< Go to Belay Device

Hands-on Gear Review

Black Diamond ATC Guide Review

   
Top Pick Award

Belay Device

  • Currently 4.0/5
Overall avg rating 4.0 of 5 based on 1 review. Most recent review: January 31, 2016
Price:   $30 List | Varies from $22 - $30 online
Compare prices at 6 resellers
Pros:  Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value
Cons:  Heavier than the Reverso 4, otherwise nothing to complain about
Manufacturer:   Black Diamond
Review by: Jack Cramer ⋅ Review Editor, OutdoorGearLab ⋅ January 31, 2016  
Overview
The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tough rappel/guide's belay device and our favorite device for multi-pitch climbing. It gets our Top Pick award, barely edging out the newest version of the old winner, the Petzl Reverso 4. It's more durable than the Reverso 4, better with thicker ropes (9.5-11.0 mm), and creates less friction for the belayer in auto-block mode. We know many guides in Yosemite and elsewhere that use the ATC Guide year after year. It catches lead falls well and locks off strong when a hanging climber needs to rest. That said, the Reverso 4 is an ounce lighter, so it's not easy to tell a clear winner.

In this review we'll compare the ATC Guide mostly to other devices tailored for multi-pitch climbing. These include the Reverso 4, Edelrid Mega Jul, and Mammut Smart Alpine that all have dual friction channels and auto-block (guide mode) capability. If you don't multi-pitch climb and belay off the anchor much, we recommend the ATC Guide's cousin, the Black Diamond ATC XP, or the Petzl GriGri 2. Additional options can also be explored in The Best Climbing Belay Device Review.

RELATED: Our complete review of belay device

  • Photos
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge
Click to enlarge


OutdoorGearLab Editors' Hands-on Review

The ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor.

Performance Comparison


Click to enlarge
The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Catch/Bite


The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. We like locking off with it more than the Petzl Reverso 4 though because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction, and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying.

Click to enlarge
The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Petzl Reverso 4 (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso 4 prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still.
Credit: Jack Cramer

Lowering/Rappelling


The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC-Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 was almost too small to recognize. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes we ultimately concluded that the ATC-Guide is slightly smoother. This difference is so small though, you shouldn't let it impact your purchasing decision.

Feeding Slack


There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the three other non-assisted locking devices in feeding slack to a leader. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips.

Auto-block (resistance belaying a second)


Click to enlarge
The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully.
Credit: Jack Cramer
The most noticeable thing distinuishing the four passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. To examine the differences objectively we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. In our experiments the ATC Guide gave the second least resistance. Compared to the Petzl Reveso 4, the friction savings was only 6-8%, but our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction.

Weight/Bulk


The ATC Guide weighs an ounce more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso 4 (3.2 oz vs. 2.2 oz). For most folks this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it amounts to a 45% difference. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Usually we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear, however, in this case we believe the lessened auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost.

Durability


Click to enlarge
The aluminum on the ATC Guide is pretty tough and should last several years. Causes of eventual retirement vary: the teeth might wear down, edges on the tube can sharpen, or the wire cable could get damaged.
Credit: Jack Cramer
Compared to other tube style devices the ATC Guide is pretty durable. Its teeth seem to last longer than those in the softer aluminum of the Petzl competitors. Other entrants though surpassed it in longevity. Both the Mammut Smart and Edelrid Mega Jul are made of stainless steel that stands up better than the ATC Guide's hot forged aluminum.

Best Applications


All things considered the ATC Guide is our favorite device for all-around multi-pitch use, be it thwacking up frozen waterfalls with twin threads of climbing 'floss' or projecting big wall free climbs with a single 10-mm cable. We especially recommend it for climbers prone to elbow or shoulder overuse injuries.

Value


At $29.95, the ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso 4 and less than all the other devices capable of direct belays off an anchor. The extra $8 more than the Black Diamond ATC XP and Petzl Verso is probably worth it if you plan to do some multi-pitch climbing.

Conclusion


The performance difference between the ATC Guide and the Petzl Reverso 4 is closer than we could have imagined. Both devices are smooth and reliable when belaying a leader or rappelling. They're also reasonably priced and durable. The differences amounted ultimately to only weight and auto-block resistance. Although the Reverso 4 is an ounce lighter, over the lifespan of either device, we believe the ATC Guide's lower auto-block friction will actually save most users more energy. For this reason we consider the ATC Guide our top pick for multi-pitch climbing.

Other Versions and Accessories


The ATC Guide and other Back Diamond belay devices received color updates in 2016.

Click to enlarge
Black Diamond ATC XP
  • Cost - $21.95
  • Best Buy Award Winner!
  • Basic manual device with added grooves for increased friction
  • An improvement over the basic ATC

Click to enlarge
Black Diamond Stone Glove
  • Cost - $40
  • Editors' Choice Best Belay Glove
  • Great dexterity and durable

Jack Cramer


Where to Buy?


Thinking about buying some gear we've reviewed? Help OutdoorGearLab out if you do. Just click on any of the above seller links and if you make any purchase, the seller will contribute a portion of the sale to help support this site. It won't cost you anything extra, and it's a simple way to help us fund our gear reviews. Thanks!

*Most retailers free shipping offers apply only to lower 48 US states using ground/economy shipping. See retailer's website for details.


OutdoorGearLab Member Reviews


Most recent review: January 31, 2016
Summary of All Ratings

OutdoorGearLab Editors' Rating:   
  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
 (4.0)
Average Customer Rating:     (0.0)
Rating Distribution
1 Total Ratings
5 star: 0%  (0)
4 star: 100%  (1)
3 star: 0%  (0)
2 star: 0%  (0)
1 star: 0%  (0)


Have you used the Black Diamond ATC Guide?
Don't hold back. Share your viewpoint by posting a review with your thoughts...

Write a Review on this Gear
Click to enlarge
The ATC Guide is a durable, affordable auto-block device.
Credit: Black Diamond
Where's the Best Price?
Seller Price
REI $22.39  -  25% off!
Backcountry $22.46  -  25% off!
Eastern Mountain Sports $22.46  -  25% off!
Compare prices at 6 sellers >

*You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners.
Related Review
The Best Climbing Belay Device

The Best Climbing Belay Device

We took the best belay/rappel devices to the gym, crags, multipitch climbing, and up Yosemite's big walls in order to find the best.
Helpful Buying Tips