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Black Diamond Speed 50 Review

This is an exquisitely versatile mountaineering pack which can handle everything from light expeditions to cragging.
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Price:  $195 List | $141.99 at Amazon
Compare prices at 2 resellers
Pros:  Versatile, thoughtful features, simple
Cons:  Could be more durable, slightly heavier than competition, reduced comfort due to shape
Manufacturer:   Black Diamond
By Lyra Pierotti ⋅ Review Editor  ⋅  Nov 20, 2017
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60
OVERALL
SCORE


RANKED
#8 of 11
  • Weight to Volume Ratio - 30% 8
  • Comfort - 20% 4
  • Durability - 20% 5
  • Versatility - 20% 6
  • Features - 10% 6

Our Verdict

The Black Diamond Speed 50 is a popular alpine pack that offers solid features and versatility. It is not the best in any of our metrics, but it performed above average in all of our tests. It is a logical choice for almost any alpine climb, and can even carry skis in an A-frame, and pack down small to carry on long ice climbs. It is durable enough we didn't feel bad taking it cragging. We love the simple design and thoughtful, streamlined features. It has everything you need, and nothing you don't. And it won't even break the bank.


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Pros Versatile, thoughtful features, simpleComfortable, affordable, durable, fully featuredSimple, light, comfortable, highly modularSimple, good weight to volume ratio, durableLightweight, simple, excellent pack for steep, technical terrain
Cons Could be more durable, slightly heavier than competition, reduced comfort due to shapeNot as lightweight as some packsDifficult to overstuff for the approach, some finicky featuresCan't remove the foam suspension pad, not best for heavy loads, requires thoughtful packingLess durable, less versatile, no side straps
Bottom Line This is an exquisitely versatile mountaineering pack which can handle everything from light expeditions to cragging.This is an excellent pack for most mountaineering uses, excelling in comfort and versatility, and climbs very well.The Ascensionist is a master of technical ascents with its light weight, versatility, and comfort on the climb.This is a light and durable pack which is a pleasure to use, and quickly became our go-to for a wide variety of climbing adventures.The Blitz is an excellent on-route climbing pack for challenging, steep terrain in the mountains.
Rating Categories Black Diamond Speed 50 Osprey Mutant 38 Patagonia Ascensionist 40 Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 Black Diamond Blitz 28L
Weight To Volume Ratio (30%)
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Comfort (20%)
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7
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7
Durability (20%)
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Versatility (20%)
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Specs Black Diamond... Osprey Mutant 38 Patagonia... Arc'teryx Alpha FL... Black Diamond...
Measured Volume (liters) 52 37 35 34 29
Measured Weight (pounds) 2.6 2.84 1.95 1.47 1.09
Measured Weight (grams) 1180.4 1288.2 884.5 667.38 496.1
Weight-To-Volume Ratio (grams per liter) 22.70 34.82 25.27 19.63 17.11
Frame Type Removable frame sheet doubles as bivy pad Inner framesheet with aluminum stays None Rigid, formed back panel Foam pad
Fabric 210D nylon ripstop, 420D nylon 210D nylon with 420HD nylon packcloth on bottom 210D cordura N400r-AC2 nylon 6 ripstop Dynex ripstop
Pockets 2 zippered pockets in lid 1 zippered lid 1 zippered lid, 1 small zippered internal 1 front zippered 1 main compartment, 1 waterproof top lid, 1 internal zippered
Hip belt Yes - removable Yes - reverse wrap hybrid EVA foam w/ gear loops and ice clipper holsters Yes Yes - webbing hip belt Yes - removable webbing belt
Removable Suspension Padding? Removable framesheet, stays, and removable foam pad Removable framesheet and/or dual stays Yes No Yes
Lid? Yes - removable Yes - removable with stowable FlapJacket for lidless use Yes, attached No Yes - removable
Hydration System Compatible? Yes, internal pouch for bladder Yes, internal pouch with buckled hanging loop No No Yes

Our Analysis and Test Results

Performance Comparison


The Speed 50 is a highly versatile mountaineering pack — a true "Pack-of-all-Trades." As such, it is a master of none and has some compromises, but it is a solid performer that can truly do it all.

Approaching the SW Ridge of Mt. Francis near Denali basecamp in the Alaska Range.
Approaching the SW Ridge of Mt. Francis near Denali basecamp in the Alaska Range.

Weight-To-Volume Ratio


The Speed 50 performed respectfully in our weight to volume ratio test. The pack advertises a volume of 50 liters, but we measured 52 liters of functional volume in the main compartment — a great volume for a pack that weighs three pounds.

The Speed 50 gobbled up all of our gear for a long weekend of alpine climbing.
The Speed 50 gobbled up all of our gear for a long weekend of alpine climbing.

Black Diamond achieves this lightweight by keeping the pack very simple and streamlined, as well as using relatively lightweight materials. This pack is a workhorse — dependable, functional, and light enough to edge out the competition. Its excellent performance in this metric made it an easy and obvious choice for a wide range of mountain activities. We used this pack for summer mountaineering, cragging, as well as backcountry skiing. We even took this pack to Alaska and hauled a sled around for a few weeks — and it was up to each and every task, shifting gears with us from long endurance hauls to steep technical rock and ice climbs.

Comfort


This pack is not an uncomfortable pack, but it is not one of the most comfortable in this review. The comfort bar was set exceptionally high in this review with the Osprey Mutant 38 and 52, the Arc'teryx Alpha FL, the Patagonia Ascensionist, and the Hyperlite Ice packs.


With those packs scoring above this one in our side-by-side comfort tests with our physical therapist, as well as in our field tests, the Speed 50 was quickly bumped down in the ratings — earning a more average score in this category. But average is a fitting classification for this pack. It is not mind-blowing in any category, but it is rock solid in every category.

Scouting a route up the Gulkana Glacier in the eastern Alaska Range for the University of Alaska  Fairbanks Girls On Ice program.
Scouting a route up the Gulkana Glacier in the eastern Alaska Range for the University of Alaska, Fairbanks Girls On Ice program.

We like the firm and wide hip belt on this pack, and its thin profile. The back panel is relatively flat, similar to the designs we love in the Arc'teryx Alpha FL 45 and the Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Ice pack. The main detraction from comfort comes from the larger volume of this pack. When we compare it to our top contenders for comfort, the Mutant, Alpha, and Hyperlite, we quickly see one significant difference — the diameter of the pack.

The Mutant is only a 38-liter pack, so it is narrower overall. The Alpha, also essentially a 30-something liter pack, is also forcibly narrower. At 50 liters of volume, the Hyperlite 3400 would seem to be the best pack to compare with the Speed 50, but that is still not quite the case because Hyperlite designed its extra volume to go upward. This makes the Ice Pack look like a skyscraper on your back when it is overstuffed, meaning it is still similarly narrow in shape.

Finally, there is the Osprey Mutant 52. This is our top recommendation for packs in the 50 liter size range due to its climbing comfort, versatility, features, and durability. This pack climbs and carries remarkably well, setting a new, high bar for comfort on bigger and longer objectives.

So it would seem we are finding a theme in the comfort department—narrower or more slender packs are most comfortable because they keep the load closer to your back. This makes a lot of intuitive sense. The Speed 50 is more of a short-and-squat design, and we could feel the larger diameter of the pack pull out from our center of gravity more noticeably than the other, slender packs. Even the load lifter straps on this pack couldn't bring the wider load in close enough to rival the comfort of our winners, the Mutant, Alpha, and Hyperlite.

The Mission 75 was the most similar pack in this review. It is 25 liters bigger, and while it pares down well for a summit push, it can be quite uncomfortable when overloaded.

The Speed 50 was a great pack for a weeklong basecamping trip with Girls On Ice on the Gulkana Glacier in the east Alaska Range
The Speed 50 was a great pack for a weeklong basecamping trip with Girls On Ice on the Gulkana Glacier in the east Alaska Range

Durability


Another middle of the road performance from the Speed 50 in the durability department. We encountered no issues with the pack, just the normal scuffing of fabric. We liked the reinforced bottom as we have a bad habit of dropping our pack on rough ground.


Again the Speed achieved average marks in this category not out of poor performance, but because it is average, and did not have any noticeable features which gave it a higher score. For example, the flexible fabric in the Mutants 38 and 52 improved their durability, especially when overstuffed. And the Alpha has perhaps the most confidence inspiring fabric in this review. The Mission 75 is also a step up in the Durability metric, without major cost to weight-per-volume.

Scraping the Black Diamond Speed 40 on low 5th class terrain with a bivy kit and food for two days.
Scraping the Black Diamond Speed 40 on low 5th class terrain with a bivy kit and food for two days.

The Speed 50 is made of both 210 and 420 denier nylon, similar to the expedition packs in the review; however, the expedition packs had much more reinforcement and wider straps, so they scored well above average for durability. The metrics shake out the pros and cons of this extra focus on strength in expedition packs, however, so while the Speed 50 might fall behind in overall durability, it picks up favor in the versatility and weight-to-volume metrics.

Versatility


The Speed 50 performed above average in the versatility metric. We carried skis A-frame for steep skiing. We scratched up alpine rock climbs. We dragged sleds in Alaska. We carried a rack of triple cams in the desert. This pack is up for just about anything.


Preparing clients for a Denali Expedition in April on Mount Rainier. The Speed 50 hauls a sled comfortably  by looping the leash under the hip belt.
Preparing clients for a Denali Expedition in April on Mount Rainier. The Speed 50 hauls a sled comfortably, by looping the leash under the hip belt.

The size is ideal for most trips 3-5 days long, but it is also simple and light enough to be stripped down for a fast-and-light summit push. We would often remove the lid of the pack, or stuff it inside the main compartment, to make the competitor even more compact.

The Mission 75 is a strong competitor for the Speed 50 in terms of Versatility. It does everything the Speed pack does, but it carries more gear.

Features


Simple is a great theme for a backpack—and the Speed 50 blends simplicity and functionality well. As noted above, this pack is up for a multitude of climbing tasks, due to its simple, straightforward, and well-thought-out features.


It scored higher than many comparable packs in this metric, more for its simplicity and utility than because it had more features. If you like your pack to have a lot of features, check out the Osprey Mutant. But if you want something clean and straightforward, the Speed is a wonderful choice.

The top side straps slide through as one continuous piece of webbing from one side of the pack to the other. This made adjustments on-the-fly easy  but sometimes could create excess slack on one side or the other.
The top side straps slide through as one continuous piece of webbing from one side of the pack to the other. This made adjustments on-the-fly easy, but sometimes could create excess slack on one side or the other.

Best Applications


The Speed 50 is at home in a variety of mountain environments. We loved using this pack on multi-day spring ski tours — it packs down small and carries securely for skiing through variable conditions. It holds up to the dry and dusty desert — and its cactus and sharp rocks. It is ideal for 3+ day trips in the mountains where you drop gear at a high camp and race to the summit with light packs. The only place we wouldn't want to take this pack is on steep multi-pitch rock climbs, but if you had to, you could haul the pack up a pitch or two, and it would get scuffed up on the rock, but it would arrive intact at the anchor.

Heading on to the Pika Glacier for some alpine climbing in Little Switzerland of the Alaska Range.
Heading on to the Pika Glacier for some alpine climbing in Little Switzerland of the Alaska Range.

If you want an affordable pack that really can go anywhere you want it to go, the Speed 50 is up for the challenge. Many Speed enthusiasts even have two or three models, including the Speed 22, 30, or 40. We think this model is best suited to 40-liter capacities or less—if you want more than that, consider the Mission series.

Value


At $189, the Speed 50 is a solid value. The price has been beaten by the Osprey Mutant 38 and Patagonia Ascensionist. The Speed, however, is a simple pack that will fit a bit more gear than the Mutant and Ascensionist, so this is a great pack for the mountain generalist. To pull of 3-5 day trips using the Mutant, you'll need an efficient and lightweight kit. The Speed 50, with a bit more volume, is more forgiving. As such, this pack is likely to carry you through a broader range of activities without forcing you to think twice about every item you pack into it.

This pack is one of the most likely candidates in this review to be a "quiver-of-one" backpack—and scores well for value.

Conclusion


The Black Diamond Speed 50 is a very common and popular pack. We would pull this one out for a broad range of activities, from cragging to ice climbing to mini expeditions dragging sleds and spring ski mountaineering. If we were to have one pack to do everything we like to do, this is likely the one.

Robin Pendery rocking the Speed 50 on Mount Rainier.
Robin Pendery rocking the Speed 50 on Mount Rainier.


Lyra Pierotti