Arc'teryx R320 Review

This was our favorite cragging and gym climbing harness because it is so full featured while being light and compact. Although it is the most expensive harness, the Arc'teryx lifetime warranty insures that you will enjoy it for, well… a lifetime. On a strict budget, get the Black Diamond Momentum harness. If you want the ultimate sport climbing harness at any price, try this on next to the Black Diamond Ozone and see what fits best. Another budget pick is the Mad Rock Alpha Harness but if you want the coolest harness out there, one that will turn the most heads, this is it.

Likes
This climbing harness is revolutionary; we have never seen a harness this thin and low profile while being as comfortable as it is. This is one of the few harnesses to easily fit in a laptop bag along with shoes, computer, chalkbag and belay device. And when standing around with it on, it almost feels like you are not wearing a harness. In addition, just about every other feature of this harness is designed well. The gear loops were our favorite in the review; you could clip more biners to them than any other harness and they were easy to clip because of their hard plastic coating. While a few companies now use gear loops that are angled forward, these gear loops were among the few where the gear would slide forward to be there where you wanted it. Also, because there is no space dedicated to ice climbing biners, both the gear loops are positioned further forward where you can easily reach your gear.

While most harnesses now have a self-locking buckle for the waist, this one was one of the smoothest to operate. Also, it has the best tuckaway feature for the extra tail for the waist belt. Everyone agreed this was the coolest looking harness, both in design, colors and material. It's the Audi of harnesses – refined, elegant and expensive. It even comes in a special little tin box that makes it feel like a luxury purchase.

Finally, we love the Arc'teryx lifetime warranty; read more below.

Dislikes
While this harness felt the most comfortable while climbing and standing around, it was not the most comfortable to hang in. Most reviewers were wowed by it at first and wanted to use it. But after hanging in it a lot, some of the initial excitement faded. It is not that the harness is uncomfortable; it is just not as comfortable as other harnesses with beefier foam, especially for hanging around in all day. It is more comfortable than other superlight harnesses such as the Petzl Hirundos and Camp Air, but not as comfortable as the Petzl Sama or Black Diamond Aura and Ozone.

A few minor dislikes: the leg loop straps were very difficult to unhook while wearing. For some women this might be a deal-breaker. It is possible that we tested a harness with a defective hook, so try unhooking for yourself. When rappelling, some testers found the leg loops swished around and were not too comfortable. Also, the trail line loop is not that beefy and a little tricky to clip biners to.

Best Application
This harness excels when you are not hanging in it for long periods of time. This was one of our favorite harnesses for gym climbing, sport climbing and cragging but not for a multi-pitch route or a big wall climb that involves hanging around for hours at a belay.

Personal Story - Awesome Warranty!
Arc'teryx claims a lifetime warranty. And they mean it. Chris Mac got one of their Blade 15 laptop bags after making a donation to the Access Fund. After a year or two the zipper to the main laptop compartment broke. He sent it back to Arc'teryx, fully expecting to pay for the replacement since he had used the bag hard, often stuffing the it to the gills so he would not have to check another bag on the airplane. Arc'teryx not only did not charge for the replacement, they said his model was no longer available so would he like to upgrade to their newer, bigger and flashier model? All at no charge! Up to that point Chris was turned off by the expense of most Arc'teryx gear. But having seen how they stand behind their products, he says they are good value if you plan to use them a lot.

Value
This harness is expensive. For the same price of $135 you could buy three Black Diamond Momentum harnesses. Before testing it we wondered why anyone would pay that much money when there were pretty solid harnesses for $45. That said, considering that a harness will be your most used piece of gear and considering the Arc'teryx warranty, if you want the ultimate featured harness that will last for years then this is a good investment.