First Look Gear Review
Street Price: Varies from $80 - $120 | Compare prices at 5 resellers
Pros: Bomber gear loops, durable, two belay loops, self-locking buckle.
Cons: Adjustable leg loops only, can't drop leg loops.
Best Uses: Trad climbing, sport climbing, multi-pitch climbing.
This harness is part of the Metolius Safe Tech line, which means if you clip a carabiner just about anywhere it is bomber. Most comparable harnesses have gear loops rated to 0-1 KN whereas this harness has 10 kN gear loops. You can clip just about anything to the gear loops with confidence. They are easy to use and generally awesome.
This is one of the first harnesses we have seem from Metolius with a self-locking buckle. It is not as smooth as others we have tested but still works well. Its main drawback is it uses a traditional foam padding sewn to webbing for its comfort/strength. We find it is not as comfortable as other harnesses of similar weights that split up the webbing various ways to spread the weight out more. The foam is on the lighter side and isn't very comfortable for extended hanging or semi-hanging belay time.
The double belay loop is nice on big wall harnesses like our Editors' Choice big wall harness, the Metolius Safe Tech Waldo. That said, it seems a little overkill for an all-around climbing harness except for rare applications, like using two Petzl Micro Traxions for a fixed rope self-belay.
At $99, it is half way between a budget $50 harness and a premium $150 item. We do expect it to last longer than most harnesses, so the long-term value is there.
Overall, this is a harness for people who put top priority on the unique Metolius safety features. If you feel safer using a harness, you may climb more confidently.
— Ian Nicholson
OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: August 7, 2012
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