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DMM Wallnut Review

   

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  • Currently 4.7/5
Overall avg rating 4.7 of 5 based on 10 reviews. Most recent review: January 16, 2014
Street Price:   Varies from $8 - $82 | Compare prices at 4 resellers
Pros:  Fit irregular rock types well, durable, was one of the better nuts in more parallel cracks
Cons:  Difficult to clean, needs one more smaller size
Best Uses:  Traditional free climbs, excelling in areas with more featured rock
User Rating:     
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 (5.0 of 5) based on 9 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (9/9) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   DMM
Review by: Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ December 14, 2009  
Overview
DMM Wallnuts look different than most other Climbing Nuts they feature a small groove running vertically up one side of their head. This groove helps them excel at irregular rock types such as limestone and crystallized granite. The groove also makes the nuts more stable, helping them seat better and making them less prone to being pulled out by rope drag or while climbing past them. According to DMM, the groove also allows the nut to be placed half in, half out of the rock, a scary thought that we never tested. This same groove does make them harder to clean than other models only the Metolius Ultralight Curve Nut was harder. DMM Wallnuts are also known to be extremely durable, a result of hot forging the heads of the smaller size nuts. Wallnuts have a larger curve than most, making them among the best we reviewed at fitting into parallel cracks.

If you are a beginner these nuts seat well and are less prone to popping out. That said, they are among the most difficult to clean. The fact that Wallnuts share the same color scheme as the rest of the Wild Country and DMM Offset Nut makes adding pieces to your rack a breeze.

View our complete Climbing Nut Review to see how this product compared to others.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
DMM Wallnuts fit a variety of cracks well. They, along with Metolius Curve Nuts, perform better than others when cracks are less constricting and more straight-sided. This results from a more aggressive curve than is typical, allowing the Wallnut to cam into the placement. Wallnuts have a distinct notch in the main gripping side of the nut's head. This allows them to be placed more securely in irregular rock types. It also helps set them more effectively and keep them from accidentally popping out. Wallnuts have hot forged heads in their smaller sizes that makes them among the most durable, along with BD Stoppers. Wallnuts are made with a tough cable and will stand up to years of abuse. Wallnuts also feature anodized heads to help with size selection. Wallnuts and the rest of the DMM/Wild Country nut family all have the same color scheme, making them easily interchangeable. Wallnuts have two very different axes for placement. Although we stuck with the classic orientation, they do have excellent taper in the other, front-to-back profile. Wallnuts have a reputation for being heavy but we found that they were lighter than average, debunking that myth.

Dislikes
Wallnuts didn't fit pin scars or flares as well as other models we tested. The notch also can make Wallnuts difficult to clean, giving about the same difficulty as Metolius Curve Nuts and more difficult than Black Diamond Stoppers or Wild Country Rocks on a Wire. Also, one size smaller would be nice. But you can combine them with Peenuts or Superlight Rocks that share the same color scheme.

Best Application
DMM Wallnuts fit a wide range of rock and crack types well but they excel in irregular or heavily textured stone such as that at Smith Rocks, Maple Canyon and J-Tree. Wallnuts were among the best performing nuts in parallel sided cracks. Wallnuts are expensive but very durable. They place easily and placements are average to assess. They are a more difficult to clean than most of the nuts we tested.

Value
DMM Wallnuts are in the middle with respect to price. People often climbing on textured rock in traditional areas will certainly enjoy the benefit of these nuts. You get a decent size run and good overlap. These nuts will last a long time. Someone willing pay a little extra, hoping to get years out of their investment, will be happy with this Welsh produced passive protection.

Other Versions
DMM Offset Nut and the DMM Micro Wallnuts

Ian Nicholson

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: January 16, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (5.0)

100% of 9 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
10 Total Ratings
5 star: 90%  (9)
4 star: 10%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 9 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Jan 16, 2014 - 02:44pm
gibbon69 · Climber · Stalowa Wola
You can place them almost everywhere. I completely rely on them. They're just great compared to other not offset nuts.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 1, 2013 - 01:37pm
WildIsle · Climber · Vancouver Island, BC
I've used DMM Wallnuts since they came out sometime in the late 80's. Having climbed with dozens of partners and shared their stoppers I can say without question the DMM Wallnuts were and are still the best available.

This was hammered home last season when one got stuck and lost on a route in Squamish (yes they can be tricky to remove for an inexperienced second). I stopped in to the local climbing store and could only find a BD stopper in that size to replace. I'm not picking on Black Diamond by any means, I have lots of their gear I love. But from the get-go the BD stopper was a disappointment compared to my rack of aging Wallnuts. The material, groove, curve radius and stiff wire all combine to make the DMM stopper the easiest and most reassuring to place. I found I was ignoring the BD stopper and would try a DMM one of another size just so I could use them and not the BD.

Finally it's time to retire my stoppers and I've ordered a full new set of DMM Wallnuts.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   May 26, 2011 - 12:56pm
weschrist · Climber · left sac
Love em. I agree, some smaller pieces would be nice.

Another con… a bit unstable when using stacked placements… not that anyone REALLY does that…

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   May 26, 2011 - 12:30pm
W. S. · Climber · The West
I love 'em. They're solid and seem to fit everywhere. Another thing that many people don't think about is the stiffness of the wire. The DMM's have a stiff enough wire for good overhead placements, where others are a little too floppy for my taste. What do you need a soft cable for? You're going to put a sling on it anyway. Pair a set of these with some RP's and a couple brass offsets and you've got all the passive pro you need for most routes. I've bootied a handful of BD and Wild Country nuts and am way less impressed with those.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Feb 8, 2011 - 08:18pm
PAUL SOUZA · Climber · Central Valley, CA
First set of nuts I've owned and wouldn't turn to anything else. I've used the BD stoppers and wasn't too thrilled about them. I've only had 1 instance where I spent 15 mins working the gold one out. The crack was the EXACT shape of the nut and took a lot of finesse to get it out. Other than that, no issues.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 31, 2010 - 02:38pm
Clayton · Climber
I agree that DMM Wallnuts are awesome! I've used Metolius Curved Nuts and BD Nuts before a friend talked me into trying these. I never went back. Granted nowadays I climb mainly with just a set of HB Brass Offsets and the new DMM Alloy Offsets and 3-4 select Wallnuts in smaller sizes but this is due to the nature of the rock in places that I climb often. Eldo, RMNP, Lumpy (I know, still RMNP), South Platte, etc. have lots of old pin scars and tiny cracks where offsets excel. Wallnuts have been my favorite non-offset nut ever since I found them about 6 years ago.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jan 9, 2010 - 01:41am
Fletcher · Climber · Altadena, CA
My story is the same as the first two reviewers…. I first used Wallnuts about 12 years ago when I was using a friend's rack. I loved their ability to get a good placement in irregular cracks. So I got a set to supplement by BD wires and it ends up that I almost exclusively use the Wallnuts now. They've worked well for me at Joshua Tree.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Dec 17, 2009 - 02:24pm
Forest · Climber · Denver, CO
I absolutely love these. I bought them almost by chance when I first needed a second set to compliment my BD stoppers. After a little while, I just found the wallnuts fit so much better in so many places, I pretty much stopped using the stoppers. Ended up selling the stoppers, got a set of offsets for my second set, and have loved the wallnuts ever since.

The curved shape really just fits so well in the variable cracks in southern AZ, Mt Lemmon and Cochise. They also fit very nicely in Sierra granite.

Just moved to Denver, and I find they also fit very well in Eldorado Cnayon Sandstone.

Love these things and can't recommend them enough.

Also, the review says they need one smaller size, but they do have them. I have all of 00, 0, and 3/4 sizes (I had a 1/2, but seem to have lost it somewhere along the way.) Just because you didn't buy it doesn't mean they don't make it.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Dec 17, 2009 - 12:48pm
bkalaska · Climber · San Francisco, CA
I swear by these. After using the ubiquitous BD Stoppers for years I tried these and put my stoppers away. They fit everywhere that a stoppper fits at least as well, and for all those stopper placements that are just good but not bomber the Walnuts are bomb-proof. I would agree that they aren't as suited for flared cracks, but that is why I carry cams. If you are getting a nut for parallel cracks it is worth the price to get these over Stoppers. I use the gold through teal on every climb and have two of the blues. I don't own the smallest or largest sizes though. I use tricams for that

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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DMM Wallnut
DMM Wallnut
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