Metolius Offset Master Cam Review

What is an offset cam?
Being "offset" means that of the four camming lobes, two are one size and the other two are a size smaller. This makes this spring loaded camming device especially useful in Yosemite, Zion or anywhere else there are pin scars or flared placements. They are useful when free climbing but essential when aid climbing. Often the only cam that will work solidly in a flared placement is an offset cam. There are two main offset cams: the Metolius Offset Master Cam and the CCH Hybrid Alien.

Likes
The Metolius Offset Master Cam has a very narrow head width. In some sizes they are even narrower than the CCH Alien. This means they are more bomber in really shallow placements. Also, the metal in cams is harder than than that of CCH Alien. This means that the Metolius cams will likely be more durable. That said, part of what makes the Aliens stick so well in little placements is the soft metal, so there is a pro and a con there. The Master Cam stem is flexible but more rigid than other single stem cams like the Wild Country Zero or Alien. This means the cam is a little more stable in the hand and easier to retract, especially over time when the cams get more sticky.

Metolius uses a unique "Range Finder" color coded system to help you know if the cam is bomber or not. If the green dots are touching the rock, the cam is bomber. If the yellow or red dots are touching, it's not. This is very useful for beginning leaders. I didn't use it much but it is a good reminder about optimal cam placement.

Dislikes
Most of my likes have their own drawbacks. For example, the more rigid stem on this device means it is more likely to walk and it does not bend edges as well as the CCH Alien or Wild Country Zero. More importantly, the stem width a few inches below the cams is a little wide (there is a slightly bulky piece of aluminum there). In certain placements, this keeps the cam from being placed as deeply as you could with an Alien.

The shorter sling on the unit is great for racking, but it means that the cam will walk more and therefore you are more likely to need a quickdraw than with units with longer slings and more flexible stems. I would prefer it if the sling were another inch or two longer.

Not sure if this is a like or dislike
The cam "wires" are made of Kevlar. Metolius says these are much stronger than typical wires. However, time will tell if they are more durable. Anecdotal reports from El Cap are that there are more than a few of these getting fixed with broken Kevlar wires.

Best Application
These excel in Yosemite, Zion or any area with flared cracks and pin scars. They are best paired with non offset cams. For example, on a typical El Capitan route I would take 1-2 sets of these and 2 sets of non offset cams. In a place like Indian Creek, where the cracks are perfectly parallel, these cams do not work well.

Value
At $60, these are a pretty good deal. There are not many cheaper cams, and most other cams will cost you another $10. They also have durable cams which should make them last longer.

Other Versions
Metolius Master Cam