In our search for the best climbing backpacks in 2019, we had a look at 50 packs and selected 11 of the most promising for extensive comparisons. Our intrepid team of testers posted one-day ascents of El Cap, sent long routes in the Canadian Rockies, and navigated awkward chimneys. They logged multi-pitch miles from the Aztec sandstone of Red Rocks to the polished granite of Whitehorse Ledge. The result was essential information on which packs were the most comfortable and longest-lasting, and which offered useful climbing features as opposed to fluff.
The Best Climbing Backpacks of 2019
|Price||$99.00 at REI|
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|$69.95 at Backcountry|
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|$80 List||$79.95 at Backcountry|
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|$58.42 at Amazon|
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|Pros||Light, stylish, comfortable, versatile||Comfortable, easy to pack||Simple, great zippered pocket, streamlined||Light, great features, roomy||Durable, sleek, stylish|
|Cons||Expensive, no emergency whistle||Heavy, below average durability, no emergency whistle||Limited attachment points, easy to drop stuff||Fragile, not super versatile||Uncomfortable shoulder straps, no external carrying options|
|Bottom Line||This light and comfortable pack is an expensive but durable choice for multi-pitch climbing.||Comfortable but at or below average in most other ways.||This simple pack does what you need with nothing extra.||This small climbing pack is optimized for alpine action.||This classic is still going strong, though you cannot carry anything on the outside of the pack.|
|Rating Categories||Patagonia Linked Pack 18L||Petzl Bug||The North Face Route Rocket||Black Diamond Blitz 20||Black Diamond Bullet|
|Climbing Utility (25%)|
|Specs||Patagonia Linked...||Petzl Bug||The North Face...||Black Diamond...||Black Diamond Bullet|
|Measured Weight||1.23 lbs||1.1 lbs||1.1 lbs||0.88 lbs||1.1 lbs|
|Fabric Type||940D Cordura Ballistic nylon||400d nylon||420D nylon||Dynex (210d + PE 200d)||420d nylon, 1260d ballistic nylon|
|Accessory Pockets?||One external zip, one internal zip||One external zip, one external open, one internal zip||One external zip||One external zip, one internal zip||One external zip, one internal zip|
|Outside Carry Options?||Top carrying handles, 2 external daisy chains||Top strap, one daisy chain||External daisy chains||Top strap, ice axe attachments||No|
|Hip Belt||Yes, removable||Yes||Yes, removable||Yes, removable||Yes, removable|
|Hydration System Compatible||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes||Yes|
Best Overall Model
Patagonia Linked Pack 18L
While the Patagonia Linked Pack only takes the first place score in one of our five evaluation criteria, it boasts the best overall score and is our lead tester's favorite. It strikes the best balance between weight and durability of any climbing backpack in our test. Our team also found it to be very functional, comfortable, and versatile. It is one of only two packs with two easily usable haul loops and a sleek design with enough sufficient carrying potential (the other is the Black Diamond Creek 20). The fabric is durable and we were always surprised at how much gear we crammed into this bag.
Even the weaknesses of this pack were slight. One of our two grievances is that the sternum strap buckle doesn't double as an emergency whistle. The other thing we wished for is a simpler hip belt attachment, perhaps just a girth hitch instead of a complicated buckle. Notwithstanding those shortcomings, we're happy to give this model our Editors' Choice Award.
Read review: Patagonia Linked Pack 18L
Best for Budget-Minded
REI Co-op Flash 18
The REI Co-op Flash 18 is the only pack in our test not specifically designed for rock climbing. This could be one reason why it's so much less expensive (for some reason, gear marketed for life-threatening pursuits is always pricier). We chose to keep the Flash in the review because of how often we see it out on the rock. There's no surprise that it's popular with climbers: it's light and it's cheap. For a lot of applications, it's also equally functional compared to the higher-priced options. This was our number one choice to throw into a bigger overnight pack for use in a lightweight summit push.
The Flash's greatest weakness is durability. Its 140-denier nylon will quickly be destroyed if it comes into much contact with rough rock. For 40 bucks, however, it won't cost you too much to replace a bag destroyed by abrasion when climbing and hauling. For occasional multi-pitch use, this is an excellent choice.
Read review: REI Co-Op Flash 18
Top Pick for Durability
Black Diamond Creek 20
The Black Diamond Creek 20 has some of the best features of a haul bag (durability, stand-up construction) and the comfort (both on the hike in and on route) of a small climbing pack. It's incredibly durable and has a simple design and construction that make it easy to pack and easy to dig into. Professional climbing guides, first ascensionists, desert climbers rolling with a lot of water, climbers in cold environments who need extra layers…really anyone who needs a bit more than 16L of volume but doesn't want to sacrifice climbability should check out this bag.
The price of this durable and utilitarian design is weight; it's one of the heaviest models in our review. We also wished for some hydration system friendly features. However, if you're hard on gear, or just want to buy one pack and not think about it again for 5 - 10 years, this is the small climbing pack for you.
Read review: Black Diamond Creek 20
What Is a Rock Climbing Daypack?
One of the joys of climbing is getting up off the ground. Getting high can give you, literally and figuratively, new perspectives. The challenge posed by long routes is staying comfortable and safe enough to climb your best while several hundred feet off the ground. A backpack helps overcome this problem by carrying the food, water, and gear necessary for you to send. While your high school bookbag can hold stuff, we set out to discover what packs explicitly built for multi-pitch rock climbing have to offer. These packs are more robust than a hiking day pack, more substantial than a hydration pack, and smaller and more ergonomic than an alpine climbing backpack. They have features specific to rock climbing, like reinforced haul loops and rope straps.
Why You Should Trust Us
A climbing pack is a pretty specialized item that must be lightweight, move with you, and not interfere with your harness, head, or the rock you move over. We tasked OutdoorGearLab Review Editor Ian McEleney to find out which models in the current market do this best. Ian's climbing career started in New England, and over time, like many, he made his way west, where even more rock and bigger mountains are found. Throughout, he's climbed on everything from crags to big walls. He now lives and guides in the Sierra Nevada as an AMGA certified alpine guide, and makes annual trips to Red Rock, Yosemite, Washington's Cascades, Utah's desert and Alaska.
This study began with market research and the examination of over 50 models before carefully selecting the 10 strongest offerings, which we purchased and tested. We conducted testing out in the field, over 5 months, in locations ranging from Cochamo in South America to Devil's Tower in Wyoming.
Related: How We Tested Climbing Packs
Analysis and Test Results
The climbing backpacks we tested ranged in volume from 12 to 24 liters. This is the ideal range for a climbing pack: any smaller and you might as well clip that stuff to your harness, any larger and it makes climbing harder. With good packing, most climbers can expect to fit two liters of water, a pair of approach shoes, some snacks, and a layer or two in most of these packs.
Related: Buying Advice for Climbing Packs
We enjoy discovering gear that's not only inexpensive but also scores toward the top of the pack. For this year's lineup, we've included 11 packs that span a range of budgets and fit various needs and wants. While climbing packs are generally a lower budget item, the models we've reviewed range occupy a range of prices. The highest value products include the REI Co-Op Flash 18, Trango Ration, and Black Diamond Bullet.
Rock climbers should already know how important weight is. Every serious sport climber knows that on a difficult redpoint, shedding a pound or two can be the difference between flailing and sending. The same is true in the alpine realm, where extra weight can wear you out before you even get to the route. As far as rock climbing daypacks go, weight may not be quite as critical. Most climbers we know wear packs mostly for long moderate routes where weight is less important. Some have the second carry a pack for the team so the leader can move freely. And when things do get truly desperate, you're usually better off hauling a pack instead of wearing it.
Our testers only seemed to notice the weight of a pack when it was
really light (the 10 ounce REI Co-op Flash 18) or really heavy (the 43 ounce Metolius Mescalito). It is possible to produce a 16L pack that's even lighter, but not without sacrifices in durability, function, or cost. Most every pack in the review can be slimmed by about two ounces or more if you remove hip belts, sternum straps, and supplemental padding. Weight itself represents 10% of our overall scores; not critical but worth consideration.
Overall, we were impressed with how well these packs held up. Durability is primarily determined by two factors: materials and design. Materials include fabrics, zippers, and buckles. The design of the pack is the shape and layout of features, the location of the seams, redundancy of haul loops, etc.
Most of the packs we tested are composed primarily of nylon. Nylon's abrasion resistance can vary wildly (think of the tissue-like delicacy of a windbreaker vs. the bullet stopping force of a flak jacket). The most widely listed metric to describe nylon durability is denier. Denier doesn't measure strength but rather the fineness of an individual yarn (determined as the mass in grams of a 9000-meter long strand). This gives an okay idea of how durable a given fabric is, a higher number corresponds to a higher level of durability. Other factors, like the density of the weave or additional coatings, can affect abrasion resistance and muddle denier's descriptive usefulness.
Materials we tested ranged from the flimsy 100-denier nylon on the body of the Gravity Pitch to the 1260d on the base of the Black Diamond Bullet. Two packs in our test (the Mescalito and Black Diamond Creek 20) have notably different materials to increase durability. The Creek is made of a high denier polyester with a thick urethane coating. The Mescalito is made of a lighter-weight version of the Durathane material on their haul bags.
This brings us to design. Higher denier fabrics weigh more. To shave ounces designers only use heavier materials on parts of the pack most subject to abuse; we found heavier fabrics on the bottom. Although this might help keep the bottom of your pack from falling out, we believe the more likely places to wear on a climbing backpack are the front and sides. These problem areas are what usually scrape against the rock during actual climbing and hauling and are where the most reinforcement should be targeted. Pack designers don't seem to be aware of this.
Our testers reached for the Mescalito when we know we'd be spending most of the route hauling (versus climbing with) the pack. We avoided hauling the Blitz, knowing that's what it's not intended for, and because we didn't want to ruin it for future testing.
All the evaluation criteria—weight, durability, comfort, etc.—were selected because they can affect a pack's overall usefulness for rock climbing. However, within the metric 'climbing utility' we focused on qualities outside the scope of those other metrics.
They're almost all hydration system compatible with sleeves or pockets along the back to tuck a bladder, a hole through the top to pass a hose through, and tabs on the shoulder straps to secure a bite valve. The Mescalito and Creek lack these niceties. Key clips inside accessory pockets are also almost entirely universal; here it's only the Payload and Mescalito that mysteriously lack one in their zippered lid pockets.Pockets
The placement of pockets was another matter. The "pocket bag" is the name of the place where your stuff goes when you stick it in the pocket. External pockets that had pocket bags on the inside of the pack were the hardest to use, especially if they were low on the pack. Our testers had a difficult time getting anything in or out of the external zipper pockets on the Bug and Flash. Conversely, the pocket bag on the big external zipper pocket of the Patagonia Linked 18 protrudes from the pack like a blister and was easier to use. A small internal pocket, usually large enough for a phone, keys, and headlamp, is a common feature we've come to appreciate. The dual interior/exterior opening on the pocket of the Route Rocket was a tester favorite.Streamlined
Laybacks, stem boxes, offwidths, and shoulder scums can all require you to place your back or sides on the stone. Snagging your pack on Red Rocks scrub oak during an exposed walk-off is also frustrating and potentially dangerous. A streamlined pack has the potential to turn an exasperating struggle into a manageable inconvenience.
The Bullet has no exterior catch points besides a single carry handle on top. It's pretty much guaranteed to slide past all obstacles. The Bug and Route Rocket are also streamlined but include haul loops and a few attachment points that could potentially get hung up. Most grabby were the Ration and Blitz, which have cords, loops, and other gizmos as potential snag points.Hauling
Despite the similarities, there were also important differences. Hauling a pack is something no one enjoys doing, but it's often much easier than wearing a bag up a strenuous overhang or tagging it inside a difficult chimney (Epinephrine anyone?). If you gotta haul, you probably want to do it using two beefy haul points. The Patagonia Linked and BD Creek have a pair of loops that can be clipped together with one locking carabiner when the packs aren't overstuffed. This is easy, bomber, and takes minimal gear.
The Mescalito has two top attachment points, but they require an additional sling or some cord to rig. The rest of the packs have a single loop between the shoulder straps. Our testers found this to be sufficient for all but the most problematic hauling. For the paranoid, it's possible to use these single haul loops combined with a sling through a shoulder strap to improvise redundancy, but this requires extra gear and is less convenient.
As noted under durability, hauling is hard on packs. The Mescalito, Creek, Route Rocket, and Bullet all have flaps built into the back of the pack to tuck shoulder straps into when hauling. The shoulder straps on the Bug can be crammed into the topo pocket on the back of the pack. The Ration comes with a cover that the whole thing slides into before hauling; this model provided the only option in the review to protect an entire pack from abrasion.Hip Belts
If you're going to be hiking around a daypack full of water, layers, and snacks along with big cams, a helmet, and rope strapped to the outside, the total weight can get heavy; support and stabilization become a concern. All the packs come with similar shoulder straps and padding. Our favorite setup is a removable hip belt. This is what most of the packs offer. We have gripes with the Payload 18 and Gravity Pitch because they're the only packs without hip belts, this is a deal-breaker for some climbers. The hip belt is permanently attached to the Petzl Bug but it can be tucked away.
The last feature we wish was included on all climbing backpacks is a safety whistle. Half of the packs in the review have whistles that double as the buckle for their sternum strap; always at hand, impossible to forget. The potential emergency signaling use of a whistle is way too valuable for this light, simple device not to be included on any pack designed explicitly for a sport like rock climbing.
This is one of our trickier categories, as there are endless ways to use a small backpack. Our most popular secondary application for these packs is everyday urban activities like going to class, shopping for groceries, or toting around a laptop. For this type of use, all the bags we tested are more than capable, though the more voluminous models are more useful at the farmer's market.
There are no restrictions on filling the main compartments with books, groceries, or anything else. However, there is a subjective quality affecting this application - style. Our testers and climbers we talked to preferred the Bullet and Linked's sleek exteriors for social occasions. The Creek and Blitz can come off as a bit too technical for around-town errands.
We also suspect a lot of rock climbers will want to stuff their small climbing daypack inside a larger backpack for carrying gear to the cliff or on an overnight excursion. Therefore, we factored in the packable bulk of these packs when they're empty. The Mescalito is bulky enough that it's only worth packing into a much larger pack and even then only if you need a mini haul bag in the backcountry. The Creek is only slightly smaller.
At the other end of the spectrum the Flash 18 and Blitz 20 vie for the smallest. We often tossed the Flash into the bottom of our cragging pack when headed for a cliff with a mix of single and multi-pitch routes, just to give us options. We think this is really useful for climbing trips where you hike into a base camp with overnight loads and climb several multi-pitch routes nearby over successive days as you might do in Wyoming's Wind River Range or California's Sierra Nevada.
When multi-pitching, it's common to 'carry-over', meaning you approach from one direction and descend another, not returning to the base of the route. In these situations, it's usually most comfortable to carry as much gear as possible in/on your daypack for the hiking, instead of letting it jangle around on your harness or a shoulder sling. For this reason, we like packs with external attachment options. Our favorites were contenders that balanced external carry options with a snag-free design. All the models except the BD Bullet have a few attachment points and a way to secure a rope. The Bullet may be streamlined, but it won't help you transport a carry-over load.
Beyond these qualities, evaluating versatility becomes more pack specific. Half of the packs in the test had enough exterior attachment points that we'd consider using them for moderate alpine missions. The Black Diamond Blitz is built specifically for this purpose. The Linked and Payload had a combination of low weight and sufficient attachment points for a pair of ice tools and (maybe) crampons.
The Mescalito is burly enough that a pair of testers used it as a sub-bag (with snacks, water, and layers for each day) on a big wall ascent of the eponymous El Cap route. The BD Bullet's sleek exterior does limit its uses, but it could be desired by high-speed adventurers who prefer zero possibility of snagging (mountain bikers, resort skiers).
It is hard to imagine another sport with as much variety of movement as rock climbing. From basic maneuvers like laybacks, and stems to the esoteric inventions of inverted offwidth specialists, different routes can drive us to contort our bodies into all sorts of shapes. A good climbing backpack should be able to accommodate these movements (or at least be haulable when things get a little too "Cirque Du Soliel").
One difference between climbing daypacks and regular hiking daypacks is where they rest on your back; climbing-specific bags should be designed to stay up high on the back to prevent them from obstructing access to the back of your harness. At the same time, a climbing pack shouldn't be positioned too high, otherwise your helmet hits it every time you look up. All of the contenders in our test have slightly different back lengths and shapes. The way a pack fits your shape is a make-or-break factor that no online review can account for. We strongly recommend (especially for more petite climbers) trying them on before buying.
Differentiation came from the tapered designs of the Patagonia Linked and The North Face Route Rocket that more closely match a body's shape (wider at the shoulders, narrower toward the hips). We preferred this design to the basic rectangular shape of the Bullet, Flash, and Petzl Bug.
Nevertheless, a tapered profile didn't guarantee a good comfort score. Multi-pitch routes often have a long approach, and climbing daypacks have to be able to tote gear on that approach with a (reasonable) level of comfort. The Payload and Gravity Pitch lost points because they lack hip belts and could become painful after bouncing down a long walk-off with a heavy load. Many of our testers reported specific complaints about the Bullet. This pack has widely spaced and curved shoulder straps that were prone to sliding off the shoulders of even our broadest-shouldered testers. Keeping the sternum strap clipped generally solved this problem.
Padding is also -obviously- important. The shoulder straps and hip belt of the Mescalito are far more padded than any others. The rest of the packs featured adequately padded shoulder straps and hip belts without padding.
If you're into climbing multi-pitch routes, the chances are good that you've realized the utility of a small climbing pack to transport the kit you need for the day. A combination of small and lightweight, while still being comfortable and durable, is what we're seeking for long days in the vertical. We hope our months of wearing (and hauling) these bags up rock faces has produced a review that will prove helpful in your search for a new climbing daypack.
— Ian McEleney