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La Sportiva Miura Review

   
Editors' Choice Award

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.8/5
Overall avg rating 4.8 of 5 based on 8 reviews. Most recent review: April 19, 2012
Street Price:   Varies from $128 - $160 | Compare prices at 9 resellers
Pros:  Great edging, sticky rubber.
Cons:  Expensive, not the most sensitive.
Best Uses:  Technical face climbs, edging, bouldering.
User Rating:     
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 (4.7 of 5) based on 7 reviews
Recommendations:  83% of reviewers (5/6) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   La Sportiva
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ April 19, 2012  
Overview
The La Sportiva Miura stands out as an edging machine. Tommy Caldwell did most of his wicked technical El Capitan free ascents in this shoe before switching to his signature La Sportiva TC Pro. Out of the box, the Miura's are among the best shoes for standing on tiny stuff. As they break in, as with most shoes, they lose some precision and become a little more sensitive on slabs.

Overall this is one of the most popular technical climbing shoes. For all-day climbs you might also consider the La Sportiva TC Pro that has more durable rubber and is a more supportive climbing shoe. But as far as an awesome technical shoe for experienced climbers, this is among the best. Sportiva's only shoe that is more precise is the La Sportiva Solution which is great for bouldering. For most cragging routes, sport routes, and trad routes, the Miura is probably the best option. It is much more of an all-around shoe than the La Sportiva Miura VS. The Miura VS is more of edging machine but not as versatile. Its main competition is the Five Ten Anasazi VCS, which is also an edging machine. It's hard for us to call which is our favorite because they both are amazing at edging and technical climbs in general. We lean more toward the Anazazi VCS for granite and the the Miura for limestone.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
The Miura is all about technical edging, precise foot placements and climbing at your limit on a variety of rock types. The angled cut of the toe allows it fit easily in technical laybacks. The uppers are well designed with high quality leather. The Vibram XS Edge rubber is durable and holds an edge well. Depending on how you size it, it works well in cracks, something that the other super high end La Sportiva shoes (Solution and Miura VS) are not as suited for.

Dislikes
This shoe is not that sensitive, especially when brand new. It is not ideal for friction smearing. The XS Edge rubber is not as tacky, soft or sensitive as the XS Grip rubber used on the Solution. There are pros and cons to this rubber. Some people will love it, others will be used to something a little more tacky. Toe hooking is often more difficult due to the widely spaced laces that do not hook or catch well.

Value
This shoe ain't cheap. It's generally a shoe you buy once you become a more experienced climber and want that extra precision. For an introductory shoe or a workhorse shoe to trash there are much cheaper alternatives like the Mad Rock Flash.

Best Application
This is one of the top climbing shoes for anything technical, whether it's granite or limestone. It is the type of shoe that you want to get pretty small and tight for super technical stuff and a little bigger if you want to climb all-day routes. In contrast, the TC Pro is designed to perform well even when worn in a more comfortable size. It is La Sportiva's most versatile shoe at the upper end of performance.

Other Versions
The La Sportiva Miura VS seems like it would be the Velcro version of this shoe. However, it is actually much different. It uses a more aggressive shape and platform, different lining and all-around different feel. It is a great shoe, but much different.

Miura's In Action
Here is a Video of Tommy Caldwell that shows the La Sportiva Miura in action on Mescalito, El Capitan, Yosemite:


Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: April 19, 2012
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.7)

83% of 6 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
7 Total Ratings
5 star: 86%  (6)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 14%  (1)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 7 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Dec 5, 2011 - 10:47am
jeepnphreak · Climber · Bzn, mt
For sport climbing these are my go to shoes. They edge very well. I have had my current shoes for two years and are on their second re-sole.
For crack climbing the murias are quite un-comforable. the durability is good,I have not had any of the delamination issues that a few people claim to have. For steep, dime edging I highly recomend the miuras. For crack climbign and smearing I would recomend another shoe more suited for that kind of climbing.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Feb 3, 2011 - 12:16pm
freerider · Climber
this shoe is my favorite. i used it for everything. slabs, cracks, face, overhangs, roofs.
the heel hook, and toe hook could be better but i rarely do that anyways.
only dislike is that they do not last long enough, and are much too expensive.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 8, 2012 - 11:34am
Guinness_Love · Climber · San Diego, California
I love this shoe it is my go to for any and all climbing. I have had these resoled twice so far and I will continue to keep these until I have worn them out completely.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 17, 2010 - 09:11pm
weschrist · Climber · left sac
I am desperately looking for a replacement shoe. These things climb great, but start to delaminate after a month of climbing. 5 pairs of mine and 8 pairs of friends all did the same thing.

If you want the best shoe for a month and don't mind paying that much, go for it. I'm waiting for a higher quality offspring.

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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   May 1, 2010 - 07:23pm
MS1 · Climber · Chicago, IL
Size these tight, because they stretch significantly. These are the best shoes I have ever worn for thin edging. What is even better is that once they stretched out they were surprisingly comfortable for a high-performance shoe.

If you want a shoe that does just about everything well, and are willing to pay for it, these are great.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Sep 9, 2010 - 02:45am
bearbreeder · Climber
best sport and hard crack shoe i tried

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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0 of 2 people found the following review helpful:
Nov 7, 2010 - 10:05am
 
Tony Bird · Climber · Northridge, CA
miuras seem the best among the generally available, but we don't seem to have the choices we used to have, even in the best climbing shops. i want to try them on before i buy them. i don't want to make UPS rich by playing that game with mail order.

i saw a pair of cobras in an impressive send of annihilator, an edging masterpiece at echo about a year ago. they looked to be better at what they did than miuras. the cobra's cousin, the viper, is supposed to be good too. and i saw a large selection of remnant acopa models for sale at wilson's last summer--wish i knew my way around them.

for a review to be really worthwhile, real experts need to get in depth and differentiate. most reviewing is way too rushed and limited in scope.
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La Sportiva Miura
La Sportiva Miura
Credit: sportiva.com
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