Overall avg rating 4.3 of 5 based on 8 reviews. Most recent review: November 26, 2012
Street Price:
Varies from $96 - $170 | Compare prices at 10 resellers Pros: Super-precise on edges and pockets. Cons: Expensive, not the best for cracks, smearing or multi-pitch. Best Uses: Bouldering or sport climbing on tiny edges and pockets.
Recommendations: 100% of reviewers (4/4) recommend this product Manufacturer: La Sportiva
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ November 26, 2012
Overview
From the name, you would think this is the Velcro version of the very popular La Sportiva Miura. In fact, the name is a little misleading as the Miura VS is very different than the Miura. The Miura is more of an all-around shoe that tackles everything from boulders to El Capitan free routes. The Miura VS has a much more aggressive toe down-shape and is more of a precision bouldering and sport climbing shoe. In general, we lean more toward the La Sportiva Solution if you want such a specialized shoe. The solution has more precise fit, softer rubber, more feel, and better toe hooking. If you want a more all-around Velcro shoe, we would go with the Five Ten Anasazi VCS or the good old La Sportiva Miura. But if you don't like the fit/feel/or look of the La Sportiva Solution, this is one of the most precise climbing shoes out there.
Likes
This shoe can stand on impossibly small holds and pockets. For precision edging, it is hard to beat. With three straps of Velcro, the shoe tightens well around the whole foot. It feels more secure than most other Velcro shoes and just as good as many lace-ups.
Dislikes
To really get the most out of this shoe and the aggressive P3 Platform, you need to fit it small. This lets you stand on impossibly small holds and pockets. However, it makes this not a great shoe for cracks, smearing or multi-pitch climbs. Compared to the La Sportiva Miura, it is much more of a specialty shoe. It is ideal for tiny limestone pockets or micro edging on granite like the Buttermilks.
Rubber
The Vibram XS Edge rubber is relatively durable and precise but not the stickiest rubber. La Sportiva uses the stickier Vibram XS Grip2 on the Solution. The Edge rubber is great if you are standing on tiny edges in varied temperatures, but not as great for sensitive smears and slabs.
Value
This shoe is even more expensive than the Miura: $155 vs $140. This makes it one of the most expensive shoes on the market. To make it worth it, you really need to climb a lot in the applications it is designed for: super precision footwork at your limit.
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I think this is currently the best climbing shoe on the market, and that is after 35 years of extensive rock climbing. Love the shoe, love the review. Especially enjoyed the remark about it being quite different from the Miura. Sportiva does rule and all, but did they run out of names or what? I feel similar to the Katana and Katana lace-up…very different shoes.
The only thing I disagree with is about having to fit them tight. I always have, but recently bought a bigger pair for long routes and climbing trips…they are not only still awesome, but even better at smears and cracks!
Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
I have used both the Miuras and Solutions from La Sportiva. Both are amazing. The Miuras have a slight edge when it comes to edging. They can toe tiny pockets and chips like no other. But the Solutions have superior toe-hooks, heel-hooks, and toe sensitivity; and, from what I've found so far, durability as well. You can't go wrong with the Miuras, but I personally favor the Solutions.
Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
this was my second pair of climbing shoes ever and they are great.
the edge stayed perfect for almost 3 months of indoor and outdoor climbing. the rubber is super hard and I have not worn it down in almost a year. the sole of the shoe stays very stiff and adds a lot of support on those small edges. since the shoes is made with natural materials, there is no odder even after long, sweaty days.
this shoe works best as a semi-aggressive bouldering shoe. it holds a good edge on small ledges, the sole-curve helps on overhang footholds, and is great for toeing.
this is not a good shoe for long climbs and multi-pitches. i wore these for a two hour, 4-pitch and thought my toes were broken. also, the heal slides off a little on hard heal-hook pulls. the velcro strap closest to the toe is poorly placed and rubs when flagging. i have almost worn the strap down to were it will tear soon.
my grips with this shoe are limited. it is an excellent shoe for bouldering and short climbs. one year of hard climbing (indoor and out) and the rubber is still pretty solid. this is a high-quality shoe and i will resole it many times before i get a new pair. its expensive, but i will use it for many years.
Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
Don't know why they named these what they did, because they are a very different shoe than the Miura! Did Sportiva run out of names? You would assume they they are just a velcro version of the Miura…WRONG! The Miura is canvas lined, these are not. Personally, I love Sportiva shoes, but have never been that keen on the Miura…even though everybody else seems to be. They are a good trad shoe for Indian Creek, but for me don't edge all that great…and are not all that sensitive…perhaps I just don't buy them brutally tight enough. The VS, however, edge fantastic and are also incredibly sensitive…without having to endure agonizing pain to achieve that! Simply a wonderful shoe…and I have friends who feel the same!
Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
