Hands-on Gear Review
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Pros: Great edging, sticky rubber.
Cons: Expensive, not the most sensitive.
Best Uses: Technical face climbs, edging, bouldering.
Manufacturer: La Sportiva
The La Sportiva Miura stands out as an edging machine. Tommy Caldwell did most of his wicked technical El Capitan free ascents in this shoe before switching to his signature La Sportiva TC Pro. Out of the box, the Miura's are among the best shoes for standing on tiny stuff. As they break in, as with most shoes, they lose some precision and become a little more sensitive on slabs.
Overall this is one of the most popular technical climbing shoes. For all-day climbs you might also consider the La Sportiva TC Pro that has more durable rubber and is a more supportive climbing shoe. But as far as an awesome technical shoe for experienced climbers, this is among the best. Sportiva's only shoe that is more precise is the La Sportiva Solution which is great for bouldering. For most cragging routes, sport routes, and trad routes, the Miura is probably the best option. It is much more of an all-around shoe than the La Sportiva Miura VS. The Miura VS is more of edging machine but not as versatile. Its main competition is the Five Ten Anasazi VCS, which is also an edging machine. It's hard for us to call which is our favorite because they both are amazing at edging and technical climbs in general. We lean more toward the Anazazi VCS for granite and the the Miura for limestone.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
The Miura is all about technical edging, precise foot placements and climbing at your limit on a variety of rock types. The angled cut of the toe allows it fit easily in technical laybacks. The uppers are well designed with high quality leather. The Vibram XS Edge rubber is durable and holds an edge well. Depending on how you size it, it works well in cracks, something that the other super high end La Sportiva shoes (Solution and Miura VS) are not as suited for.
This shoe is not that sensitive, especially when brand new. It is not ideal for friction smearing. The XS Edge rubber is not as tacky, soft or sensitive as the XS Grip rubber used on the Solution. There are pros and cons to this rubber. Some people will love it, others will be used to something a little more tacky. Toe hooking is often more difficult due to the widely spaced laces that do not hook or catch well.
This shoe ain't cheap. It's generally a shoe you buy once you become a more experienced climber and want that extra precision. For an introductory shoe or a workhorse shoe to trash there are much cheaper alternatives like the Mad Rock Flash.
This is one of the top climbing shoes for anything technical, whether it's granite or limestone. It is the type of shoe that you want to get pretty small and tight for super technical stuff and a little bigger if you want to climb all-day routes. In contrast, the TC Pro is designed to perform well even when worn in a more comfortable size. It is La Sportiva's most versatile shoe at the upper end of performance.
The La Sportiva Miura VS seems like it would be the Velcro version of this shoe. However, it is actually much different. It uses a more aggressive shape and platform, different lining and all-around different feel. It is a great shoe, but much different.
Miura's In Action
Here is a Video of Tommy Caldwell that shows the La Sportiva Miura in action on Mescalito, El Capitan, Yosemite:
— Chris McNamara
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: April 19, 2012
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