Hands-on Gear Review
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Street Price: Varies from $41 - $46 | Compare prices at 6 resellers
Pros: Comfortable, great gear loops, great value.
Cons: No self-locking (speed adjust) buckle.
Best Uses: Sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch climbing, gym climbing.
The Black Diamond Momentum is the best climbing harness out there for the money and a great first harness. It is comfortable, has great gear loops, tons of features and costs a mere $45. You have to spend a LOT more money to get minor improvements in weight, comfort or features. The Black Diamond Chaos harness is just slightly better but costs another $80.
If you just starting to climb or you are on a budget, you can't beat this climbing harness. In fact, you will probably go many years before ever buying another harness. It is only if you want a high end or application- specific harness that you need to look at others. For example, if you want the ultimate sport climbing harness you can shell out another $55 for the Black Diamond Ozone, but in the end the Momentum will be almost as comfortable and more versatile and at a fraction of the price. If you are new to climbing, we strongly recommend checking out the Black Diamond Momentum AL Package that comes with a belay device, biner and chalk bag all for around $80.
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OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review
This Black Diamond harness has it all: comfort, great gear loops, sleek design, full strength trail line loop, and beefy belay loop. The gear loops are nice because they are rigid, stick out from the harness, and are easy to clip. They are also right next to each other; there is not that annoying gap for that special plastic biner for ice climbing protection (sorry ice climbers). The leg loops are easy to release, actually much easier to release than on the higher end Black Diamond harnesses. The material inside the waist and leg loops is cozy and comfy.
The main dislike is that there is no self-locking (speed adjust) buckle for the waist belt. There is the Black Diamond Momentum SA model (which stands for Momentum Speed Adjust), but to get the speed adjust waist buckle you also must get buckles on the leg loops (a deal-breaker for us) and pay an extra $15. Another $15 doesn't break the bank, but it downgrades the harness from "ridiculously good deal" to just "good deal." Hopefully Black Diamond will simplify everything by adding a speed adjust buckle to the waist belt of this basic model and then get rid of all their non-speed adjust models.
This is a great all around harness. It works well in the gym, at the sport crags or on multi-pitch climbs. Chris McNamara would even take it on El Cap and probably really like it.
This is hands down the best value in harnesses. In fact, it is even cheaper than the Black Diamond Bod Harness, something we still can't figure out. The Bod is way less comfortable or usefuland costs more??
There are six versions of the Momentum line including the Black Diamond Momentum, Black Diamond Momentum SA, Black Diamond Momentum AL, Black Diamond Momentum DS and the women's versions: Black Diamond Primrose SA, Black Diamond Primrose AL. They all share similar padding and gear loops but use different waist and leg tightening systems. They are vary widely in cost.
— Chris McNamara, Chris Van Leuven
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OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews
Most recent review: May 5, 2012
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