The Best Climbing Chalk Review
Ahh…chalk. For some of us climbers it's only necessary in the blazing heat when even a bag of dust would start sweating, and for others it's a physical and mental crutch upon which we rely to grunt out those superhuman crux moves on our latest project. Either way, we all use it at some point and when we do, it's important that it works the way we want.
We put some of the top-selling climbing chalk to the test hoping that you will be able to find the one that best suits your needs. Each of the products was extensively field tested and then subjected to a series of head-to-head double blind tests with the other chalks we were testing. We took focused notes on the products' performance scoring each on the following factors: absorption, duration, friction, value and overall feel. Below is a wrapup of the results.
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Test Results and Ratings
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Analysis and Award Winners
We felt the ability to absorb sweat was the most important trait that chalk can have. When your hands are sweaty they're slippery and when they're slippery you fall. After pitting all the products against each other in head to head tests, we found that Black Diamond's White Gold had the greatest absorption, followed closely by the Metolius Eco Ball and Metolius Super Chalk. We loved the way White Gold dried your hands up quickly, giving you that extra grip right when you need it.
How many times you have to let go with one hand, and chalk up in a route or particularly difficult sequence, can mean the difference between a clean send and a fall. We decided that the second most important thing in judging chalk is to make an assessment of how long it lasts before needing to re-chalk. Our tests yielded a three-way tie for top rank between Black Diamond White Gold, Metolius Super Chalk, and Metolius Eco Ball.
As an assessment of how much "grip" the chalk providesafter drying up all your nasty sweat, friction is a very important factor when chalking up. We found a significant enough difference between products that we felt this should definitely be included in our results. The top performer in terms of friction was Black Diamond White Gold. The chalk clung to your skin without detracting from the natural ridges on the tips of your fingers getting good traction on the rock.
As an objective measure of how much the chalk cost per gram, this was a fairly straightforward factor to consider. However, some of the products we tested were loose chalk and some were chalk socks…thus a little like comparing apples and oranges. We determined that Frank Endo chalk was the best value for a number of factors. First, it was cheaper than Black Diamond White Gold and Metolius Super Chalk Loose chalk. Second, it is available in a box of 8 two-ounce blocks, saving you some money by buying in bulk. And finally, since you don't really need a chalk sock, you can go cheap by just rocking the loose chalk.
This one just pretty much came down to how the chalk felt on our hands, and how the chalk made our hands feel. We found that we liked the feeling of Black Diamond White Gold over all the other products that we tested.
The Bottom Line
Editors'Choice: Black Diamond White Gold
Top Pick: Metolius Eco Ball
Best Buy: Metolius Super Chalk
— Robert Beno
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