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DMM Offset Nut Review

   
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  • Currently 4.9/5
Overall avg rating 4.9 of 5 based on 13 reviews. Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Street Price:   Varies from $17 - $70 | Compare prices at 4 resellers
Pros:  Light weight, excelled in pin scars, fantastic placement versatility
Cons:  Cables tend to get kinked, not many sizes offered
Best Uses:  Aid climbing, traditional climbing especially in older climbing areas with lots of pin scars
User Rating:     
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 (4.8 of 5) based on 12 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (12/12) recommend this product
Manufacturer:   DMM
Review by: Ian Nicholson ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ February 13, 2010  
Overview
DMM Offset Nut is a climbing nut design purchased from Hugh Banner (HB) two years ago when HB went out of business. DMM made a few small changes that improved the old successful design. If you climb in older areas where pitons were used, these heavily tapered nuts are amazing. Sometimes they fit perfectly in shallow flares where most other stoppers would barely hold body weight. Their shape is amazing for almost any rock type. With only five sizes they won't be the only set of nuts on your rack, but they are very useful nonetheless.

These nuts, while expensive, are the most versatile nut on the market. If you are into aid climbing these nuts are a must-have. If you are a cam junky and only place a nut where a cam absolutely won't fit, more often than not you'll find yourself reaching for Offset Nuts. All in all an excellent nut; bomber in many places where most other nuts dont come close. If you want something for the really tiny placements, check out the DMM Brass Offsets. If you don't want an offset shape, consider the classic design of the Black Diamond Stopper or the featherweight Wild Country Superlight Rocks.

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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

Likes
The DMM Alloy Nut has an anodized heads to more easily differentiate sizes. The slightly rounded corners help with cleanablity. These nuts have decent overlap in their sizes so you won't get stuck too often with in-between placement. The best aspect of DMM Alloy Offsets is their distinct and dramatically offset sides that help them fit perfectly into pin scars where many other nuts might only be marginal. This is apparent in older climbing areas such as Yosemite, Zion, the Adirondacks, Index and Lovers Leap and in newer climbing areas as well. They fit in non-parallel-sided cracks well and they also sport cutouts on either side that help them place into irregular and highly textured cracks with confidence. In side-by-side tests DMM Alloy Offsets gave the most bomber placements in the widest range of cracks of any nuts we tested, from granite to sandstone. The cable on the top of the nut is recessed into the head, thus adding to your placement options by keeping the cable from getting in the way.

Dislikes
Because of its offset nature, the nut doesn't rotate if you yank straight up to clean it, causing the cable to kink. The cable is glued into the head of the nut, also leading the cable to kink and eventually unravel. The problem isn't as bad as with DMM's brass models, but it is still a problem. Unfortunately DMM doesn't produce smaller sizes in the aluminum version, which keeps them from being a stand-alone set of nuts. The Alloy Offsets are the most expensive nuts we tested.

Best Application
For aid climbing these nuts are practically a must. If you are a cam-placing junkie and rarely use nuts then you will probably enjoy these nuts more than others due to their ability to excel when cams won't come close.

Value
At $16 per nut or $75 for the set, these little babies are the most expensive in the review twice as much as some other nuts. However, if you are into aid climbing, especially in Yosemite or Zion, the DMM Alloy Offsets are nearly as important as your aiders.

Ian Nicholson

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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: April 18, 2014
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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 (5.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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 (4.8)

100% of 12 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
13 Total Ratings
5 star: 85%  (11)
4 star: 15%  (2)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 12 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Apr 23, 2012 - 05:41pm
labrat · Climber · Auburn, CA
Love them so far. Wish DMM would make more sizes. 2nd on the vote for how great they work in Red Rock. Next up, some Sierra granite….

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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1 of 1 people found the following review helpful:
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   Feb 14, 2010 - 11:24pm
jfailing · Climber · Lone Pine
I love these. Best nut ever for any sort of irregular placement. They sink in super easy - almost feels as easy as a cam sometimes.

The incut in the middle of the nut makes it even better - any crystals or little bumps fit into the grooves and makes your life even easier.

Even though these are one of the more expensive nuts out there, I'll probably end up buying a second set.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 18, 2014 - 08:11am
WML · Climber · Edge of the Electric Ocean Beneath Red Rock
Much like the first hit of crack, the first hit of using these on your partner's rack is free.

My first time climbing with these was in Yosemite Valley on a partner's rack, and now I use them religiously while climbing and living near Red Rock Canyon. And my partners now have them. Seriously, don't even bother buying the BD nuts unless you need an extra set. It's not that the BD nuts aren't good, because they are, it's just that these quite frankly are the nuts that will fit those placements and then some, and are a bit easier to clean as a second than the BD nuts for whatever reason.

The concerns expressed by others as far as cable kinking are concerned, I haven't seen too much of that although a little bit on a few I've taken big falls on, but not a cause for concern. Even though there are only 5 in the set, I feel that those sizes adequately cover the range needed to be able to adequately protect most free climbs - and if you need more, steal 'em from yer partner.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 24, 2012 - 07:08pm
C Blank · Climber · San Francisco, CA
The ONLY thing that is wrong with these is that they are not in a few more sizes.

Best piece of passive pro out there.

I've personally used them in Tahoe granite, Smith tuff, Sketchy Coastal Bay Area Sandstone, and Chert (Beaver Street).

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Aug 12, 2012 - 09:29pm
jimdonohoe · Climber · Brisbane
These wires are incredible in that I bought them not really needing them, yet they soon became the the undisputed favourite on my rack. For some reason I find it very easy to pick the correct size almost every time, and they seat so well as to give me a lot of confidence. It was not until I used these nuts that I discovered how much better protected some routes can be.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 21, 2012 - 04:33pm
bmacd · Climber · 100% Canadian
Used these puppies for the first time 2 days ago in Red Rocks sandstone. Totally Killer. Buying second set tomorrow. Stoppers and Rocks are now stored away as memorabilia.

Best nuts ever. Case closed.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Apr 21, 2012 - 03:31pm
Blakey · Climber · Newcastle UK
I've had a set of these on my rack for a year or so now and am really pleased with them.

The mix of tapers means that you'll most likely find something for somewhere when you reach for them.

The only minor part is that they feel heavy compared with my other favourite nuts, the Wildcountry Superlights, but these meet a different requirement so I'm more than happy to stick them on my harness.

Colours work well, they seem to clean easy enough and the wires are stiff enough to wiggle them around when stretching above for a placement.

Steve

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Nov 19, 2010 - 03:53pm
budmiller · Climber · California
Things freaking rock. It seems like if you grab anything even close to the right size and slide it through a crack for a couple inches, it will typically find itself in a bomber positition. While I used to always reach for cam's when I was getting pumped and/or gripped, most of the time i seem to find myself grabbing these nowdays.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Sep 9, 2010 - 02:36am
bearbreeder · Climber
these and peanuts are only nuts i usually carry

fits anything in squamish

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jan 19, 2010 - 07:50pm
squishy · Climber
Best nuts I've ever used, I have since purchased doubles and triples of the smaller two. The #7 fits just about everywhere and I tend to use multiples on every pitch on Serra granite.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Dec 21, 2009 - 02:45pm
Cpt0bvi0u5 · Climber · Merced CA
The nut does slide down the cable occasionally but these babies are fantastic and will fit where other nuts just wont go, or at least wont be bomber. I completely recommend that every climber has a set of these on their rack.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Dec 15, 2009 - 10:41pm
GZimmerman · Climber · WA
Once you use them for a while slash whip on them the sliding down the cable issue becomes negligible.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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A set of DMM Alloy Offset nuts
Credit: Ian Nicholson
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