Hands-on Gear Review |
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Pros: Durable, great price, easy to clean Cons: Heavy, Not as useful in flaring cracks Best Uses: Trad climbing
Overview
Omega Pacific Wedgies might have a strange name but they are a great foundation for any climber's rack. Wedgies are also among the better priced nuts we tested. In addition to their competitive price you get a Caranut nut tool when purchasing their standard set. Omega Pacific was the first company to make the heads of their nuts anodized, a feature now nearly standard in the industry. The Wedgies' design is very similar to that of Black Diamond Stoppers and identical to the ABC Huevos, which Omega Pacific makes for ABC. Wedgies and Huevos are tied for having the second largest range of sizes in their standard set.
OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
Likes
Through side-by-side comparisons we found that Omega Pacific Wedgies were easier to clean than most other models — a hair easier than Black Diamond Stoppers and much easier than Metolius Curve Nuts and DMM Wallnuts. Wedgies are among the most durable nuts on the market; their wires rarely start kinking and the nuts themselves never seem to get to thrashed. Omega Pacific also makes one of the bigger size ranges for aluminum nuts. The range was a bit smaller than that of Wild Country Rocks on a Wire but Wedgies offered a slightly more useful size range. Omega Pacific was the first company to make anodized heads, which makes for easy size recognition. They fit parallel cracks well, performing about the same as Wild Country Rocks on a Wire or BD Stoppers and not quite as well as DMM Wallnuts or Metolius Curve Nuts. Their smaller nuts placed well but their medium to large nuts were average. Dislikes Omega Pacific Wedgies don't fit in as wide a range of cracks as DMM Alloy Offsets, Wallnuts or Metolius Curve Nuts in middle and larger sizes (above size #5 or #6). However, we did love their smaller sizes below #5 or #6. On the whole their fit versatility was about the same as for BD Stoppers, ABC Huevos or Wild Country Rocks. Omega Pacific Wedgies, along with ABC Huevos, are nearly the heaviest in the review. Only Frost Works Sentinel nuts are heavier. Best Application Wedgies are an excellent option for climbers looking to buy a set of nuts without spending too much money. They make a good set for beginners because of their large continuous size run, solid durability, decent placement versatility and relative ease of cleaning. Plus, a complete set comes with a Caranut tool — how can you argue with that? As one of the heavier nuts, Wedgies are a poor choice for alpine climbers, mountaineers or anybody trying to save weight. Value With the free Caranut tool, a set of Omega Pacific Wedgies is one of the best priced group in this review. Wedgies performed in placement about the same as BD Stoppers and ABC Huevos but were slightly easier to clean than BD Stoppers. They were on a par with more expensive nuts in regards to durability, sizes available, size overlap and small size performance. — Ian Nicholson
OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews of Omega Pacific WedgiesMost recent review: December 15, 2009
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