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Mad Rock Concorde Review

If you're buying everything all at once and need to save some $$, the price on these can't be beat!
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Price:  $12 List | $8.66 at Backcountry
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Inexpensive
Cons:  Narrow sling, exposed notch can snag on gear, wide profile
Manufacturer:   Mad Rock Climbing
By Cam McKenzie Ring ⋅ Senior Review Editor  ⋅  Apr 19, 2018
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56
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#14 of 15
  • Ease of Clipping - 25% 6
  • Ease of Unclipping - 25% 6
  • Portability - 20% 7
  • Ease of Handling - 15% 5
  • Ease of Grabbing - 15% 3

Our Verdict

If you're looking for the least expensive quickdraw out there, it doesn't get much cheaper than the Mad Rock Concorde. It costs only $11.55 a draw which is half the price (or even less!) than some other models in this test group. How is it so cheap? Mad Rock states that they developed a manufacturing process that can bust these out on the cheap while still maintaining proper strength ratings. There's a need in every market for bargain-basement products, and if you're hoping to put together your own set of draws but can hardly afford it, the price on these is hard to beat. That said, we prefer the Cypher Firefly II, which also retails for $11.55, and are a tad lighter, so be sure to check those out if you are shopping the bargain bin.


Compare to Similar Products

 
This Product
Mad Rock Concorde
Awards  Editors' Choice Award Top Pick Award   
Price $8.66 at Backcountry
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$17.89 at REI
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$25.95 at REI
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$20.21 at Backcountry
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Overall Score Sort Icon
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Pros InexpensiveSnappy clipping action, wide sling is easy to grab, light for a sport quickdrawEasy to clip, deep basket, cool "hood wire" around the notch for snag-free unclippingGreat clipping, wide sling for easy grabbing, keylocking gates don't snagEasy to clip, durable construction, large size works well with gloves
Cons Narrow sling, exposed notch can snag on gear, wide profileExpensive, still a little heavy for trad climbingHeavy, expensiveHeavy, expensiveHeavy, dogbone is on the thin side and not easy to grab
Bottom Line If you're buying everything all at once and need to save some $$, the price on these can't be beat!The best overall draw for sport specific climbers.A great quickdraw for sport climbers who prefer wiregates on the clipping end but don't want it to snag on anything.A fantastic option for sport climbing.A great all-around draw for those with large hands or who wear gloves.
Rating Categories Mad Rock Concorde Petzl Spirit Express LiveWire DMM Alpha Sport Quickdraw Petzl Djinn Axess
Ease Of Clipping (25%)
10
0
6
10
0
10
10
0
9
10
0
10
10
0
9
Ease Of Unclipping (25%)
10
0
6
10
0
8
10
0
9
10
0
8
10
0
9
Portability (20%)
10
0
7
10
0
6
10
0
4
10
0
4
10
0
4
Ease Of Handling (15%)
10
0
5
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
8
Ease Of Grabbing (15%)
10
0
3
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
9
10
0
6
Awards (%)
10
0
0
10
0
0
10
0
0
10
0
0
10
0
0
MSRP (%)
10
0
0
10
0
0
10
0
0
10
0
0
10
0
0
Specs Mad Rock Concorde Petzl Spirit Express LiveWire DMM Alpha Sport... Petzl Djinn Axess
Weight (ounces) 3 oz 3.2 oz 4 oz 3.9 oz 4 oz
Gate opening bottom carabiner (mm) 25 mm 25 mm 24 mm 25 mm 27 mm
Width of sling (mm) 10 mm 25 mm 27 mm 25 mm 16 mm
Sling Material Dyneema Nylon Polyester Nylon Polyester
Manufacturer Warranty Limited lifetime warranty 3 year 1 year 1 year 3 year
Non-snagging Top Biner no yes yes yes yes
Non-snagging Bottom Biner no yes yes yes yes
Forging method warm cold hot hot cold
Unique features Double bent wiregate biners Sling is wider at the bottom to facilitate grabbing, stiff sling Large and ergonomic carabiners good for larger hands, hood over bottom wiregate to prevent snags Dual keylock carabiners, wide sling Large carabiners good for big hands or gloves, easy to clip
Available sling lengths 10 cm 12 cm, 17 cm 12 cm 12 cm, 18 cm, 25 cm 12 cm, 17 cm

Our Analysis and Test Results

The Mad Rock Concorde is a budget-friendly quickdraw that still gets the job done, though not particularly well. While the price is right, it is on the heavy side for trad climbing use, and not functional for sport climbing. But sometimes any draw is better than none, so if you need a set but aren't looking to spend a lot on them, this could be an option to consider.

Performance Comparison


Testing out the Concord. This inexpensive draw will get the job done without blowing your budget.
Testing out the Concord. This inexpensive draw will get the job done without blowing your budget.

Ease of Clipping


While not the hardest model to clip (that honor goes to the Concorde's sibling, the Mad Rock Ultra Light Wire), it isn't the easiest either. The tension on the wiregates felt a little stiff, but not as bad as the Ultra Light. We appreciated that the rope end has a slight bend to it.

Clipping the Concords on a sport route. While not as snappy feeling as some of the bar gates that we tested  it wasn't too stiff either.
Clipping the Concords on a sport route. While not as snappy feeling as some of the bar gates that we tested, it wasn't too stiff either.

Ease of Unclipping


If you've read some of our other quickdraws reviews you probably already know what we are going to say — this one comes with an unprotected wiregate notch that can get hung up on things when you go to unclip it. If you plan to climb a lot of steep sport routes, do you and your partner a favor, and look for something with a protected notch or keylocking solid gate.

You have to pay attention when unclipping these carabiners so that the gate doesn't catch on the bolt. That's easier in a vertical situation than when your route is overhanging.
You have to pay attention when unclipping these carabiners so that the gate doesn't catch on the bolt. That's easier in a vertical situation than when your route is overhanging.

Portability


This draw weighs 3.0 ounces, which is about the middle of the pack. It's not as light as the Black Diamond Oz or Cypher Firefly II (2.3 and 2.6 ounces respectively), but it is lighter than most of the more sport climbing-focused options out there. If you like the looks (and price point) of this model but want something a little lighter, Mad Rock's Ultra Light Wire draw weighs only 2.4 ounces and costs $14.

Ease of Handling


Our testers' main complaint about the Concorde's ease of handling is that the carabiners are on the thick side and take up more room on your harness. They also tend to bunch up a bit and cross-clipped on us occasionally when we had a lot of stuff on our gear loops. The thinner sling also made them more prone to twisting around, as you can see in the photo below.

The carabiners are thicker than most and a little bulbous. The thin sling also twisted on us a bit. Here we went to clip  and the bottom carabiner started to turn around. That's another benefit to thicker slings.
The carabiners are thicker than most and a little bulbous. The thin sling also twisted on us a bit. Here we went to clip, and the bottom carabiner started to turn around. That's another benefit to thicker slings.

Ease of Grabbing


Like all of the thin 10mm draws, this one is not easy to grab — the dogbone felt unusually short on this model as well, making even more challenging to hang onto. If you know that you are prone to grabbing draws on challenging climbs (rather than take the whip), then look for something with a 25mm or wider dogbone, like our Editors' Choice winner, the Petzl Spirit Express.

Not only is the sling thin (10mm) but it was also shorter than most  making it the most challenging to grab.
Not only is the sling thin (10mm) but it was also shorter than most, making it the most challenging to grab.

Best Applications


It's a little hard to categorize this model because it falls in-between certain categories. We didn't like them much for trad climbing, as they are on the heavier side and take up a lot of room on our gear loops, which are already overloaded with gear when trad climbing. We also didn't like them too much for sport climbing, as we usually prefer a thicker dogbone and better handling. But, if you are getting into climbing and not sure what type of climbing you like better, or are overwhelmed by having to buy so many different things at once to get outside, you might consider them. They'll get the job done and leave you with more money to spend on a comfy harness or good rope.

Value


The price on this draw is hard to beat. It costs only $11.55 and comes in a six-pack for $60. That's ten bucks a draw! Whether or not that is a good value, though, is up for debate. It is one of the lowest-scoring models in our test group and given a choice we'd spend a little bit more for something else, like the Cypher Firefly II or Black Diamond FreeWire.

Conclusion


We appreciate Mad Rock's efforts to create the least expensive draw possible. There's always a need for budget items, and the Concorde is something even the poorest of dirtbags could probably afford. While this quickdraw doesn't perform as well as the more expensive models, if you don't care about anything else but the price of your quickdraws (and some climbers just don't!), then these are hard to beat.


Cam McKenzie Ring