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Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco Review

   

Climbing Shoes - Men's

  • Currently 4.3/5
Overall avg rating 4.3 of 5 based on 8 reviews. Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Street Price:   $165 | Compare prices at 1 resellers
Pros:  Extremely precise, great at standing on tiny edges and small pockets.
Cons:  Expensive, takes time to get on and off, not comfortable for all-day climbs.
Best Uses:  Technical sport climbs and boulder problems.
User Rating:     
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 (4.4 of 5) based on 7 reviews
Recommendations:  86% of reviewers (6/7) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   Five Ten Anasazi
Review by: Chris McNamara ⋅ Founder and Editor-in-Chief, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ February 20, 2010  
Overview
The Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco is one of the highest performing sport climbing shoes out there. Five Ten claims more 5.14's have been climbed with the original Anasazi Lace-Up than any other shoe. We can't validate the claim but it seems true, especially based on our own experience. We don't climb 5.14, but can say this shoe makes a big difference on hard, technical sport climbs. This shoe was recently updated and the name changed from Anasazi Lace-Up to Anasazi Lace-Up Blanco. The main changes are a snugger fitting heal and the change of the uppers to synthetic material. The idea is that this shoe will fit better and stretch less and make the shoe even more precise. This shoe uses the traditional Steal C4 rubber. The the Five Ten Anasazi Verde uses the new Stealth Onyxx Rubber.

Now that most performance shoes have a down-turned toe, these seem old school compared to something like the Five Ten Arrowhead. For people who want a performance shoe with a more conservative and traditional design, this one is hard to beat.

We would use a slightly softer-soled shoe like the Five Ten Anasazi VCS as the everyday sport climbing shoe and save this one as the redpoint shoe. Another shoe to compare this to is the La Sportiva Miura. Both are technical climbing masters. The Anasazi Lace-Up is ideal for more experienced climbers. For beginning climbers, we would recommend a cheaper and more comfortable shoe like the Mad Rock Flash.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
This shoe stands out for just how precise it is. Its relatively stiff sole means you can stand on really tiny edges smaller than you probably thought was possible. The pointy toe is ideal for small pockets, which is why this shoe excels on steep volcanic rock and limestone. The rubber is as sticky as it comes. The shoe smears better than more modern shoe designs with an aggressive twisted shape.

Dislikes
It has such an asymetrical toe that it is not ideal for longer climbs unless you get it really big. We wouldn't do that because the whole point of this shoe is to have a tight, high performance secret weapon for those climbs at your limit where you need every little advantage. It's not a comfortable shoe (but it is not supposed to be). Get it tight and feel every micron of the rock! Like any lace shoe, it takes a bit to get on and off. That is one reason we do most of our climbing in the Anasazi VCS. Either you have to make an effort to keep this shoe clean or accept that it will show all the wear you have put it through. There is no rubber on top of the toe for toe hooking, which new school climbers may find a big drawback.

Value
This shoe is expensive; it's priced like the high-performance shoe it is. If you are looking for every little advantage on technical routes, it is worth it.

Video on the Features of the Anasazi Line

Chris McNamara

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.4)

86% of 7 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
8 Total Ratings
5 star: 63%  (5)
4 star: 25%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 13%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 7 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Apr 18, 2014 - 07:31pm
Megaxr · Climber · Brazil/Spain
It's perfect. I really enjoy climbing indoors, outdoors, cracks and everything with these shoes.
I never tryied it on multi-pitch climb, but i know that I can stay 2 hours with the shoes.
For me it's quite comfort, i really like how it fits in my foot, but in the beginning it was very painful and difficult to wear it.

The only cons: Doesn't have rubber for toe hooking.

But still, it is a 5 star shoe.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 18, 2014 - 04:38pm
Elcapinyoazz · Climber · Joshua Tree
This is my go-to hard, sub-vertical granite route shoe. Precision edging, excellent heel cup, ideal stiffness. It's essentially a Verde with more rand tension and C4 instead of Onyxx, or an updated version of the old pink without the horrible heel those had.

Bagging on this shoe because it didn't fit you is beyond stupid. Not every last will fit every foot. I can't fit Muiras, or most Sportiva for that matter, but they are great for people they fit well. The Blanco isn't on my feet for most of my routes (do more pitches in the velcro for sport or the mocs for cracks), but when it turns thin and techy, these are the ones. And while I wouldn't want to climb pitch after pitch of hand or thin hands cracks in them since you will fit them with bent toes, once you can't get a toe in the crack anyway they are excellent crack climbing shoes allowing you to milk tiny edge or toe off the offset/edge.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 18, 2014 - 01:48pm
WML · Climber · Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
This shoe is fantastic. I love stiff shoes and this can edge on a dime, smear on nothing, and while not a 'crack shoe' can hold its own on difficult (for me) cracks. Now if only I had the technique to utilize these properly!

Durability has been great, no foot funk stench like the old blue Anasazi slippers got. My only moderate complaint is that the heel, much like the VCS version, is baggy. I don't do much heel hooking in lace-ups, but if for some very strange reason I needed to, I might be in trouble. Not enough to reduce a star though, five star product! Sucks they discontinued them.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 10, 2012 - 02:48am
Brian · Climber · California
Brilliant edging/smedging shoes.
Decent smearing.
Not so fun for cracks (since I've got 'em super tight).

This is my go-to shoe on hard or run-out routes. For years my friends with Miuras told me those shoes were "like cheating," but I could never get the Muiras to fit my feet. The Blanco's are my cheating shoes. They're fecking amazing.

They won't stretch a bit, though the do break in, so what you see/feel is what you get and you don't have to worry about sizing. Since these are my hard climbin shoes, I've got 'em tight enough so my toes are knuckled. They can stand on anything. Can't say enough good about them. They are on their second sole (first resole) and still going strong.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 9, 2012 - 02:21pm
Ron Anderson · Climber · USA Carson city Nev.
Tried these out the other day..While the rubber is as usual,,,great,,i found gaps in the fit including the arch, and sides of heel which moved a little, and gave the shoe a tendanccy to roll a bit…Toe shape uncomfortable if you get them tight enough to perform.

Bottom Line: No, I would not recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 9, 2010 - 01:24am
amyas · Climber · Meadow Lake SK
Good: Super nimble, tiny ledges and pockets are like standing on a table. Looks really nice. Heel cup is great.
Bad: Not comfy. Great for pushing grades if its a few pitches max, after that they hurt.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 7, 2010 - 03:33pm
Chivey101 · Climber · Colchester
I just love these shoes, they are tight but the grip really is as good as they claim. And they don't stain your feet a funny colour.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Five Ten Anasazi Lace-Up
Credit: FiveTen.com
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