Hands-on Gear Review

Black Diamond Stopper Review

   

Nuts and Stoppers

  • Currently 3.8/5
Overall avg rating 3.8 of 5 based on 4 reviews. Most recent review: March 10, 2010
Street Price:   Varies from $8 - $90 | Compare prices at 13 resellers
Pros:  Very useful size range, Anodized heads, Durable
Cons:  Not as useful in flaring placements
Best Uses:  Trad Climbing
User Rating:     
  • 1
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  • 4
  • 5
 (4.2 of 5) based on 3 reviews
Recommendations:  100% of reviewers (3/3) recommend Black Diamond Stopper
Manufacturer:  Black Diamond
Review by: Ian Nicholson on December 15, 2009
Overview
In 1972 Chouinard Equipment released seven sizes of Stoppers. A lot has changed since then but the folks at Black Diamond (which came out of Chouinard) have been making climbing nuts longer than anyone in North America. Black Diamond’s Stoppers are some of the most durable nuts around. They will easily last even the most avid climber for many seasons. BD is tied for second for the largest range of sizes in a standard set (although they claim #1 and #2 are for direct aid only). The Stoppers set had one of the most usable size ranges we tested with little or no gap between sizes. Color coded heads help to distinguish between sizes. The variety of placements was average but they worked well in a great variety of rock types.

  • Photos
  • Specs
Black Diamond Stopper Climbing Nut
Black Diamond Stopper Climbing Nut
Credit: Steve

Credit: Steve

Credit: Steve

Show the profile of a #11 Black Diamond Stopper from the top
Show the profile of a #11 Black Diamond Stopper from the top
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Showing the Profile of a #11 Black Diamond Stopper
Showing the Profile of a #11 Black Diamond Stopper
Credit: Ian Nicholson

Specifications for Black Diamond Stopper
  • weight of set 1 lbs
  • Sized#: 1-13
  • Actual size range: 4-35mm total size range
  • SuperTopo weight of one nut comparison size 10.5-11m: 31gm(#7)
  • 1 year warranty
  • Aluminum heads
  • Steel Cables

The Bottom Line

Black Diamond Stoppers are a excellent value, having one of the best prices and one of the most useful size runs (second largest) of any of the nuts we tested. Stoppers have seemingly a perfect amount of overlap so you rarely get stuck with an in-between placement. They are simple nuts that are easy to assess in the rock (a good trait for climbers just breaking into the sport). Stoppers are tough nuts that will last many years of road tripping. They fit most constrictions and parallel sided cracks quite well. One downside is their inability to fit flaring cracks well like the top scoring DMM Offset Nut. They are stout, dependable nuts that excel in the smaller sizes and are average in the larger. We lean toward getting the ABC Huevo because it is very similar but less expensive

View our complete Climbing Nut/Stopper Review to see how this product compared to others.


Comparative Review At-a-Glance

See more side-by-side comparisons
  This Product Editors' Choice Best Buy Award
Product Name Black Diamond Stopper DMM Offset Nut
Video video review
ABC Huevo
Street Price $8 | compare prices$16 | compare prices$6 | compare prices
Overall Score
100
0
69
100
0
80
100
0
70
Editors' Awards     Editors' Choice Award   Best Buy Award 
Pros Very useful size range, Anodized heads, DurableLight weight, excelled in pin scars, fantastic placement versatilityGreat price, easy to clean
Cons Not as useful in flaring placementsCables tend to get kinked, not many sizes offeredHeavy, not as useful in flaring cracks
Best Uses Trad ClimbingAid climbing, traditional climbing especially in older climbing areas with lots of pin scars Traditional free climbs
Date Reviewed Jun 02, 2011Jun 02, 2011Oct 02, 2011
Weighted Metrics Black Diamond Stopper DMM Offset Nut ABC Huevo
Flared Cracks
10
0
5
10
0
10
10
0
5
Parallel Cracks
10
0
8
10
0
7
10
0
8
Cable Durability
10
0
10
10
0
8
10
0
9
Ease of Removal
10
0
7
10
0
6
10
0
8
Orientation Options
10
0
7
10
0
8
10
0
7
Product Specs Black Diamond Stopper DMM Offset Nut ABC Huevo
Type of Nut Design Curve Offset Curve
# Size range #1-13 #7-11 #1-13
Actual Size Range 4-35mm 12-30mm 4.3-26.4mm
Weight for Set 16oz 6.9oz 15.3oz
Weight for 10.5mm-11mm Crack 31g (#7) 27g (#7) 35g (#7)
Warranty 1 year 1 year 1 year


OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

likes
BD Stoppers have rounded edges that make for easier cleaning — a lot easier than DMM Offsets or Wallnuts and slightly more difficult than Omega Pacific Wedgies. The Stoppers' curve fits a wide range of cracks well, although they make the smaller sizes straight for more surface contact and thus more holding power. Black Diamond produces one of the biggest size ranges for their aluminum nuts, giving users a nice continuous size run. Anodized heads matching their cams make for easy size recognition. They fit parallel cracks well, about the same as Wild Country Rocks on a Wire and not quite as well as DMM Wallnuts. Stoppers are possibly the most durable nuts on the market, their wires rarely kinking or fraying and the nut itself never seeming to get too beat up. We like both orientations of the Stopper, giving above average marks for the usability on both axes. We love how their smaller nuts place. Black Diamond produces very useful small sizes, a range that most other manufacturers don't even offer.

Dislikes
One of our only gripes, and it's a big one, is that Stoppers don't fit as large a range of cracks as DMM Offsets or Wild Country Superlight Rocks in the middle and larger sizes (above size #5 or #6). We didn't have a really hard time trying to make them work, they just were not as versatile as others and their performance was average. Their fit versatility is about the same as for Wild Country Rocks. We also don't like that Stoppers' larger size heads tend to slide around on the cable while adjusting them in the stone.

Best Application
Stoppers are great for people looking to get a set of nuts without spending too much money. If you are hard on your nuts, note that Stoppers have incredible durability. Stoppers clean nicely and offer decent but not fantastic placement versatility. They excel in parallel and bottleneck placements and are rather average in flairs and funky pods.

Value
The price point of the Stoppers is on the better side. They offer great value, a big size range and durable quality that will last you as long as any nut on the market. A lightly better value is the ABC Huevo which performed similarly but costs less.

Other Versions
Black Diamond Micro Stopper

Ian Nicholson, OutdoorGearLab Review Staff

Black Diamond Stopper

   
Compare this product side-by-side to other nuts and stoppers

OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews of Black Diamond Stopper


Most recent review: March 10, 2010
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
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  • 4
  • 5
 (3.0)
Average Customer Rating:   
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  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.2)

100% of 3 reviewers recommend it
Rating Distribution
6 Total Ratings
5 star: 67%  (4)
4 star: 0%  (0)
3 star: 17%  (1)
2 star: 17%  (1)
1 star: 0%  (0)
Sort 3 member reviews by: Most Recent | Most Helpful
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   Mar 10, 2010 - 04:38pm
Sascha · Climber · Sebastopol, CA
One issue I haven't seen addressed when considering stoppers from different manufacturers is the user's familiarity with the particular shape. I've used BD stoppers long enough that I can pretty much look at a given crack and say, that's a #7, and sink the right one on my first try. I know juuuust how that little curve is going to settle in. On the other hand, one time I led with my partner's rack of what I think were DMM Wallnuts, which have a totally different shape. Two of them in a row came right back out at me, to my considerable consternation, after I thought they were placed okay. My partner, of course, had wanted us to use his nuts because he liked placing those better. Perhaps this is a reason to diversify your skill base with different shaped pro by buying some of each, just in case you have to use someone else's rack some day -- or reason to stick with what you know, especially if you're on a pitch where you're pushing yourself.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Mar 10, 2010 - 04:35pm
clockclimb · Climber · Orem, Utah
Nice basic stopper, 90% of the time it works as well or better than any of the many other nuts I have used.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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   Jan 22, 2010 - 12:14am
Cpt0bvi0u5 · Climber · Merced CA
These are probably the most used stoppers out there and for good reason. Black Diamond has made some truly good stoppers here. Sure they aren't that great in flares but in anything else these will serve you well. They can take a lot of punishment and will last for years. A good thing about these compared to the DMM's is that the nuts do not slide up the cables assuring that you won't have to fumble around with them on a climb. I have placed and fallen on these pieces and I have to say I will continue using these as my main set of stoppers. And if you supplement these with a set of the DMM offsets you will be thinking that SLCD is some abbreviation for a new Korean pop band. Overall a great stopper and would highly recommend everyone to have at least one set of these on their rack.

Bottom Line: Yes, I would recommend this product to a friend.
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Black Diamond Stopper Climbing Nut
Black Diamond Stopper Climbing Nut
Credit: Steve

Black Diamond Stopper Climbing Nut

Credit: Steve
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