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Five Ten Anasazi VCS Review

   

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.2/5
Overall avg rating 4.2 of 5 based on 3 reviews. Most recent review: October 13, 2014
Street Price:   $160 | Compare prices at 6 resellers
Pros:  Very sensitive, Very sticky rubber, Aolid all-arounder
Cons:  Not the best edging shoe, Velcro can hurt in cracks
Best Uses:  Granite sport or trad, Beginner shoe
User Rating:     
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 (4.5 of 5) based on 2 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (2/2) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Five Ten
Review by: Thomas Greene ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ September 19, 2014  
Overview
The Anasazi VCS is more at home on granite than welded tuff or limestone pockets. They trade in a little in the edging department for their incredible sensitivity. When contrasted to the La Sportiva Miura, Miura VCS, or TC Pro, the Anasazi VCS feels soft, lacking the pin-point accuracy of La Sportiva shoes. They compensate for any deficit in the edging department with their incredibly sticky rubber, easily the best on the market.

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  • Photos
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

The 5.10 Anasazi VCS is the unicorn of the climbing world: a hyper precise all-around crusher that doesn't hurt so much you want to throw it off a cliff. Eminently comfortable without being sloppy, these shoes manage to be both decently stiff and incredibly sensitive.

This shoe allows the climber to feel virtually every feature in the rock, making even micro features feel like ledges. They offer all the sensitivity of your gym socks with enough rigidity for standing in the gnarliest of cracks. On anything other than the worst foot jams, you won't even notice the velcro. These shoes do it all pretty well.

Performance Comparison
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The Anasazi VCS on edges in Smith Rocks, OR.
Credit: Lyra Pierotti

Edging
The Anasazi VCS definitely holds an edge, and when you're wearing them you feel like they could climb anything. It's only when you wear multiple shoes in a short period of time (the luxury of testing shoes) that you really notice any deficiency. This shoe excels where friction is king, completely at home on Joshua Tree granite. Where you start to notice the difference is on small edges on slick rock. The Anasazi feels like it could get spit off, forcing you to adapt your climbing style to be very over your feet. That isn't necessarily a bad thing, and certainly not a game-ender, more of a disclaimer.
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The incredible smearing of the Anasazi VCS will let you stick to anything.

Crack Climbing
Though the rubber is a little on the soft side for cracks and the velcro closure can get in the way, the shoe is surprisingly adept on this terrain. The velcro is high enough on the shoe that it's only an issue on the really wide stuff. The buckles on the inside can be painful if pressed on, and you won't feel inspired to stand around in a crack if that's happening. Overall, the shoe is sufficiently rigid to withstand significant torquing in jams and standing flat in cracks is very comfortable. If your local crags have a ton of traditional climbing, it might be worth looking into the La Sportiva TC Pro or La Sportiva Mythos as alternatives.

Pockets
We all have styles of climbing that are hard for us, and pockets are it for the Anasazi VCS. The softer, semi-rounded toe does well on pockets that are the right size at not too steep of an angle. Anything smaller than three fingers, and this shoe starts to require some creative twisting to mush the toe into whatever room you've got. The shoe is also flat, meaning that at a certain angle it just can't hold on anymore. The La Sportiva Katana Lace is a great all-arounder that picks up where flatter shoes such as the Anasazi VCS and TC Pro start to fall short.
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Climbing shoes collected for testing.
Credit: Thomas Greene

Sensitivity
The ONYXX rubber used on this shoe is not only very sticky, it also allows you to feel virtually every feature in the rock. The Anasazi VCS accomplishes this without losing shape or relying on the climber's foot for structure. As previously mentioned, this at the expense of some edging ability. This shoe really is in a very small club in terms of its incredible performance on granite slab and face climbs where friction rules.

Comfort
Out of the box, this is one of the most comfortable high-end shoes we tested. A flat foot and slightly rounded toe don't compromise its performance at all, and greatly increase its all-day wearability. We would recommend this shoe as a great beginner shoe for its excellent all-around performance combined with enough comfort to encourage daily trips to the gym or crag. This would be a great multi-pitch granite trad or sport shoe.
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Taking a lap after getting rained off Forbidden Peak, Mt. Eerie, WA.
Credit: Thomas Greene

Best Applications
This makes a great beginner's shoe. Minimal to no suffering is required during the wear-in period, and they perform extremely well at just on size down from normal. Use them at your favorite granite crag for sport or trad. They dodn't perform as well on edges as other shoes but still climb well everywhere. For an all-arounder with better edging, look at the La Sportiva Miura, or the Editors' Choice winning Katana Lace, both offer a down-turned toe and slightly harder rubber.

Value
A few internet searches have advertised these shoes for considerably less than their list price. If you find them at that lower price you'd be stoked. A combination of durability, all-around performance, and comfort makes this shoe an excellent value.

Other Versions
The Five Ten Anasazi LV - Women's, $155, wins our Top Pick Award, as it is an all-around climbing shoe that is comfortable and still performs well. Its very sticky rubber is great for smearing and its comfortable fit is good for any kind of climbing.

The Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco, $150, is one of the highest performing sport climbing shoes out there. Five Ten claims more 5.14's have been climbed with the original Anasazi Lace-Up than any other shoe.

The Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Pink, $150, are back! This new version has an improved heel which is the most drastic change and also a much needed improvement. The new heel cup fits more snug allowing greater control when heel-hooking. The uppers are also lined with synthetic Cowdura to keep them from stretching out too much. All in all, the new improvements seem great!

Conclusion
The Anasazi VCS sits among some great company in the competition for the title of best all-around climbing shoe. With only a very marginal difference in price, it really comes down to what fits your foot the best and where you'll be climbing. This shoe would be a better choice for granite, gneiss, gritstone, and sandstone. It would also be a great beginner shoe, offering a comfortable platform that will likely stay ahead of you grade limit for a few seasons.

Make sure these shoes fit well right out of the box, they stretch out very little even when well worn-in.

Thomas Greene

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: October 13, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 5
 (4.5)

100% of 2 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
3 Total Ratings
5 star: 33%  (1)
4 star: 67%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 2 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Sep 28, 2014 - 11:43am
dpgraham · Climber · Dallas
Ok to start off, this shoe is amazing. Downsize 1 from street shoe and they edge like a dream. I don't know what the review is talking about these being sensitive? WHAT!?! This shoe uses ONYX rubber which I'm pretty sure is the stiffer (better edging) but slightly less sticky version of stealth C4 (not as sensitive), try on the mocs then vcs and compare and you'll see what I mean.
These shoe are a superb all a rounder:
great edging and smearing
flat enough to be worn for long periods of time
a good shape for heel hooks, it's 'meh' at toe hooks

The biggest gripe I've heard about this shoe is the heal actually pushes your foot forward into the front of the shoe. This results in better edging but can be quite uncomfortable on the achilles. It has never bothered me though.

This review makes no sense, what happened to the old one by Chris Mcnamara?
at the top it says its' best use is a beginner shoe but at the bottom says it's "the most comfortable high-end shoes we tested."
Again I'll say I disagree with the reviewer and say these shoes edge extremely well, but lack sensitivity. Try on and decide for yourself.

Also I'm no grammar nazi but if you're writing a professional review you shouldn't misspell "Solid" in the pros at the top.
Click to enlarge
you can't tell by the photo but the wall is at 45 degrees overhung and these shoes still did great with all the small edges. the Dungeon NM
Credit: dpgraham


Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Oct 13, 2014 - 08:30pm
I agree with Dpgraham.

I have yet to find an application that this shoe doesn't do very well to at least moderately well. What happened to the old Chris McNamara review? I downsized this shoe a full size and with the upper cowdura material I was able to wear it comfortably and edge incredibly well on micro granite features.

I've definitely sent my hardest projects in this shoe, granted I'm only leading mid grade .12's.

This shoe also used to be an editor's choice as well as the Miura lace up (which is also a different review).

Not sure what happened here at ODGL but seeing some inconsistencies in the editor's reviews!

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Five Ten Anasazi VCS
Credit: FiveTen.com
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