
Chris's review is spot-on as usual. This is a super shoe for vertical sport and anything in the gym. Absolutely melds itself to sand dollar edges and nubbins, great in pockets. The fit is great for my medium arch, high volume foot, at about 1/2 Euro size smaller than street size (these in 43.5 are perfect on my normally 44 or 44.5 EU, 10.5 D+ foot). The three Velcro straps work very well - burly, you can crank on them. The shape will really scrunch up the big toe - expect a little discomfort until your foot breaks in. But that's why they work like staple guns on small edges and nubbins - all force is to the point of contact, with no slop. It helps that they are fast to put on and lash down - the wide-mouth tongue and heel pulls are just perfect. I'd never wear these on a multi-pitch (TC Pros for that), but for sport/gym - hard to beat this shoe.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   May 30, 2014 - 02:14pm
Kukubau · Climber · Regensburg, Germany
I've just bought this and it is an amazing all around shoe. My only concern is, should I return it and size it another 1/2 number down to have it snug fit as my toes would curl to a point it would hurt? I wear a 43,5 size for street shoes and the Miura VS I bought are 41,5, but I feel I could go down another half number. Should I have them changed so I will not be sorry after the break-in?
Thanks

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Oct 17, 2013 - 06:13pm
Lu.MA · Climber · Italia
I've been climbing for 6 years, sometimes consistently and sometimes sporadically, and, apart from the beginning, I have had just 2 pairs of shoes: Miura and Miura VS.
First point: they are shoes conceived to do the same thing (give you an edge on small edges), but the latter are far superior to the former. In all honesty, I don't understand why one should go for the Miura when s/he can have the Miura VS.
Miura VS are amazing: I have been climbing with them for the last 2 years, I resoled them once (now they are in need of a second pit-stop), and they are like new: excellent durability (thanks to the revolutionary P3 system).
On micro edges and pockets they are amazing, they do all the work (still after 2 years)! You really feel you can climb everywhere with them.
They have just one issue: due to their shape, they are horrible for friction climbing. Just to be clear:
slab climbing with them on micro edges: amazing (there is nothing better, I suppose)
slab climbing with them on nothing (friction): very bad
Take this in consideration, if you are doing friction climbing all the time.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 11, 2012 - 12:42am
Hummerchine · Climber · East Wenatchee, WA
I think this is currently the best climbing shoe on the market, and that is after 35 years of extensive rock climbing. Love the shoe, love the review. Especially enjoyed the remark about it being quite different from the Miura. Sportiva does rule and all, but did they run out of names or what? I feel similar to the Katana and Katana lace-up…very different shoes.

The only thing I disagree with is about having to fit them tight. I always have, but recently bought a bigger pair for long routes and climbing trips…they are not only still awesome, but even better at smears and cracks!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jun 10, 2012 - 02:12pm
Stonecutter · Climber · Portland, ME
I have used both the Miuras and Solutions from La Sportiva. Both are amazing. The Miuras have a slight edge when it comes to edging. They can toe tiny pockets and chips like no other. But the Solutions have superior toe-hooks, heel-hooks, and toe sensitivity; and, from what I've found so far, durability as well. You can't go wrong with the Miuras, but I personally favor the Solutions.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Oct 10, 2011 - 06:21pm
PHotY · Climber · Columbia, Mo
this was my second pair of climbing shoes ever and they are great.

the edge stayed perfect for almost 3 months of indoor and outdoor climbing. the rubber is super hard and I have not worn it down in almost a year. the sole of the shoe stays very stiff and adds a lot of support on those small edges. since the shoes is made with natural materials, there is no odder even after long, sweaty days.

this shoe works best as a semi-aggressive bouldering shoe. it holds a good edge on small ledges, the sole-curve helps on overhang footholds, and is great for toeing.

this is not a good shoe for long climbs and multi-pitches. i wore these for a two hour, 4-pitch and thought my toes were broken. also, the heal slides off a little on hard heal-hook pulls. the velcro strap closest to the toe is poorly placed and rubs when flagging. i have almost worn the strap down to were it will tear soon.

my grips with this shoe are limited. it is an excellent shoe for bouldering and short climbs. one year of hard climbing (indoor and out) and the rubber is still pretty solid. this is a high-quality shoe and i will resole it many times before i get a new pair. its expensive, but i will use it for many years.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Sep 10, 2010 - 01:53am
 
karodrinker · Climber · San Jose, CA
Mine sure need a resole. Locker? Who does good sportivas? These were so sweet when the rubber was new.
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   Sep 10, 2010 - 12:30am
Hummerchine · Climber · East Wenatchee, WA
Don't know why they named these what they did, because they are a very different shoe than the Miura! Did Sportiva run out of names? You would assume they they are just a velcro version of the Miura…WRONG! The Miura is canvas lined, these are not. Personally, I love Sportiva shoes, but have never been that keen on the Miura…even though everybody else seems to be. They are a good trad shoe for Indian Creek, but for me don't edge all that great…and are not all that sensitive…perhaps I just don't buy them brutally tight enough. The VS, however, edge fantastic and are also incredibly sensitive…without having to endure agonizing pain to achieve that! Simply a wonderful shoe…and I have friends who feel the same!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Jul 24, 2010 - 08:31pm
 
jclimb1 · Climber · Moab, UT
Not sure if the souls will depart but the soles might.
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0 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
Jun 14, 2010 - 02:57pm
 
weschrist · Climber · left sac
Do the souls come off these after 2 weeks, like they did on the last 4 pairs of Miura's I bought?
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La Sportiva Miura VS
Credit: www.sportiva.com
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